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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D750
D750 exposure issues
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<blockquote data-quote="spb_stan" data-source="post: 618663" data-attributes="member: 43545"><p>Metering is a tool set, not some absolute, but Matrix does a pretty good job of balancing a lot of factors to guess what you intended. That also makes it less desirable when you know just what you want and know what the meter is actually telling you. In studio work or in difficult lighting, like stage or theater work, spot can be your friend. In the sample photos about, each seemed right bases on what the meter was seeing, which is not what the photographer sees of the overall scene.Spot is the most "accurate" for what it does, but what it does is not how a photographer expects unless he thinks like the meter. Visualize how the meter sees it and it becomes a very valuable tool and realizing spot means spot, not a scene, and its value reported is in proportion between full black and saturated white, middle grey which turns out to be 18% of full well white mixed with dead black is right in the middle of our perception of brightness. Take a can of white paint and dribble in and mix black until it looks half as bright, and note that you added black with 18% of the volume of the white paint. This is a crude thought experiment that describes what the spot meter is telling you. </p><p>So naturally, the meter will run you astray when the subject is supposed to be bright, like a sunny day brides white dress. If you went by the meter, it would tell you to lower exposure because it thinks the dress is too bright. So the image comes out dull grey. Next, take a photo of the groom in his deep black suit or tux. The meter tells you and the camera that it is way too dark so suggests/sets a few stops higher exposure. The image shows the suit a dull grey instead of rich deep black. The camera is not wrong, based on the simple instructions the meter goes by. That is where the photographer enters the picture, he knows the meter is showing a mid point so he knows he has to adjust exposure to compensate for the difference between middle grey and the intended brightness in an photo. So he dials in a couple stops higher exposure in the Triad, for the wedding dress and a few stops less exposure for the dark suit. Same with snow photos, always look grey unless compensated because you know the meter is telling the truth about what it sees, assuming it thinks middle grey is optimum. So you dial in more exposure by the amount you thing the scene is brighter than middle grey. Grey is not a color, it is an energy level of light.</p><p>There is an old classic book on exposure that explains it all in an easy to understand style called "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson It was written for film back in the day but has been updated to a 4th edition. Armed with an understanding of this essential element of photography makes everything seem simple.....it is. Once you understand exposure, any camera will do exactly as you intend. Every confusion has a foundation in not really understanding this core concept.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="spb_stan, post: 618663, member: 43545"] Metering is a tool set, not some absolute, but Matrix does a pretty good job of balancing a lot of factors to guess what you intended. That also makes it less desirable when you know just what you want and know what the meter is actually telling you. In studio work or in difficult lighting, like stage or theater work, spot can be your friend. In the sample photos about, each seemed right bases on what the meter was seeing, which is not what the photographer sees of the overall scene.Spot is the most "accurate" for what it does, but what it does is not how a photographer expects unless he thinks like the meter. Visualize how the meter sees it and it becomes a very valuable tool and realizing spot means spot, not a scene, and its value reported is in proportion between full black and saturated white, middle grey which turns out to be 18% of full well white mixed with dead black is right in the middle of our perception of brightness. Take a can of white paint and dribble in and mix black until it looks half as bright, and note that you added black with 18% of the volume of the white paint. This is a crude thought experiment that describes what the spot meter is telling you. So naturally, the meter will run you astray when the subject is supposed to be bright, like a sunny day brides white dress. If you went by the meter, it would tell you to lower exposure because it thinks the dress is too bright. So the image comes out dull grey. Next, take a photo of the groom in his deep black suit or tux. The meter tells you and the camera that it is way too dark so suggests/sets a few stops higher exposure. The image shows the suit a dull grey instead of rich deep black. The camera is not wrong, based on the simple instructions the meter goes by. That is where the photographer enters the picture, he knows the meter is showing a mid point so he knows he has to adjust exposure to compensate for the difference between middle grey and the intended brightness in an photo. So he dials in a couple stops higher exposure in the Triad, for the wedding dress and a few stops less exposure for the dark suit. Same with snow photos, always look grey unless compensated because you know the meter is telling the truth about what it sees, assuming it thinks middle grey is optimum. So you dial in more exposure by the amount you thing the scene is brighter than middle grey. Grey is not a color, it is an energy level of light. There is an old classic book on exposure that explains it all in an easy to understand style called "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson It was written for film back in the day but has been updated to a 4th edition. Armed with an understanding of this essential element of photography makes everything seem simple.....it is. Once you understand exposure, any camera will do exactly as you intend. Every confusion has a foundation in not really understanding this core concept. [/QUOTE]
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D750 exposure issues
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