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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 363076" data-attributes="member: 12496">My own notion is there are no special dragonfly settings.&nbsp; <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile&nbsp; &nbsp; :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />&nbsp; &nbsp; And without experimenting, I can't answer specifically.&nbsp;&nbsp; 1.5m is about 5 five feet, and 300 mm DX would have a field of view width of 4.8 inches there, so I suspect you are at 300 mm.That 1.5m is pretty much the absolute closest focus the 70-300 can do.&nbsp;&nbsp; If you need the subject closer and&nbsp; larger, you could add a &quot;close up filter&quot; to the front lens threads, to make it focus closer, therefore to see a larger subject in a more narrow view.&nbsp; Sometimes called &quot;Close up Lens&quot;, but it is just a simple magnifying glass attached to front of lens.&nbsp;&nbsp; It is not the best optical situation (macro lenses are better, but they lose the 300mm benefit).&nbsp; Close up filters are in two classes, cheap single element models, and more expensive double element models (maybe $100 class, with more correction, less color fringing, etc).&nbsp;&nbsp; The Canon 500D closeup filter is a double element, and very well regarded. Not sure it is available in 67mm thread size?&nbsp;&nbsp; You have to stop down considerably with these closeup filters (to keep frame edges sharp), so if you have enough light, I'd start at f/16 or f/22 for this special case (with or without the close up filter).&nbsp;&nbsp; Stopping down is greater depth of field (greater zone range actually in focus), and it better corrects the optical issues of the closeup lens.But clear tip to tip is the major issue, its never that easy up close.&nbsp; It is more about procedure than gear.&nbsp; Your camera angle should position itself so tip to tip wings are in one plane at the same distance everywhere, one focus distance for all the wing span. That's the only way to get it all sharp, up if very close.&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; Stopped down aperture is the way to try, but a proper camera angle is important.The 300 mm lens offers to f/40, which is extreme (much less so at 300 mm), but it is there for that purpose. f/40 will require a lot more light (four fstops more than f/10.&nbsp; So high ISO or shutter speed will go&nbsp; to slow), so you may need a close flash to do it.&nbsp; Such magnification efforts&nbsp; are not really point&amp;shoot, it is something we learn to deal with.&nbsp;&nbsp; First day will not be the best day.&nbsp; <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile&nbsp; &nbsp; :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />I'd say experiment with f/16 to f/40, pick what you like.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 363076, member: 12496"] My own notion is there are no special dragonfly settings. :) And without experimenting, I can't answer specifically. 1.5m is about 5 five feet, and 300 mm DX would have a field of view width of 4.8 inches there, so I suspect you are at 300 mm. That 1.5m is pretty much the absolute closest focus the 70-300 can do. If you need the subject closer and larger, you could add a "close up filter" to the front lens threads, to make it focus closer, therefore to see a larger subject in a more narrow view. Sometimes called "Close up Lens", but it is just a simple magnifying glass attached to front of lens. It is not the best optical situation (macro lenses are better, but they lose the 300mm benefit). Close up filters are in two classes, cheap single element models, and more expensive double element models (maybe $100 class, with more correction, less color fringing, etc). The Canon 500D closeup filter is a double element, and very well regarded. Not sure it is available in 67mm thread size? You have to stop down considerably with these closeup filters (to keep frame edges sharp), so if you have enough light, I'd start at f/16 or f/22 for this special case (with or without the close up filter). Stopping down is greater depth of field (greater zone range actually in focus), and it better corrects the optical issues of the closeup lens. But clear tip to tip is the major issue, its never that easy up close. It is more about procedure than gear. Your camera angle should position itself so tip to tip wings are in one plane at the same distance everywhere, one focus distance for all the wing span. That's the only way to get it all sharp, up if very close. Stopped down aperture is the way to try, but a proper camera angle is important. The 300 mm lens offers to f/40, which is extreme (much less so at 300 mm), but it is there for that purpose. [B]f/40 will require a lot more light[/B] (four fstops more than f/10. So high ISO or shutter speed will go to slow), so you may need a close flash to do it. Such magnification efforts are not really point&shoot, it is something we learn to deal with. First day will not be the best day. :) I'd say experiment with f/16 to f/40, pick what you like. [/QUOTE]

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