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D3200 Speedlight for Close/WideAngle nightclub photography?
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<blockquote data-quote="spb_stan" data-source="post: 617278" data-attributes="member: 43545"><p>What are you trying to achieve in shooting 1/4SS? Normally we use shutter dragging to get character of the entire scene, 1-2 stops below subject metering. If you are shooting so close, there is little room scene in the frame.</p><p>Get the larger flash and keep it off camera. I have a herd of SB900s but added a Yongnuo YN-568ex and was so impressed with it that I got 2 more. Using the YN-622n flash controller transceivers and a YN-622 TX commander, it solves any remote mounting or power control issues when using multiple lights. </p><p>I would suggest getting the Yn-568ex or other flash, about $99 in the US and use a diffuser like a mini softbox with a remote flash, meter for the room with slow shutter and use the softbox, hand held for subject illumination. Set the aperture and ISO so the room if 1-2 stops underexposed before tuning on the flash. The IR focus light on the YN-568 is brighter with more beams than my SB900's. Don't get too close to subjects with wide angle, the distortion can be very unflattering. Your camera has good low light DR so you can be safe increasing ISO to get the room ambient light. I always shoot in manual mode, it makes things more consistent and is easier. I shot in a club last night that was almost dead...my first visit there, nice upscale place and it was me and 12 girls and staff of about 30.....I guess it was an off night. I purposely wanted darker background to not make it obvious the place was dead, just enough background to suggest space. Here is an example f/2.8, 70mm, 1/125 ISO 800 (shutter was raised to drop ambient 2.5 stops) The SB900 and YN-568 are essentially interchangeable in this sort of shooting, but the Yongnuo is 1/7th the price. [ATTACH]252208[/ATTACH] </p><p></p><p>In a busy club, I shoot with drag shutter on a D800 or D7000, any of these cameras made in the last 8 years are fine for this sort of shooting. I usually use a 24-70 on fx or 17-55 on Dx, or 85 1.4 or better for clubs, the lower cost 1.8g version. Lens is not as critical as lighting, and the camera is not critical at all. A good all rounder for the Dx bodies is the 35 1.8g, sharp, low distortion and fast, light and cheap. I use a 24 1.4 sometimes or 70-200 2.8 but but the 70-200 is too heavy for one handed shooting, camera in right and, flash/modifier in the right. Your camera is perfect for one handed shooting.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="spb_stan, post: 617278, member: 43545"] What are you trying to achieve in shooting 1/4SS? Normally we use shutter dragging to get character of the entire scene, 1-2 stops below subject metering. If you are shooting so close, there is little room scene in the frame. Get the larger flash and keep it off camera. I have a herd of SB900s but added a Yongnuo YN-568ex and was so impressed with it that I got 2 more. Using the YN-622n flash controller transceivers and a YN-622 TX commander, it solves any remote mounting or power control issues when using multiple lights. I would suggest getting the Yn-568ex or other flash, about $99 in the US and use a diffuser like a mini softbox with a remote flash, meter for the room with slow shutter and use the softbox, hand held for subject illumination. Set the aperture and ISO so the room if 1-2 stops underexposed before tuning on the flash. The IR focus light on the YN-568 is brighter with more beams than my SB900's. Don't get too close to subjects with wide angle, the distortion can be very unflattering. Your camera has good low light DR so you can be safe increasing ISO to get the room ambient light. I always shoot in manual mode, it makes things more consistent and is easier. I shot in a club last night that was almost dead...my first visit there, nice upscale place and it was me and 12 girls and staff of about 30.....I guess it was an off night. I purposely wanted darker background to not make it obvious the place was dead, just enough background to suggest space. Here is an example f/2.8, 70mm, 1/125 ISO 800 (shutter was raised to drop ambient 2.5 stops) The SB900 and YN-568 are essentially interchangeable in this sort of shooting, but the Yongnuo is 1/7th the price. [ATTACH=CONFIG]252208._xfImport[/ATTACH] In a busy club, I shoot with drag shutter on a D800 or D7000, any of these cameras made in the last 8 years are fine for this sort of shooting. I usually use a 24-70 on fx or 17-55 on Dx, or 85 1.4 or better for clubs, the lower cost 1.8g version. Lens is not as critical as lighting, and the camera is not critical at all. A good all rounder for the Dx bodies is the 35 1.8g, sharp, low distortion and fast, light and cheap. I use a 24 1.4 sometimes or 70-200 2.8 but but the 70-200 is too heavy for one handed shooting, camera in right and, flash/modifier in the right. Your camera is perfect for one handed shooting. [/QUOTE]
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D3200 Speedlight for Close/WideAngle nightclub photography?
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