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Photography Q&A
"Automagic" ISO setting on a DSLR
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<blockquote data-quote="BackdoorArts" data-source="post: 674771" data-attributes="member: 9240"><p>This exactly. Though I use Auto ISO in Aperture Priority all the time as well.</p><p></p><p>ISO in the digital realm is a measure of amplification of light information after the sensor processes it. All current Nikon models have a "Native ISO" of 100, meaning that what you get at ISO 100 is pure from the sensor with no amplification. If you think about amplification in musical terms native ISO is where a guitar amplifier is delivering full, pure tone from the instrument with no distortion (i.e. "noise") of the signal. As you increase the volume (i.e. go to higher ISO values) from that point the signal will begin to distort (i.e. get noisier). How much depends on the amp/camera. Some begin to distort quickly, others may take some time, but at some point they'll all get noisy. I've found most current sensors to be really good through about 6400 depending on the amount of detail in the frame. My first Nikon, a D7000, couldn't go past 1600. My D750 can do 6400 easy. My D500 can get there as well, but for birds I don't like anything above 4000 and prefer to keep it at 3200. I should add that many cameras allow you to go below 100 which is attenuation instead of amplification. Again as with an amplifier you will lose something when you do it, the question is whether you even notice it and whether it can be dealt with in post. </p><p></p><p>Speaking of which, all this assumes you're shooting RAW, which you should. All the time. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite2" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=";)" /></p><p></p><p>With each camera I have I decide what the maximum acceptable ISO setting is for whatever situation I'm in and then I program the Auto ISO settings so that they do not exceed that while also capping the shutter speed in a way that guarantees I don't accidentally blur the photo by moving while shooting in Aperture. That leaves me to concentrate on the shot instead of the camera.</p><p></p><p>Does that make me less of a photographer? Don't know, don't care. Are Formula One drivers today lesser drivers than those who pioneered the sport with lesser cars and manual everything? Are golfers today less talented than Jack and Arnie because they have more forgiving equipment? Honestly, who cares. </p><p></p><p>I think anything that allows an artist of any type to concentrate on the result instead of the tools used to create it is a good thing. Sure using a DSLR is easier, but so is just about anything these days. For film photographers I can see how features like this can make you think less of the skill of the photographers using it, but for me it's all about a tradesman with a tool thing - when you're given a tool you learn how to use it to its fullest.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BackdoorArts, post: 674771, member: 9240"] This exactly. Though I use Auto ISO in Aperture Priority all the time as well. ISO in the digital realm is a measure of amplification of light information after the sensor processes it. All current Nikon models have a "Native ISO" of 100, meaning that what you get at ISO 100 is pure from the sensor with no amplification. If you think about amplification in musical terms native ISO is where a guitar amplifier is delivering full, pure tone from the instrument with no distortion (i.e. "noise") of the signal. As you increase the volume (i.e. go to higher ISO values) from that point the signal will begin to distort (i.e. get noisier). How much depends on the amp/camera. Some begin to distort quickly, others may take some time, but at some point they'll all get noisy. I've found most current sensors to be really good through about 6400 depending on the amount of detail in the frame. My first Nikon, a D7000, couldn't go past 1600. My D750 can do 6400 easy. My D500 can get there as well, but for birds I don't like anything above 4000 and prefer to keep it at 3200. I should add that many cameras allow you to go below 100 which is attenuation instead of amplification. Again as with an amplifier you will lose something when you do it, the question is whether you even notice it and whether it can be dealt with in post. Speaking of which, all this assumes you're shooting RAW, which you should. All the time. ;) With each camera I have I decide what the maximum acceptable ISO setting is for whatever situation I'm in and then I program the Auto ISO settings so that they do not exceed that while also capping the shutter speed in a way that guarantees I don't accidentally blur the photo by moving while shooting in Aperture. That leaves me to concentrate on the shot instead of the camera. Does that make me less of a photographer? Don't know, don't care. Are Formula One drivers today lesser drivers than those who pioneered the sport with lesser cars and manual everything? Are golfers today less talented than Jack and Arnie because they have more forgiving equipment? Honestly, who cares. I think anything that allows an artist of any type to concentrate on the result instead of the tools used to create it is a good thing. Sure using a DSLR is easier, but so is just about anything these days. For film photographers I can see how features like this can make you think less of the skill of the photographers using it, but for me it's all about a tradesman with a tool thing - when you're given a tool you learn how to use it to its fullest. [/QUOTE]
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"Automagic" ISO setting on a DSLR
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