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Can 'auto ISO' be used when using a flash?
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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 280734" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>Maybe a bit less yellow would help the skin color, but I think that is White Balance, not exposure. My own rule of thumb for printed portraits is that the highlight on skin ought not to be more than 235 to 240. Yours just barely makes 200.</p><p></p><p>Mixed lighting is always a bear to deal with. High ISO does increase capture of the orange incandescent ambient (which I only assume is present). Your pictures show shadows BELOW the far room furniture, from above, but I don't know if that was bounce flash, or the incandescent room light. If exposure was set for room light, it is no doubt only the room light. f/1.8 and high Auto ISO is just not my own style with flash. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>So there are two philosophies. Nikon's Auto ISO will use high ISO to expose the indoors ambient, and the flash becomes<strong> fill level, not the main lght</strong>. That leaves things orange. Standard way to deal with that is to use an orange CTO filter on the flash, to make it orange too, and then to use Incandescent White Balance to correct both. Nikon added such filters to their SB-900 and SB-700 flashes about the time they allowed Auto ISO to go so high with flash.</p><p></p><p>Or, we can continue to simply use conventional low ISO 100 with flash. This keeps the ambient more dim, underexposed, not orange, and then the white flash lights everything of interest. Bounce lets that also be the room background, but bounce generally needs a little more ISO to help the available flash power. It need not be ISO 3200 however. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>Correcting WB: Buy a $5 Porta Brace White Balance card from B&H (or if available, other genuinely white things, like cheapest printer copy paper, or white ceramic dishes, are nearly as good - far better than nothing). Take test picture with it in the scene, illuminated by the SAME light as the subject. Use the WB tool in Raw to click it to correct the WB to be perfect. Then same picture without the card is corrected the same (both at once, one click). It doesnt get any better than that.</p><p>See <a href="http://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbasics1f.html" target="_blank">White Balance Correction, with or without Raw</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 280734, member: 12496"] Maybe a bit less yellow would help the skin color, but I think that is White Balance, not exposure. My own rule of thumb for printed portraits is that the highlight on skin ought not to be more than 235 to 240. Yours just barely makes 200. Mixed lighting is always a bear to deal with. High ISO does increase capture of the orange incandescent ambient (which I only assume is present). Your pictures show shadows BELOW the far room furniture, from above, but I don't know if that was bounce flash, or the incandescent room light. If exposure was set for room light, it is no doubt only the room light. f/1.8 and high Auto ISO is just not my own style with flash. :) So there are two philosophies. Nikon's Auto ISO will use high ISO to expose the indoors ambient, and the flash becomes[B] fill level, not the main lght[/B]. That leaves things orange. Standard way to deal with that is to use an orange CTO filter on the flash, to make it orange too, and then to use Incandescent White Balance to correct both. Nikon added such filters to their SB-900 and SB-700 flashes about the time they allowed Auto ISO to go so high with flash. Or, we can continue to simply use conventional low ISO 100 with flash. This keeps the ambient more dim, underexposed, not orange, and then the white flash lights everything of interest. Bounce lets that also be the room background, but bounce generally needs a little more ISO to help the available flash power. It need not be ISO 3200 however. :) Correcting WB: Buy a $5 Porta Brace White Balance card from B&H (or if available, other genuinely white things, like cheapest printer copy paper, or white ceramic dishes, are nearly as good - far better than nothing). Take test picture with it in the scene, illuminated by the SAME light as the subject. Use the WB tool in Raw to click it to correct the WB to be perfect. Then same picture without the card is corrected the same (both at once, one click). It doesnt get any better than that. See [URL="http://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbasics1f.html"]White Balance Correction, with or without Raw[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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Can 'auto ISO' be used when using a flash?
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