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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Nikonitus" data-source="post: 84501" data-attributes="member: 10962">When I first entered the world of DSLR photography, which was all of 6 or 7 yrs ago (before that it was just pocket cameras), I was amazed at what was out there to be had and just how careful you had to be in making your choices, if you are on a budget like me and no doubt, many others. I was advised by my brother (40+ yrs of experience by comparison), not to fall into the traps he did on his learning curve so I got off on a relatively good footing, but, like any guy, I too thought I knew better at times and tried some of these cheaper lenses. Some of them did produce some almost stunning shots at times and even my brother agreed with me that they can surprise. However, at other times they can truly disappoint also, and yet even further times, you may not get to realize the best a lens can offer. I think the trouble is that cheaper lenses are just not made to perform to the highest levels and like in any other hobby, you can get the best and also get budget stuff, which is great for the consumer, but until you start getting better stuff, you may not realize just how good things can get. There are better lenses out there than what I have got but I too have a budget and although I wish I could get "Thee very best", unfortunately I have to be realistic. I just can't afford them...As far as barrelling and pincushioning goes, its so hard to truly get light coming through a circular lens onto a flat 2 dimensional surface (your sensor) without being distorted, as a matter of fact it's impossible, simply by physics. Lens curvature vs sensor placement is a matter of each manufacturers best guess or should I say best compromise. Light coming through a lens is of a 3 dimensional nature and so is the lens (element) itself. The sensor is 2 dimensional (flat) and something has to give, and you'll always get a certain amount of distortion, no matter how you adjust their placement in regards to each other. The distance between the sensors flat surface to parts of the lens differs in length from side to centre then back out to the other side of each surface so the image coming in has to crunch up or spread out, depending on the lens placement (or its focal length) and when you can adjust the focal length (as in zoom lenses), you are automatically shifting that relationship between glass and sensor so you get differring distortions... Barrelling mostly at lower focal and pincushioning at higher focal lengths,, mostly... Sometimes lenses are made to take advantage of this distortion,, lower focal length - wide angle of fisheye lenses...!!!I sort of just accept this distortion as a necessary evil,, and if I have to, Photosh*p is there to correct it. A lot of what you see in your final image is already digitally altered by the cameras software anyway. That's what firmware is all about... I no longer worry about it and believe that a little too much emphasis is placed on it, but then again, I'd hate to see it running rampant in all lenses - Compromise - there's always give on one hand and take on the other... That's the best way to do it...!!!I'm no expert though...</blockquote>

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