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Nikon DSLR Cameras
D3200
D3200 mid / high-ISO photos too grainy / noisy??
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<blockquote data-quote="alex6speed" data-source="post: 369130" data-attributes="member: 31080"><p>I'm quickly learning that a good percentage of photography is the equipment you have on the camera (glass, sensor, exposure time, balance), while the other set is all lighting (how well lit, what kind of light, what color of light, what type of focus with the lighting). Even though I have a 5300, I too find it problematic getting glass clean shots. What I realized over time is:</p><p></p><p>- The longer the exposure, the cleaner the shot comes out. I find my low light, tripod mounted, long exposure shots to be the cleanest I can ever get. </p><p>- If it's handheld shots, learn to be steady with the camera. Especially if you're trying to milk the quality of the shot with a slower exposure. Obviously not the perfect situation for sports or action.</p><p>- Glass and aperture really means a good bit. I found the kit lens to be absolute crap and only useful on a tripod, shot wide. The 55-300 ED VR II is extremely clean in comparison. </p><p>- Every shot will be fuzzy; you just need to zoom in closer! If you're paranoid that you can't zoom in 400x and get a clean view, it's ok. It happens to everyone! <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite7" alt=":p" title="Stick out tongue :p" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":p" /></p><p>- Post processing and what you use matters too. I found Photoshop's Camera Raw cleans out noise very efficiently, and more importantly, apply it at the RAW level - hence you can revert your changes. Not so easy when you have JPG and have to save as a Photoshop Project. Each application has it's perks and missteps. You just need to find the one that fits you ... mainly financially. (Thank goodness for company provided Photoshop! <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" />)</p><p></p><p>Hope that helps. And if any pro would like to correct me, I'd be appreciative too!</p><p></p><p>One more tip: I like to use Auto ISO, set my aperture to the depth I want to use, then change the exposure time until I get to ISO 100. This is a perfect indicator of how much light you have, how open the lens you're going, and what you're going to need in order to get a good shot at its most "restrictive" (or not so sensitive to light).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="alex6speed, post: 369130, member: 31080"] I'm quickly learning that a good percentage of photography is the equipment you have on the camera (glass, sensor, exposure time, balance), while the other set is all lighting (how well lit, what kind of light, what color of light, what type of focus with the lighting). Even though I have a 5300, I too find it problematic getting glass clean shots. What I realized over time is: - The longer the exposure, the cleaner the shot comes out. I find my low light, tripod mounted, long exposure shots to be the cleanest I can ever get. - If it's handheld shots, learn to be steady with the camera. Especially if you're trying to milk the quality of the shot with a slower exposure. Obviously not the perfect situation for sports or action. - Glass and aperture really means a good bit. I found the kit lens to be absolute crap and only useful on a tripod, shot wide. The 55-300 ED VR II is extremely clean in comparison. - Every shot will be fuzzy; you just need to zoom in closer! If you're paranoid that you can't zoom in 400x and get a clean view, it's ok. It happens to everyone! :p - Post processing and what you use matters too. I found Photoshop's Camera Raw cleans out noise very efficiently, and more importantly, apply it at the RAW level - hence you can revert your changes. Not so easy when you have JPG and have to save as a Photoshop Project. Each application has it's perks and missteps. You just need to find the one that fits you ... mainly financially. (Thank goodness for company provided Photoshop! :D) Hope that helps. And if any pro would like to correct me, I'd be appreciative too! One more tip: I like to use Auto ISO, set my aperture to the depth I want to use, then change the exposure time until I get to ISO 100. This is a perfect indicator of how much light you have, how open the lens you're going, and what you're going to need in order to get a good shot at its most "restrictive" (or not so sensitive to light). [/QUOTE]
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D3200 mid / high-ISO photos too grainy / noisy??
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