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Photography Q&A
Camera for Church D7200 or D750
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<blockquote data-quote="hark" data-source="post: 592509" data-attributes="member: 13196"><p>I read your other reply leaning towards a D7200 which is fine. It is an excellent body and should serve you well. My main reason for responding again is because earlier you mentioned being a hobbyist with much to learn--just a little info in case you don't know the following.</p><p></p><p>If your D5100 underexposes at times, that means the metering is picking up some brighter areas in your scene and is underexposing to compensate. Most likely any camera body reading the same scene with the same type of metering would yield similar results. You should have different types of metering options on your D5100. Perhaps try center weighted metering instead if you are currently using matrix metering. </p><p></p><p>OR on a D7200, there is a button on the top that will allow you to raise or lower the exposure. It would look something like the +/- exposure compensation button below. Not sure if your D5100 has a similar button to override what the camera meters. You press the button and rotate the rear wheel (on a D7200) to dial in +/-0.3, 0/7, 1.0 or whatever amount of over/underexposure you wish to adjust. You just need to remember to reset it to 0/0 to cancel it out.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]236003[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>If your metering is going to be off, it is better to overexpose <em><strong>a little</strong></em> than to underexpose a little. The problem with underexposing is that when raising the exposure during post processing, you introduce noise. You just don't want to overexpose by too much because of the possibility of completely blowing out the highlights. If you shoot RAW, there is much more latitude that allows highlights to be recovered compared to shooting jpeg. If you are capturing lights in your frame, then most likely that is the culprit, and they will probably be blown no matter what. </p><p></p><p>Lastly, have you determined the longest focal length you'd need to capture images of the speakers inside the auditorium? If you aren't too far back, you might be able to go with an 85mm f/1.8 which would be far less expensive than a 70-200mm f/2.8. You might be able to use one of your tele zooms, but it also means you might have to manually focus if it's too dark for the camera to lock focus.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="hark, post: 592509, member: 13196"] I read your other reply leaning towards a D7200 which is fine. It is an excellent body and should serve you well. My main reason for responding again is because earlier you mentioned being a hobbyist with much to learn--just a little info in case you don't know the following. If your D5100 underexposes at times, that means the metering is picking up some brighter areas in your scene and is underexposing to compensate. Most likely any camera body reading the same scene with the same type of metering would yield similar results. You should have different types of metering options on your D5100. Perhaps try center weighted metering instead if you are currently using matrix metering. OR on a D7200, there is a button on the top that will allow you to raise or lower the exposure. It would look something like the +/- exposure compensation button below. Not sure if your D5100 has a similar button to override what the camera meters. You press the button and rotate the rear wheel (on a D7200) to dial in +/-0.3, 0/7, 1.0 or whatever amount of over/underexposure you wish to adjust. You just need to remember to reset it to 0/0 to cancel it out. [ATTACH type="full" width="60%"]236003._xfImport[/ATTACH] If your metering is going to be off, it is better to overexpose [I][B]a little[/B][/I] than to underexpose a little. The problem with underexposing is that when raising the exposure during post processing, you introduce noise. You just don't want to overexpose by too much because of the possibility of completely blowing out the highlights. If you shoot RAW, there is much more latitude that allows highlights to be recovered compared to shooting jpeg. If you are capturing lights in your frame, then most likely that is the culprit, and they will probably be blown no matter what. Lastly, have you determined the longest focal length you'd need to capture images of the speakers inside the auditorium? If you aren't too far back, you might be able to go with an 85mm f/1.8 which would be far less expensive than a 70-200mm f/2.8. You might be able to use one of your tele zooms, but it also means you might have to manually focus if it's too dark for the camera to lock focus. [/QUOTE]
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Photography Q&A
Camera for Church D7200 or D750
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