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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D3400
D3400 with Nikon AF-S DX Micro NIKKOR 40mm f/2.8G - Live View manual focus?
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<blockquote data-quote="Clovishound" data-source="post: 842114" data-attributes="member: 50197"><p>The focus limiting is to keep the lens from "hunting" the full length of focus while in AF. Set it to full.</p><p></p><p>Focus stacking relies on a number of different images taken of the same subject while progressively advancing the focus point with overlapping depth of field. You then take the images and load them into a program that will stack, such as Photoshop. The program picks out the in focus bits and seamlessly (well usually) assembles them into a final image with much greater DOF than any of the individual images. </p><p></p><p>It doesn't matter the mechanism you use to get the individual images, as long as the focus overlaps sufficiently, and you don't have any major changes in composition. Many of the newer cameras have a focus stacking feature that will automatically take a certain number of images while advancing the focus point from near to far. When using this feature you must be in AF mode. While it may be possible to produce a manual focus stack with AF, it would be completely impractical IMO. </p><p></p><p>I actually do focus stacks manually, and handheld. I just pick a starting point, focus on that, take a shot and then progressively move my focus farther aft until I have covered the area I want in focus. I will sometimes then "back" my way out, taking a similar number of images in case something didn't go as planned in the first string. If need be, I can exclude images that cause issues, as long as I have sufficient coverage with other images. </p><p></p><p>It's actually a rather straightforward operation. The biggest issue is figuring out how much overlap you need. That will depend on your amount of magnification, and aperture. Lots of folks using the in camera feature will take a crazy amount of images. Sometimes they use as many as 100. I normally use around 6-15, although I normally use small apertures for greater DOF. This greatly reduces the number of images I need, but also can affect the look of the background. </p><p></p><p>Here is an example. The first image is a single shot. The second is a focus stack. I don't remember how many images I stacked, but I doubt it was over 10 and may have been as few as 3-5. Notice how the entire crab spider, as well as the majority of the plant is in focus in the second image. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]424975[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]424974[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Clovishound, post: 842114, member: 50197"] The focus limiting is to keep the lens from "hunting" the full length of focus while in AF. Set it to full. Focus stacking relies on a number of different images taken of the same subject while progressively advancing the focus point with overlapping depth of field. You then take the images and load them into a program that will stack, such as Photoshop. The program picks out the in focus bits and seamlessly (well usually) assembles them into a final image with much greater DOF than any of the individual images. It doesn't matter the mechanism you use to get the individual images, as long as the focus overlaps sufficiently, and you don't have any major changes in composition. Many of the newer cameras have a focus stacking feature that will automatically take a certain number of images while advancing the focus point from near to far. When using this feature you must be in AF mode. While it may be possible to produce a manual focus stack with AF, it would be completely impractical IMO. I actually do focus stacks manually, and handheld. I just pick a starting point, focus on that, take a shot and then progressively move my focus farther aft until I have covered the area I want in focus. I will sometimes then "back" my way out, taking a similar number of images in case something didn't go as planned in the first string. If need be, I can exclude images that cause issues, as long as I have sufficient coverage with other images. It's actually a rather straightforward operation. The biggest issue is figuring out how much overlap you need. That will depend on your amount of magnification, and aperture. Lots of folks using the in camera feature will take a crazy amount of images. Sometimes they use as many as 100. I normally use around 6-15, although I normally use small apertures for greater DOF. This greatly reduces the number of images I need, but also can affect the look of the background. Here is an example. The first image is a single shot. The second is a focus stack. I don't remember how many images I stacked, but I doubt it was over 10 and may have been as few as 3-5. Notice how the entire crab spider, as well as the majority of the plant is in focus in the second image. [ATTACH type="full"]424975[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]424974[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D3400
D3400 with Nikon AF-S DX Micro NIKKOR 40mm f/2.8G - Live View manual focus?
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