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Do you shoot "Raw" or "Jpeg"
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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 376133" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p><strong>re: Do you shoot "Raw" or "Jpeg"</strong></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>No one says good results are impossible with JPG. But certainly it is not nearly as likely as Raw. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> (Raw, and a little attention). JPG seems the hard way. Been there, done that. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> No going back now.</p><p></p><p>It seems a good bet that the Olympic photogs are likely better and more experienced than most of us (for sure those of us asking this question). At the Olympics or other sports venues, they have fixed locations, shooting fixed scenes. They likely bring some WB gear (white cards, etc) with them, and have ample early time to take many test shots and get everything adjusted in a professional way. Then they can just repeat it for the duration of that event. Their lab can work on mistakes if they don't have alternate shots. </p><p></p><p> But not everyone does it that way. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>I do some of that when in fixed locations (at least exposure), but for walk-around snapshots, they only get one frame. Which is normally halfway close, but exposure and WB can always be improved in Raw (not to mention in extremes, also distortion, noise, vignetting, etc, etc - some of it is like magic). </p><p></p><p>Setting the one Daylight WB value does not cover clouds and shade and sunsets, etc. Flash tubes vary color with power level, so there is no one correct value. Incandescent varies with bulb, and power of bulb, and type of bulb. Instead of spending much time trying to get WB correct (the camera has very crude tools for this), it is tremendously easier, faster, and better to ignore it, and just correct it after we can actually see it. Then we know what we are doing, and can see what we will get. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>If we don't care, then we can use Auto WB. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 376133, member: 12496"] [b]re: Do you shoot "Raw" or "Jpeg"[/b] No one says good results are impossible with JPG. But certainly it is not nearly as likely as Raw. :) (Raw, and a little attention). JPG seems the hard way. Been there, done that. :) No going back now. It seems a good bet that the Olympic photogs are likely better and more experienced than most of us (for sure those of us asking this question). At the Olympics or other sports venues, they have fixed locations, shooting fixed scenes. They likely bring some WB gear (white cards, etc) with them, and have ample early time to take many test shots and get everything adjusted in a professional way. Then they can just repeat it for the duration of that event. Their lab can work on mistakes if they don't have alternate shots. But not everyone does it that way. :) I do some of that when in fixed locations (at least exposure), but for walk-around snapshots, they only get one frame. Which is normally halfway close, but exposure and WB can always be improved in Raw (not to mention in extremes, also distortion, noise, vignetting, etc, etc - some of it is like magic). Setting the one Daylight WB value does not cover clouds and shade and sunsets, etc. Flash tubes vary color with power level, so there is no one correct value. Incandescent varies with bulb, and power of bulb, and type of bulb. Instead of spending much time trying to get WB correct (the camera has very crude tools for this), it is tremendously easier, faster, and better to ignore it, and just correct it after we can actually see it. Then we know what we are doing, and can see what we will get. :) If we don't care, then we can use Auto WB. :) [/QUOTE]
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