Blurry photos with flash attachment

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Dave_W

The Dude
LABorn said:
Thanks for that. I just looked in the manual, is it possible the flash I have isn't right for this camera, meaning, not in synch?
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Very possible. Also keep in mind that cheaper flashes don't put out much more light than the pop-up flash. If you're considering buying a flash unit, be sure to do your homework on which flash you should buy and how powerful it should be.
 
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LABorn

New member
If there is one you recommend for this camera that isn't as expensive as the camera itself, I'm all ears. Thanks, gentlemen.
 
Horoscope Fish

Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
LABorn said:
I have to buy something else? DRAT it ALL!!!!
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Well it may work with your D5100, it may not, kind of depends on how you want to define "works"... It won't be TTL, which pretty much sucks, but you can probably learn to get good results with it if you're willing to keep experimenting.

Edit: Good, inexpensive replacement would be the Yongnuo 468-II or you could stick with the Nikon brand and get the SB-400 for around $200 or thereabouts.

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LABorn

New member
lol! I'm going to try it with the tripod and see. By the way, the pop up flash with the settings your described, worked great for the effect I was looking for, thank you!
 
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WayneF

Senior Member
LABorn said:
Hi all,

I am trying to work through using my new D5100, and am running tests. I need to shoot some close-ups of objects, and want the background blurred out, so have it set on ISO 100, Aperture preferred, with a flash attachment. It is acting as though it doesn't have a flash attached, meaning, the shutter speed is very slow (because the aperture is closed done to 5.6), hence all the photos have camera shake.
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In dim light (where you need flash), camera A or P modes will switch to a 1/60 second Minimum Shutter Speed With Flash. That is not a correct exposure for anything, its just that if you are using flash, it doesn't think you need some slower shutter speed for a dim ambient.

But there are a couple of exceptions. If your flash sync mode is Slow Sync or Rear Curtain Sync (D5100 manual page 51), it will retain whatever slow shutter speed that it meters for the dim ambient. Sounds like you must have that selected, but you want the default Minimum Shutter Speed With Flash, which is 1/60 second (some top end models have a menu to adjust that Minimum).

So just set Flash Sync mode to be normal mode (called Fill Flash in D5100), which is just regular front curtain sync. (instead of Slow or Rear Curtain sync). And avoid the Red Eye Reduction, it causes extra flashing and a one second delay you don't want.

That should get you a shutter speed of 1/60 second (with flash in dim ambient), in camera A mode.

Or... considered better by some - You can simply use camera M mode (manual) and set any shutter speed you want. In M mode, you still set aperture just like in camera A mode, and the flash works into that. A TTL flash is still fully automatic flash exposure in ANY camera mode. Manual just adds setting shutter speed. The flash is not affected by shutter speed, which is only for ambient continuous light. You can set it up to the Maximum Shutter Sync Speed, which is 1/200 second.

Shutter Priority mode S sets any shutter speed, but in dim ambient, it of course ensures the lens is wide open. You may much prefer it to be stopped down at least one stop. Since the flash is not even affected by shutter speed, the other modes are better than S mode.
 
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fotojack

Senior Member
Whenever describing a problem, it's always best to let us know what you're using, such as camera model, flash model, lens, setting in camera....like that. Saves a lot of back and forth questions. It would also be nice for you to fill out the rest of your profile, so we can better help you with any other questions you might have. Believe me, it really does help! :)

As far as flashes go, I'll always recommend the Nikon SB-700. It's what I like to refer to as 'Idiot Proof'. :) It IS worth the money, trust me on this!. If you're on a budget, then the SB-400 is a great option, too. Not as versatile or powerful as the 700, but useful nonetheless. :)

Oh...and read the friggin' manual your camera came with! ;) lol
 
Horoscope Fish

Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
FastGlass said:
Yes i'm confused myself. What flash attachment do you have?
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OP has been working with both the built-in/pop up flash of his D5100 as well as a hot-shoe mounted Ultiblitz DL-82ABSZ. This latter unit being a third-party flash whose compatibility remains in question at present.

More compatible units have been suggested.

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gqtuazon

Gear Head
LABorn said:
ISO 100, Aperture preferred, with a flash attachment. It is acting as though it doesn't have a flash attached, meaning, the shutter speed is very slow (because the aperture is closed done to 5.6), What am I missing here?
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I think the guys already figured out the root cause.

What I am assuming is that the OP is shooting indoors using aperture priority; with aperture priority and a kit lens zoomed in, the aperture goes to f5.6 and the camera will use the slowest shutter speed since it is being told that the user wants ISO 100.

Slower shutter speed led to blurry images and over exposed image.

A better way to do this is to use a tripod if you really want to use ISO 100 indoors and use slower shutter speed around 5 seconds or so. You'll get a much sharper image. The other option is to bump up your ISO around 800, set camera to manual and control the shutter speed.
 
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WayneF

Senior Member
I had not read far enough in the thread to realize this was about a non-dedicated flash. I do think compatibility is not the right word concerning them, in that manual flashes are rarely dedicated (for Nikon or Canon, etc). They are still compatible, they work OK - just like studio flash are not dedicated either (and they certainly are "compatible") But manual flash only use the one center pin to trigger them, which is all a radio trigger, PC sync cord, or optical slave can use. There is no other communication with the camera.

But to be detected present on the camera, a flash today on a Nikon would need to be a CLS system flash, communicating with the camera (the other three pins in hot shoe), which could then be sensed present, and could communicate the Ready light, and it could even show ISO and fstop values for example. None of which affects how a manual flash works. More is an unnecessary function on the flash. More communication could be convenient to the camera automation however, to at least know the flash was present. But almost all manual flashes are non-dedicated.

I could add that a manual flash really needs a manual camera too. For example, we absolutely have to turn Auto ISO off - we can't have the camera changing ISO after we get the manual flash power set up. And we have to use camera M or A mode, we cannot have S or P modes changing aperture after we get the manual flash set up.

Regarding shutter speed itself, the flash could not care less what it is, since shutter speed does not affect flash exposure. So we can set shutter speed any way we wish, except we must not let the shutter speed exceed Maximum Shutter Sync speed (often 1/200 second). If it were a system flash that the camera could detect present, the camera automation would not allow the shutter speed to exceed the Maximum Sync Speed.
 
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