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Message: <blockquote data-quote="spb_stan" data-source="post: 635792" data-attributes="member: 43545">Good that there is progress. By manual we mean manual M for exposure AND fixed ISO, not Auto ISO when using flash. It is not needed or desired with flash. Believe it or not, manual everything is more intuitive and simpler. When in M mode and fixed ISO, pressing the shutter half way show focuses(unless you use the back AF-On button to start the focusing independent of the shutter release) the view finder meter displays. That is your whole bypass around using auto functions, that meter tells you the exposure with your current settings. Try it and see how you can move the indicator to either side of the center long mark which is centered optimum exposure. Try it with Matrix metering mode and look through the VF without the flash and adjust any combination of shutter and aperture when using a fixed ISO. As you know, speed needs to be appropriate for hand holding or subject movement and aperture is selected for the depth of field you desire, stopped down for scenes where both near and far need to be in focus and opened aperture for scenes that would benefit from shallow depth of field like portraits  where you want the subject in sharp focus but foreground and background with a creamy blur to have the subject appear very distinct from the background, a desirable feature of fast primes and 2.8 zooms.  Looking at the subject, you probably know whether you want it to appear part of the scene or isolated from the scene, so your decision which aperture to set will be for artistic reasons, and not for exposure since the flash will compensate for the light needed to expose the subject properly.  The shutter speed will be set with a few points in mind, speed of objects in the background( but not you subject because the flash will turn on and off much faster than any shutter setting you might choose, flash pulses are very short in duration.Try this set of experiments:Set the ISO to some low value, to optimise signal to noise ratio, say 100 ISO. if at night at home when trying this you will notice at that low ISO value, the meter will show underexposure. Take a shot, to verify that is it is under exposed by the number of stops shown on the meter. For this first experiment use 1/250 sec, and the widest(lowest aperture F number) and ISO 100. That is going to create an in door night time shot that is far under exposed. Now, mount the flash, set it to TTL mode. Take the shot again. The flash will try to exposure the subject under the focus point correctly.  But the background if a large room with be dark, or black. Now, decrease shutter speed to 1/125, and shoot again but notice where the meter indicates, it should be a little closer to center. Take that shot, and you will see the main subject is still the lit properly but the background is a little brighter, Kept experimenting with that shutter speed, lowering and watching the meter as it gets closer to the center and each shot, the background gets brighter but the subject stays the same, provided the meter shows under exposed. The difference between the scene exposure, indicated by the meter and the subject exposure the flash automatically adjusts itself, and the  the difference seen in the general scene background.  If you decrease the shutter so the meter read at the center, the shot will be over exposed because centered means correct exposure before flash fires, so when the fires, even on a very low power it is still too much when combined with the correct pre-flash exposure. With one simple setting change you can make the background fade into darkness or be equally exposed with the  subject. If the subject is overexposed, you can dial in a little Flash Exposure Compensation.  This method allow you to make simple setting changes for artistic reasons, which still getting full subject exposure.</blockquote>

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