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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 288103" data-attributes="member: 12496">Well frankly, objecting that 1/128 power interferes with your flash pictures sounds like your expectations might be too low.&nbsp; <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile&nbsp; &nbsp; :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />&nbsp;&nbsp; Just saying, if your remote flash needed to be up near 1/4 power or something, it would surely entirely cover this up.Setting the mode to &quot;--&quot; does turn the internal flash off.&nbsp; Totally off, as a flash.&nbsp; However, it is also the Commander, so it will still flash commands BEFORE the shutter opens, but then it will not contribute to the picture lighting after the shutter opens.Except, after shutter opens,&nbsp; it still has to flash a signal to the remotes &quot;OK, Everybody flash NOW!&quot;.&nbsp;&nbsp; Your test result shows this is less bright than when you told it to contribute with 1/128 power, which added to it.But... there is an optional $12 Nikon SG-3IR panel (placed in the hot shoe, and from there, it can cover the internal flash) which blocks the visible light from the flash, and still allows the infrared component (sufficient for the commands.)&nbsp;&nbsp; If you cannot use a brighter flash for your pictures, then that should help do the job.See <a href="http://www.scantips.com/lights/awl.html#panel" target="_blank">Using the Nikon CLS Remote Wireless Flash System</a>&nbsp; for more about this slave trigger signal and the SG-3IR panel.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 288103, member: 12496"] Well frankly, objecting that 1/128 power interferes with your flash pictures sounds like your expectations might be too low. :) Just saying, if your remote flash needed to be up near 1/4 power or something, it would surely entirely cover this up. Setting the mode to "--" does turn the internal flash off. Totally off, as a flash. However, it is also the Commander, so it will still flash commands BEFORE the shutter opens, but then it will not contribute to the picture lighting after the shutter opens. Except, after shutter opens, it still has to flash a signal to the remotes "OK, Everybody flash NOW!". Your test result shows this is less bright than when you told it to contribute with 1/128 power, which added to it. But... there is an optional $12 Nikon SG-3IR panel (placed in the hot shoe, and from there, it can cover the internal flash) which blocks the visible light from the flash, and still allows the infrared component (sufficient for the commands.) If you cannot use a brighter flash for your pictures, then that should help do the job. See [URL="http://www.scantips.com/lights/awl.html#panel"]Using the Nikon CLS Remote Wireless Flash System[/URL] for more about this slave trigger signal and the SG-3IR panel. [/QUOTE]

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