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<blockquote data-quote="hark" data-source="post: 820303" data-attributes="member: 13196"><p>I have 2 of the Nikon 24-120mm f/4 VR lenses. The first one was originally a camera store's lens rental that I purchased in 2018 so it already had mileage on it. I think it is now experiencing some issues with sticky aperture blades not stopping down or stopping down too far because of exposure issues. It is the lens I use the most. The second Nikon 24-120mm f/4 VR came with the D750 body/lens combo when it went on a ridiculous sale price before being discontinued. I need to start using it.</p><p></p><p>I also have a Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 (no vibration reduction) lens which is quite sharp but has onion skin bokeh. When I switched to the 24-120mm, I've become so accustomed to the extra reach over the limitations of the 24-70mm that I would miss the benefit of zooming out to 120mm.</p><p></p><p>So I have a question ... are you leaving your VR turned on when you power down your body? And are you leaving your body on when removing the SD cards? The only time I left my VR on was by accident when powering off with a Nikon 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 lens attached. My D750 suddenly went into ERR with the mirror locking up. I've had intermittent CPU issues ever since. Nikon says to turn off VR before turning off a body (and make sure the VR isn't engaged when flicking the switch to OFF) so I've always tried to stick with that. And I only remove cards when my bodies are turned off. Maybe try turning off your VR and see what happens. By the way, due to the CPU issue I have now, I <strong>always</strong> make sure the top screen LCD goes into standby when powering off all of my bodies. That seems to be the only thing that helps my D750 from having the mirror lock up issue on the first shutter actuation of the day.</p><p></p><p>Have you tried turning off the VR and doing the electrical reset that [USER=48633]@Peter7100[/USER] shared with us a while back and see if that helps at all? I used that technique on a D7200 when the shutter actuation button must have gotten a little bit of snow in it causing the actuation button to stop Auto Focusing. The process worked like a charm and haven't had any issues since.</p><p></p><p>Good luck with whatever you decide, Jeff!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="hark, post: 820303, member: 13196"] I have 2 of the Nikon 24-120mm f/4 VR lenses. The first one was originally a camera store's lens rental that I purchased in 2018 so it already had mileage on it. I think it is now experiencing some issues with sticky aperture blades not stopping down or stopping down too far because of exposure issues. It is the lens I use the most. The second Nikon 24-120mm f/4 VR came with the D750 body/lens combo when it went on a ridiculous sale price before being discontinued. I need to start using it. I also have a Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 (no vibration reduction) lens which is quite sharp but has onion skin bokeh. When I switched to the 24-120mm, I've become so accustomed to the extra reach over the limitations of the 24-70mm that I would miss the benefit of zooming out to 120mm. So I have a question ... are you leaving your VR turned on when you power down your body? And are you leaving your body on when removing the SD cards? The only time I left my VR on was by accident when powering off with a Nikon 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 lens attached. My D750 suddenly went into ERR with the mirror locking up. I've had intermittent CPU issues ever since. Nikon says to turn off VR before turning off a body (and make sure the VR isn't engaged when flicking the switch to OFF) so I've always tried to stick with that. And I only remove cards when my bodies are turned off. Maybe try turning off your VR and see what happens. By the way, due to the CPU issue I have now, I [B]always[/B] make sure the top screen LCD goes into standby when powering off all of my bodies. That seems to be the only thing that helps my D750 from having the mirror lock up issue on the first shutter actuation of the day. Have you tried turning off the VR and doing the electrical reset that [USER=48633]@Peter7100[/USER] shared with us a while back and see if that helps at all? I used that technique on a D7200 when the shutter actuation button must have gotten a little bit of snow in it causing the actuation button to stop Auto Focusing. The process worked like a charm and haven't had any issues since. Good luck with whatever you decide, Jeff! [/QUOTE]
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