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<blockquote data-quote="Chris@sabor" data-source="post: 662783" data-attributes="member: 40915"><p>Manual mode with Auto ISO is the ticket for wildlife and birds. Adjust speed as needed, increase depth of field when needed, let Auto ISO handle itself. Then I use exposure comp to handle the varying light conditions.</p><p></p><p>Shooting birds in flight at 1/500 is a recipe for frustration as you review your blurry images. In very low light. I'll go as low as 1/1000 but, as soon as light permits I want 1/1600 or higher.</p><p></p><p>Aperture is also important. In low light wide open is a must to keep ISO low. As the light intensifies, I try to stop down a little. If I can get to F8 or F9 I'm happy. Stopping down assists your autofocus by giving you a little deeper depth of field. There is more room to get the subject in focus.</p><p></p><p>I keep an eye on ISO. But anywhere between 100 and 5000 on my D500, I'm comfortable. I may let it go higher if the subject is of special interest. The other benefit to Auto ISO is that it also LOWERS ISO whenever possible!</p><p></p><p>The adjustment I make most often is Exposure Comp. Dark backgrounds, negative exposure comp, light background or sky, positive comp.</p><p></p><p>This isn't the end all be all but it's working well for me.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Chris@sabor, post: 662783, member: 40915"] Manual mode with Auto ISO is the ticket for wildlife and birds. Adjust speed as needed, increase depth of field when needed, let Auto ISO handle itself. Then I use exposure comp to handle the varying light conditions. Shooting birds in flight at 1/500 is a recipe for frustration as you review your blurry images. In very low light. I'll go as low as 1/1000 but, as soon as light permits I want 1/1600 or higher. Aperture is also important. In low light wide open is a must to keep ISO low. As the light intensifies, I try to stop down a little. If I can get to F8 or F9 I'm happy. Stopping down assists your autofocus by giving you a little deeper depth of field. There is more room to get the subject in focus. I keep an eye on ISO. But anywhere between 100 and 5000 on my D500, I'm comfortable. I may let it go higher if the subject is of special interest. The other benefit to Auto ISO is that it also LOWERS ISO whenever possible! The adjustment I make most often is Exposure Comp. Dark backgrounds, negative exposure comp, light background or sky, positive comp. This isn't the end all be all but it's working well for me. [/QUOTE]
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