Depth of Field Calculator

Kingyo

Senior Member
I take a lot of landscape images and am interested in knowing if anyone has come up with a quick and (not so ) dirty method for determining dof (near/far) relative to various focal lengths on the 5200. I'm familiar with the on-line calculators, but I don't wish to use a phone or tablet in the field to view an app. Something like a movable "compass card" giving the various combinations might work well. Or, even a 'cheat sheet' would be nice. I realize there are many factors involved such as, focal length, f stop and subject distance as well as CoC value etc.

Just thought I'd ask, thanks in advance.
 

Fred Kingston_RIP

Senior Member
Older lenses used to have a DOF scale on them that you could manually focus to... but alas, they won't work with that camera. In fact, without a DOF preview on that camera, it's even more difficult... Your best bet is to understand the DOF of your lenses Fstop, prefocus on a specific object within the same plane as your intended subject... and go from there... You can also lookup the parameters on a DOF app in a smart phone, and pre-set your camera... You can also make your own cheat sheet using trial and error, or a DOF app. for your specific lenses... I find shooting landscapes, I usually end up with f11+ and infinity...
 

singlerosa_RIP

Senior Member
For some reason, OP doesn't want to use a smartphone app. ??? I can't imagine a cheat sheet that would include all apertures, focal lengths and distances on it. It'd almost have to be on a computer! :)
 

hark

Administrator
Staff member
Super Mod
Contributor
I realize there are many factors involved such as, focal length, f stop and subject distance as well as CoC value etc.

Unless you use some type of app, it's really difficult to know the exact DOF. There are some general things to keep in mind:

1. Wide angle lenses tend to have a greater DOF when shot under the same circumstances as a telephoto lens. This is due to the fact that the diameter of apertures on wide angle lenses are smaller than telephoto lenses. The larger the diameter of the aperture opening can yield a shallower DOF (again, the distance from you to the subject and from the subject to the background will factor into the equation).
2. The closer you are to your subject, the shallower DOF if you choose a wider aperture (and the distance between your subject and the background will yield different results).
3. The further your subject is from the background can affect DOF but it depends on the focal length and aperture you choose.

There are so many variables to consider that it would be difficult to come up with a cheat sheet that covers a variety of focal lengths, apertures, and distance.
 

cwgrizz

Senior Member
Challenge Team
Somebody needs to come up with a (for lack of better terms) wheel with two or three separate wheels with slots so numbers will show through for different settings or a slide rule type of device where the slide could be set and have the different DOF results. Something similar to what was on the older lenses only on a set of wheels or a slide rule setup. I wouldn't have a clue how to begin setting it up, but in my mind it seems somewhat doable. Ha!
 
Somebody needs to come up with a (for lack of better terms) wheel with two or three separate wheels with slots so numbers will show through for different settings or a slide rule type of device where the slide could be set and have the different DOF results. Something similar to what was on the older lenses only on a set of wheels or a slide rule setup. I wouldn't have a clue how to begin setting it up, but in my mind it seems somewhat doable. Ha!

that is what the iPhone app is for. It is always in your pocket
 
Yep, I get that, but the OP was saying he didn't want to use an APP. Why?? I don't know, but hey, we all have reasons for doing things like we do. Ha!


All the variables would make it an impossible task. Every distance would change it. Every aperture would change it. Every zoom on the lens would change it. Just learning the theory would help. But a cheat sheet would never work.
 

Kingyo

Senior Member
Reason why I don't want to use an app is simple, I don't have a cell phone. Okay, now that that's out there and I've admitted to living under a bridge, I'd still like to try and get a bit closer, a bit faster re dof. I like the idea of a card calculator of some sort, ie, the 'wheel within a wheel' as was said earlier. Take a look at the attached link, and in case it' s not hot, just go to B&H Photo and search for "Linholf DOF". They actually have some cards for medium format cameras etc., but they're not cheap. (About a hundred bucks). Oh well, guess I'll just have to become more familiar with my lenses and that means shooting more, which is a good thing.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/sear...Search=yes&sts=ma&typedValue=&Top+Nav-Search=
 

singlerosa_RIP

Senior Member
While you might not have a cell phone, you obviously have a computer. You might consider downloading a DOF app on your computer and playing around with it. I've had access (PC and smartphone) to these apps for 10+ years and have never used one in the field. I do, however, refer to it on occasion prior to a shoot.
 

cwgrizz

Senior Member
Challenge Team
@Kingyo What you posted at B&H was similar to what I had envisioned in my previous post. Oh, and don't feel bad about not having a cell phone. In some cases it is kind of nice to not have one. I also live under a rock (actually just out in the middle of nowhere). My internet service is so bad that at times it is almost non-existent (WigWam Smoke Signals) Ha! The suggestions given by all were only trying to help with the knowledge they had for the "best" options. Now that we know more, it is probably your best bet to get familiar with how DOF is affected by the different shooting settings. With time and playing around with it, you should be able to get enough experience to achieve the results you want. I think it can work in the same way that some have mastered using their off camera flashes in manual modes and having a good idea of what settings they need for different situations. Of course this is until you can find a chart or dial wheel for the various lenses you own.

ADDING: Singlerosa post is also good for your learning experience.
 

rocketman122

Senior Member
you remind me of me who tried to geek out and sweat the small details when I started, like the lens cap savers straps that connected to the lens. but that was in the film days. I think instead of paying $110, just shoot. using a dof calculator is no better then shooting and chimping. in time you will know what needs to be in focus and what your lenses deliver. landscapes f/8 and up, portraits, f/4 and down. and so forth. all pros chimp and no pro uses a dof calculator. and by pro I mean gets paid and is high level cause there are many shitty pros who get paid.

and truthfully, dof calculators are not accurate . youd think a 15mm fisheye had endless dof but in reality it doesnt. I even had the rokinon 8mm 3.5 and if I missed by a foot the image was very clearly off. in my opinion, from experience, unnecessary. focus on the shooting composition and lighting, including flash. learn to mix ambient light and flash. dof is pety stuff.

in weddings I shoot groups with my 28-70 at f/4.5 (at night) and theres this strange phenomenon that the bigger the group gets people start creating a circle. even if I shoot at f/11 they still wont all be in focus at 28mm. dof matters for little. in time you will know what you need. shoot and chimp. waste your money on things that really matter for better images.
 

RobV

Senior Member
I shot this first picture with a small aperture, mostly by not paying attention to my settings.
It occurred to me, so I went back and opened it up. I like the 2nd one better.

f22
36yWw49.jpg

f1.8
DirhDt8.jpg


DOF has been a part of my programming since H.S. shooting film in my SRT101. The "kit" lens mine came with was a 58mm 1:1.4.
 
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Kingyo

Senior Member
Chimp/Schimp, I'd rather get it right the first time (using a DOF calc or whatever). Doesn't make sense to take a shot then spend a lot of time trying to analyze it on a 3inch screen in broad daylight with the sun at your back. By the time you get it right, or at least right for you, and you're ready to shoot again, you've realized the sun has set.
 
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