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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D4/D4s
D4 (not S) vs D810
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<blockquote data-quote="aroy" data-source="post: 325363" data-attributes="member: 16090"><p>Regarding price. Wait for at least 4 months. The D810 prices should stabilize (and any bugs detected/rectified) to around $3,000/-. The D4 prices will remain stable as the body is preferred by professional photographers.</p><p></p><p>Regarding Lenses, this is what I have learnt from the net. It is not personal experience.</p><p></p><p></p><ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">35mm f1.4 Sigma art : Modern lense designed for High MP sensors.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">50mm f1.4 and f1.8 AF-D Nikkors : Not so great sharpness and CA is there. The modern Zeiss and Sigma are much better.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">105mm Micro Nikkor (non-VR) : No problem here, and excellent macro, but the Zeiss 135mm F2 APO which has practically no CA, is sharp even at F11, where most lenses give up due to diffraction.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">24-120mm f4 AF-D VRII Nikkor : No idea, but I do not hold zooms as high IQ glass. More of a convenience factor than IQ.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">70-200mm f2.8 AF-D VRII Nikkor: No idea, but I do not hold zooms as high IQ glass. More of a convenience factor than IQ.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">500mm f8 Tamron CAT : No idea.</li> </ol><p></p><p>Concerns</p><p></p><ol> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Camera shake is a personal issue. My hands shake a lot, so even 24MP is too much at times, but at times when it is steady, I have shot razor sharp at 1/15. Mostly I rely on high speed (1/500 or more) or on the flash to strobe.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Battery life is also dependent on usage patter4n. D3300 is supposed have a life of 700 shots, I rarely get more than 350, but I have never shot 350 in a day. In any case a spare battery(s) are a much better option than a grip, as you can keep them warm in cold climate, charge them when necessary and reduce a lot of weight.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">Ruggedness is in the eye of the beholder. If you are a sports photographer, shooting thousand or more shots per day in harsh environment and chances of the camera getting knocked about is high, then a rugged body is called for. Other wise with a little care the modern Polycarbonate body last a life time. In fact if you read the analysis on "Plastic" lenses and mounts by Lens Rental, metal bodies are more difficult to repair as it deforms and requires changing. In comtrast modern engineering plastics are resilient and absorb a lot of abuse (apart from being lighter and cheaper).</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ol">I prefer not to have them, especially if they drain the battery faster.</li> </ol></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="aroy, post: 325363, member: 16090"] Regarding price. Wait for at least 4 months. The D810 prices should stabilize (and any bugs detected/rectified) to around $3,000/-. The D4 prices will remain stable as the body is preferred by professional photographers. Regarding Lenses, this is what I have learnt from the net. It is not personal experience. [LIST=1] [*]35mm f1.4 Sigma art : Modern lense designed for High MP sensors. [*]50mm f1.4 and f1.8 AF-D Nikkors : Not so great sharpness and CA is there. The modern Zeiss and Sigma are much better. [*]105mm Micro Nikkor (non-VR) : No problem here, and excellent macro, but the Zeiss 135mm F2 APO which has practically no CA, is sharp even at F11, where most lenses give up due to diffraction. [*]24-120mm f4 AF-D VRII Nikkor : No idea, but I do not hold zooms as high IQ glass. More of a convenience factor than IQ. [*]70-200mm f2.8 AF-D VRII Nikkor: No idea, but I do not hold zooms as high IQ glass. More of a convenience factor than IQ. [*]500mm f8 Tamron CAT : No idea. [/LIST] Concerns [LIST=1] [*]Camera shake is a personal issue. My hands shake a lot, so even 24MP is too much at times, but at times when it is steady, I have shot razor sharp at 1/15. Mostly I rely on high speed (1/500 or more) or on the flash to strobe. [*]Battery life is also dependent on usage patter4n. D3300 is supposed have a life of 700 shots, I rarely get more than 350, but I have never shot 350 in a day. In any case a spare battery(s) are a much better option than a grip, as you can keep them warm in cold climate, charge them when necessary and reduce a lot of weight. [*]Ruggedness is in the eye of the beholder. If you are a sports photographer, shooting thousand or more shots per day in harsh environment and chances of the camera getting knocked about is high, then a rugged body is called for. Other wise with a little care the modern Polycarbonate body last a life time. In fact if you read the analysis on "Plastic" lenses and mounts by Lens Rental, metal bodies are more difficult to repair as it deforms and requires changing. In comtrast modern engineering plastics are resilient and absorb a lot of abuse (apart from being lighter and cheaper). [*]I prefer not to have them, especially if they drain the battery faster. [/LIST] [/QUOTE]
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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D4/D4s
D4 (not S) vs D810
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