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Nikon DSLR Cameras
Out of Production DSLRs
D700
D700 unreliable remote flash?
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<blockquote data-quote="daredevil123" data-source="post: 110931" data-attributes="member: 11958"><p>It seems you are using CLS wireless triggering which uses IR light to trigger the remote flashes. </p><p></p><p>A few points to note when using CLS:</p><p></p><p>1. Your commander (be it your pop up or master flash mounted on your camera) needs to be pointed in the general direction of where your remote flashes are. So, you shouldn't be pointing your commander flash upwards or have the remote flashes behind you.</p><p></p><p>2. On the side of every flash unit you can find a IR optical detector window. It looks like a blackened plastic circular window. For every remote flash, that windows needs to be pointed in the direction of where you are position with the commander.</p><p></p><p>3. CLS's range is not very far.</p><p></p><p>4. CLS needs line of sight.</p><p></p><p>5. In day time with strong good light, the range and reliability of CLS is severely compromised.</p><p></p><p>6. If you reduce the flash power of the Master flash in the Commander menu, you are only decreasing the power for the actual flash. It does not reduce the range of the CLS trigger. So if you set it at zero, it means it will not contribute to the flash exposure of the subject even though you can see a flash go off. That flash is for the pre-flash and for communications with the remote flashes. But the range of the CLS stays constant. </p><p></p><p>i will strongly suggest you consider some radio triggers. If you want to maintain TTL functionality with zone control you can check out:</p><p>a. Radiopoppers</p><p>b. Pocketwizards FlexTT5/MiniTT1/AC3 combo</p><p>c. Phottix Odin</p><p></p><p>If you just need TTL with no need for zone power control:</p><p>a. Pixel King</p><p>b. Pixel Knight</p><p>c. Phottix Strato TTL</p><p></p><p>For non-TTL (manual flash) triggers, there are a whole load of different options out there, and cheap too. </p><p></p><p>Hope this helps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="daredevil123, post: 110931, member: 11958"] It seems you are using CLS wireless triggering which uses IR light to trigger the remote flashes. A few points to note when using CLS: 1. Your commander (be it your pop up or master flash mounted on your camera) needs to be pointed in the general direction of where your remote flashes are. So, you shouldn't be pointing your commander flash upwards or have the remote flashes behind you. 2. On the side of every flash unit you can find a IR optical detector window. It looks like a blackened plastic circular window. For every remote flash, that windows needs to be pointed in the direction of where you are position with the commander. 3. CLS's range is not very far. 4. CLS needs line of sight. 5. In day time with strong good light, the range and reliability of CLS is severely compromised. 6. If you reduce the flash power of the Master flash in the Commander menu, you are only decreasing the power for the actual flash. It does not reduce the range of the CLS trigger. So if you set it at zero, it means it will not contribute to the flash exposure of the subject even though you can see a flash go off. That flash is for the pre-flash and for communications with the remote flashes. But the range of the CLS stays constant. i will strongly suggest you consider some radio triggers. If you want to maintain TTL functionality with zone control you can check out: a. Radiopoppers b. Pocketwizards FlexTT5/MiniTT1/AC3 combo c. Phottix Odin If you just need TTL with no need for zone power control: a. Pixel King b. Pixel Knight c. Phottix Strato TTL For non-TTL (manual flash) triggers, there are a whole load of different options out there, and cheap too. Hope this helps. [/QUOTE]
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Nikon DSLR Cameras
Out of Production DSLRs
D700
D700 unreliable remote flash?
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