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Do You Really Need HDR When You Have High Dynamic Range?
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<blockquote data-quote="BackdoorArts" data-source="post: 291662" data-attributes="member: 9240"><p><strong>All That Said, You Can Still Go HDR</strong></p><p></p><p>If you're not convinced, know that you can still go with HDR even though you only have the one image.</p><p><em></em></p><p><em>Step 1 - Import to Lightroom</em></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]82717[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>Step 2</em> - <em>Create as many Virtual Copies as you would like bracketed exposures</em></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]82718[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]82719[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>Step 3 - In the Develop Module, change the exposure values to each the virtual images to the +/- bracketed amounts, in this case -4, -2, +2, +4</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>[ATTACH=full]82720[/ATTACH]</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>[ATTACH=full]82721[/ATTACH]</em></p><p><em></em></p><p></p><p><em>Step 4 - Send the images to your HDR Software as you would normally</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>[ATTACH=full]82722[/ATTACH]</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em></em>OK, from here I can only be specific with HDR Efex Pro 2. If you use something else you will need to figure out how to adjust the exposure information so that the software treats it correctly.</p><p><em></em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>Step 5 - Fool the software into thinking that they are bracketed exposures by adjusting the EV values (or metadata, if applicable - may need to do this prior to step 4). </em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>[ATTACH=full]82723[/ATTACH]</em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>[ATTACH=full]82724[/ATTACH]</em></p><p><em></em></p><p>(Note - don't worry about what the preview looks like. I could have also unchecked the Ghost Reduction and CA buttons, but it doesn't hurt - that I know of)</p><p></p><p></p><p><em>Step 6 - Have at it in the HDR Program. </em></p><p><em></em></p><p><em>[ATTACH=full]82725[/ATTACH]</em></p><p><em></em></p><p></p><p></p><p>If you'll compare the last image, to which I applied the exact same preset as I did in the single image tone map in the original post, you can see that you have a much more natural looking image straight out of the box. I actually prefer this method to single image tone mapping most of the time as it will look less "flat" and more natural. But if you like the flattened look of an HDR image then the single image tone map may be better for you.</p><p></p><p></p><p><strong><em>One More Thing!!! You Can Fake Bigger Bracket Series!!!</em></strong></p><p></p><p>For folks with cameras that will only do 3 exposure brackets, if you shoot a 3 exposure series at +/-3EV, you can then use this technique to create 2 Virtual Copies of each image, adjust them to +/-1EV from the original image, and create a 9 exposure bracket series at 1EV increments (or if you go at +/-2EV on the original series then go +/-0.7 on each of the copies, etc.). </p><p></p><p><em>This will work with just about <u>any</u></em> <em>Nikon, even those D40's and D60's, since they should all be able to support that level of adjustment.</em></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BackdoorArts, post: 291662, member: 9240"] [B]All That Said, You Can Still Go HDR[/B] If you're not convinced, know that you can still go with HDR even though you only have the one image. [I] Step 1 - Import to Lightroom[/I] [ATTACH type="full" width="60%"]82717._xfImport[/ATTACH] [I] Step 2[/I] - [I]Create as many Virtual Copies as you would like bracketed exposures[/I] [ATTACH type="full" width="60%"]82718._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" width="60%"]82719._xfImport[/ATTACH] [I] Step 3 - In the Develop Module, change the exposure values to each the virtual images to the +/- bracketed amounts, in this case -4, -2, +2, +4 [ATTACH type="full" width="60%"]82720._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" width="60%"]82721._xfImport[/ATTACH] [/I] [I]Step 4 - Send the images to your HDR Software as you would normally [ATTACH type="full" width="60%"]82722._xfImport[/ATTACH] [/I]OK, from here I can only be specific with HDR Efex Pro 2. If you use something else you will need to figure out how to adjust the exposure information so that the software treats it correctly. [I] Step 5 - Fool the software into thinking that they are bracketed exposures by adjusting the EV values (or metadata, if applicable - may need to do this prior to step 4). [ATTACH type="full" width="60%"]82723._xfImport[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" width="60%"]82724._xfImport[/ATTACH] [/I] (Note - don't worry about what the preview looks like. I could have also unchecked the Ghost Reduction and CA buttons, but it doesn't hurt - that I know of) [I]Step 6 - Have at it in the HDR Program. [ATTACH type="full" width="60%"]82725._xfImport[/ATTACH] [/I] If you'll compare the last image, to which I applied the exact same preset as I did in the single image tone map in the original post, you can see that you have a much more natural looking image straight out of the box. I actually prefer this method to single image tone mapping most of the time as it will look less "flat" and more natural. But if you like the flattened look of an HDR image then the single image tone map may be better for you. [B][I]One More Thing!!! You Can Fake Bigger Bracket Series!!![/I][/B] For folks with cameras that will only do 3 exposure brackets, if you shoot a 3 exposure series at +/-3EV, you can then use this technique to create 2 Virtual Copies of each image, adjust them to +/-1EV from the original image, and create a 9 exposure bracket series at 1EV increments (or if you go at +/-2EV on the original series then go +/-0.7 on each of the copies, etc.). [I]This will work with just about [U]any[/U][/I] [I]Nikon, even those D40's and D60's, since they should all be able to support that level of adjustment.[/I] [/QUOTE]
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Do You Really Need HDR When You Have High Dynamic Range?
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