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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 466723" data-attributes="member: 12496">Right, the internal flash is the Commander, and it must flash commands to the remote. Commanders gotta flash.&nbsp; However, they don't have to contribute to the scene lighting (you can choose that they can, but it is optional)..&nbsp; The internal flash has two separate functions, 1) commander, and 2) regular flash unit.&nbsp; We can choose to use either one, or both.The camera Commander menu has three groups:&nbsp; The&nbsp; Builtin flash, and A and B remotes. You can simply set the MODE for this Builtin Group to be mode &quot;--&quot;, which is Off, or disabled.&nbsp; If group B is unused, you can disable it the same way (mode &quot;--&quot;).&nbsp;&nbsp; The Commander still must flash commands to the remote (request for TTL preflash, and then setting its power level according to the metered result), but this is immediately before the shutter opens, so it will not contribute to the scene lighting.&nbsp;&nbsp; Or alternately, the builtin flash can also fully contribute as another group if not disabled.There is one exception (of no light from the commander) - If you are using like a f/2.8 lens wide open up very close to a shiny reflective subject, it can see the final flash trigger after the shutter is open.&nbsp; This is very weak, but such an unusual case can see a bit of light from the commander, However, there is a $12 shield to prevent that too.&nbsp; Normally NOT needed, any normal case (human portraits, etc) does not need anything else.This shield can also help prevent the classic blinking problem of human subjects.. Or using FV Lock is an easy solution too.See <a href="http://www.scantips.com/lights/awl.html" target="_blank">Using the Nikon CLS Remote Wireless Flash System</a> for more about this (2nd page, at the end), and about using the Commander.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 466723, member: 12496"] Right, the internal flash is the Commander, and it must flash commands to the remote. Commanders gotta flash. However, they don't have to contribute to the scene lighting (you can choose that they can, but it is optional).. The internal flash has two separate functions, 1) commander, and 2) regular flash unit. We can choose to use either one, or both. The camera Commander menu has three groups: The Builtin flash, and A and B remotes. You can simply set the MODE for this Builtin Group to be mode "--", which is Off, or disabled. If group B is unused, you can disable it the same way (mode "--"). The Commander still must flash commands to the remote (request for TTL preflash, and then setting its power level according to the metered result), but this is immediately before the shutter opens, so it will not contribute to the scene lighting. Or alternately, the builtin flash can also fully contribute as another group if not disabled. There is one exception (of no light from the commander) - If you are using like a f/2.8 lens wide open up very close to a shiny reflective subject, it can see the final flash trigger after the shutter is open. This is very weak, but such an unusual case can see a bit of light from the commander, However, there is a $12 shield to prevent that too. Normally NOT needed, any normal case (human portraits, etc) does not need anything else. This shield can also help prevent the classic blinking problem of human subjects.. Or using FV Lock is an easy solution too. See [URL="http://www.scantips.com/lights/awl.html"]Using the Nikon CLS Remote Wireless Flash System[/URL] for more about this (2nd page, at the end), and about using the Commander. [/QUOTE]

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