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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D500
D500 USED WITH FLASH AND AUTO-ISO : problems ???
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<blockquote data-quote="spb_stan" data-source="post: 636006" data-attributes="member: 43545"><p>This is a case where one just needs to experiment using a solid foundation of the Exposure Triad until it makes sense intuitively. Flash is simpler than you are trying to make it and a lot of assumptions are being made about what it SHOULD do versus what it actually does. The camera is pretty smart, very smart but it can't read your mind. The fewer variables permitted to be adjusted by the camera, the more any image will be as you set if for. Then any difference between what you set and your expectations can be seen and your expectations adjusted to closer fit what you told it to do. </p><p>Auto ISO and Auto WB, and any other auto function increases the deviation from what you took and what you expected.</p><p></p><p>Here is what I do in a little instant checklist:</p><p>What is my goal(mood of image, style, featured subject)</p><p>What do I want in exposure(High key, low key, realism etc)</p><p>Is the subject in optimum light, shadows, or do I need to fill or selectively illuminate)</p><p>Where is the scene light source coming from and what color temperature, and quality(quality is the ratio of light effective cross section to subject size...a bounce from a white rear wall and ceiling is a higher quality than a direct sun because although the sun is very large, its effective size is tiny and can be blocked by something smaller than the face. A closer light source would have a large cross section size) The answer to this one question might mean turning off the flash, or using multiple flash, gels, snoots etc</p><p>How isolated do I want the subject to me(isolation can by by tightness of shot,bokah or using low or high key to kill any detail of the background)</p><p>If shadows are to be filled by flash, where are new shadows going to be created and where to put the flash so shadows fall outside the frame or future crop.</p><p>How much action or movement needs to be frozen and what movement can be blurred(shutter dragging to increase room ambient light contribution for example can add motion blur to any background movement of streaks of light seen in background if very slow speeds are used to increase ambient contribution....even 1/6 sec shutter will work and still have subject sharp because subject illumination is mostly from the flash burst at 1/30,000 of a second or more.</p><p>Any scene or subject features to be minimized...a big nose or fleshy arms or pot belly or anything to be emphasised like bright blue eyes or striking hair style or color</p><p>How much ambient light should be captured and the ratio between ambient and subject brightness </p><p>And a few more variables that would be evaluated before making any settings or changes</p><p>Then set the camera, in manual mode and take the image.</p><p></p><p>Notice all these questions relate to the scene and not the camera. Those are the questions that need to be answered before even thinking about how to take the picture. </p><p>In manual mode all the question's answers are easy to satisfy in deliberate mode....what I call, manual mode.</p><p></p><p>This list seems long but I left out a few but they are just viewed and instantly answered without thinking with a little experience. If the same break down was down for getting from the driveway in your car to the nearest street corner the list would be 3 pages long. For a beginner driver it seems like too much is happening too fast and it seems overwhelming but after a week, it seems automatic, and with a few weeks very complex maneuvers getting from point A to point B is so automatic you can't even remember all the steps you took to get to the destination. </p><p>With photography, there are two basic modes, photography and snapshots. Snapshots are more a matter of faith, letting all the variables suprise us to see what we got after the camera did the deciding. When photography the result is the products of the photographers intentions. Both have their place but one is luck and the latter is deliberate...good or bad, it is what the photographer did. Flash photography is the same as any other deliberate photography but with the addition of a lot more control over the result. It is a very rare photo that is both successful and without augmented light control. You are entering this portion of photography where you have a much larger pallet of options to have an image that reflects your intent than regular ambient chance shooting.</p><p></p><p>It might seem overwhelming as it does to a beginning driver but with a little practice seeing the scene and deciding how you what the results to look, it becomes almost automatic. By adding an uncontrolled variable, like Auto ISO, the results are often not as you intended because the camera does not know what you intended and technically the camera might be right based on what it thinks you want, but is wrong. The camera is doing its job with the exposure, but it fails in guessing what you intended. If you don't want ISO to zoom up over a certain value, simple, don't let the camera make choices of ISO unless you have a way of convincing the camera of what you intend. I have not figured out how to convince the camera to guess my intentions unless I limit my intentions to those the camera prefers. That is what Auto modes are for, limiting your choices to those the camera prefers. With low light or darkness, or very bright light, what you want and what the camera prefers is often miles apart, neither is wrong, just different. In none of your shots with very high ISO was the exposure wrong, it did its job, for most casual shooters, that is a successful image. But you had other ideas that the camera did not know about.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="spb_stan, post: 636006, member: 43545"] This is a case where one just needs to experiment using a solid foundation of the Exposure Triad until it makes sense intuitively. Flash is simpler than you are trying to make it and a lot of assumptions are being made about what it SHOULD do versus what it actually does. The camera is pretty smart, very smart but it can't read your mind. The fewer variables permitted to be adjusted by the camera, the more any image will be as you set if for. Then any difference between what you set and your expectations can be seen and your expectations adjusted to closer fit what you told it to do. Auto ISO and Auto WB, and any other auto function increases the deviation from what you took and what you expected. Here is what I do in a little instant checklist: What is my goal(mood of image, style, featured subject) What do I want in exposure(High key, low key, realism etc) Is the subject in optimum light, shadows, or do I need to fill or selectively illuminate) Where is the scene light source coming from and what color temperature, and quality(quality is the ratio of light effective cross section to subject size...a bounce from a white rear wall and ceiling is a higher quality than a direct sun because although the sun is very large, its effective size is tiny and can be blocked by something smaller than the face. A closer light source would have a large cross section size) The answer to this one question might mean turning off the flash, or using multiple flash, gels, snoots etc How isolated do I want the subject to me(isolation can by by tightness of shot,bokah or using low or high key to kill any detail of the background) If shadows are to be filled by flash, where are new shadows going to be created and where to put the flash so shadows fall outside the frame or future crop. How much action or movement needs to be frozen and what movement can be blurred(shutter dragging to increase room ambient light contribution for example can add motion blur to any background movement of streaks of light seen in background if very slow speeds are used to increase ambient contribution....even 1/6 sec shutter will work and still have subject sharp because subject illumination is mostly from the flash burst at 1/30,000 of a second or more. Any scene or subject features to be minimized...a big nose or fleshy arms or pot belly or anything to be emphasised like bright blue eyes or striking hair style or color How much ambient light should be captured and the ratio between ambient and subject brightness And a few more variables that would be evaluated before making any settings or changes Then set the camera, in manual mode and take the image. Notice all these questions relate to the scene and not the camera. Those are the questions that need to be answered before even thinking about how to take the picture. In manual mode all the question's answers are easy to satisfy in deliberate mode....what I call, manual mode. This list seems long but I left out a few but they are just viewed and instantly answered without thinking with a little experience. If the same break down was down for getting from the driveway in your car to the nearest street corner the list would be 3 pages long. For a beginner driver it seems like too much is happening too fast and it seems overwhelming but after a week, it seems automatic, and with a few weeks very complex maneuvers getting from point A to point B is so automatic you can't even remember all the steps you took to get to the destination. With photography, there are two basic modes, photography and snapshots. Snapshots are more a matter of faith, letting all the variables suprise us to see what we got after the camera did the deciding. When photography the result is the products of the photographers intentions. Both have their place but one is luck and the latter is deliberate...good or bad, it is what the photographer did. Flash photography is the same as any other deliberate photography but with the addition of a lot more control over the result. It is a very rare photo that is both successful and without augmented light control. You are entering this portion of photography where you have a much larger pallet of options to have an image that reflects your intent than regular ambient chance shooting. It might seem overwhelming as it does to a beginning driver but with a little practice seeing the scene and deciding how you what the results to look, it becomes almost automatic. By adding an uncontrolled variable, like Auto ISO, the results are often not as you intended because the camera does not know what you intended and technically the camera might be right based on what it thinks you want, but is wrong. The camera is doing its job with the exposure, but it fails in guessing what you intended. If you don't want ISO to zoom up over a certain value, simple, don't let the camera make choices of ISO unless you have a way of convincing the camera of what you intend. I have not figured out how to convince the camera to guess my intentions unless I limit my intentions to those the camera prefers. That is what Auto modes are for, limiting your choices to those the camera prefers. With low light or darkness, or very bright light, what you want and what the camera prefers is often miles apart, neither is wrong, just different. In none of your shots with very high ISO was the exposure wrong, it did its job, for most casual shooters, that is a successful image. But you had other ideas that the camera did not know about. [/QUOTE]
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D500 USED WITH FLASH AND AUTO-ISO : problems ???
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