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At what point is it over kill for me?
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<blockquote data-quote="WayneF" data-source="post: 166783" data-attributes="member: 12496"><p>Since you have already learned to watch your results and adjust your flash power level for the result you want, then you already know more than many - you are virtually pro level. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>Bounce flash solves many problems when it is possible (no red eye, no glare, less background falloff, more natural lighting, etc), but it does require more flash power, and neither the SB-50DX or SB-400 are full power flashes, which means their bounce could need more ISO speed to hang in there. As a rule however, you do NOT want Auto ISO for flash.. Indoors with flash, Auto ISO will always use maximum ISO (current camera models). Instead, set ISO to what you want to use.</p><p></p><p>You won't have any issues with TTL. The difference is:</p><p></p><p>Manual flash, you have to guess at a starting power level, say 1/4 power for example (about like last time in same situation), and then tweak it in for the result you want.</p><p></p><p>TTL meters a preflash and gets very much closer the first time. Often just about right, but we still have to watch and tweak a bit, sometimes. The thing to know is that Flash Compensation is the way this tweak is done. If you need a bit more TTL power than automation provides, add a little +EV Flash Compensation, results judged by eye. You won't have any trouble, and its first try will be pretty close. Once you get FC right for your ceiling situation, generally you can walk around the room shooting without much further consideration, TTL will continue metering and getting it right. TTL is wonderful stuff for varied situations - where manual flash is often the best thing for fixed situation (unvarying). Both modes need to be watched though.</p><p></p><p>With a full power flash, f/4 and ISO 400 bounce usually works, even on 10 or 12 foot ceilings. F/8 might almost work at full power on a ten foot ceiling, and f/5.6 normally works on 8 or 10 foot ceiling. But f/4 is a fairly failsafe value (for a full powered TTL flash), and keeps recycle times short. Also at lower power levels, it is a speedlight, extremely fast flash duration that stops motion. I suspect the lower SB-400 capability will need at least ISO 800 a lot of the time.</p><p></p><p>My notion is that many beginners seem to imagine the cameras job is to always get it right, and that they need not get involved, but of course, that does not always work. It is not a good understanding of the details that get messy. </p><p></p><p>The thing to know for TTL flash exposure is that Flash Compensation is the tool you use to adjust what the automation failed to get right. It will be pretty close, but not always perfect, until you help a little, sometimes.</p><p></p><p>And when the flash does not have sufficient power for the current situation and settings, watch for the three warning blinks of the Ready LED immediately after the shot. That tells you that you need wider aperture or higher ISO, for this situation.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WayneF, post: 166783, member: 12496"] Since you have already learned to watch your results and adjust your flash power level for the result you want, then you already know more than many - you are virtually pro level. :) Bounce flash solves many problems when it is possible (no red eye, no glare, less background falloff, more natural lighting, etc), but it does require more flash power, and neither the SB-50DX or SB-400 are full power flashes, which means their bounce could need more ISO speed to hang in there. As a rule however, you do NOT want Auto ISO for flash.. Indoors with flash, Auto ISO will always use maximum ISO (current camera models). Instead, set ISO to what you want to use. You won't have any issues with TTL. The difference is: Manual flash, you have to guess at a starting power level, say 1/4 power for example (about like last time in same situation), and then tweak it in for the result you want. TTL meters a preflash and gets very much closer the first time. Often just about right, but we still have to watch and tweak a bit, sometimes. The thing to know is that Flash Compensation is the way this tweak is done. If you need a bit more TTL power than automation provides, add a little +EV Flash Compensation, results judged by eye. You won't have any trouble, and its first try will be pretty close. Once you get FC right for your ceiling situation, generally you can walk around the room shooting without much further consideration, TTL will continue metering and getting it right. TTL is wonderful stuff for varied situations - where manual flash is often the best thing for fixed situation (unvarying). Both modes need to be watched though. With a full power flash, f/4 and ISO 400 bounce usually works, even on 10 or 12 foot ceilings. F/8 might almost work at full power on a ten foot ceiling, and f/5.6 normally works on 8 or 10 foot ceiling. But f/4 is a fairly failsafe value (for a full powered TTL flash), and keeps recycle times short. Also at lower power levels, it is a speedlight, extremely fast flash duration that stops motion. I suspect the lower SB-400 capability will need at least ISO 800 a lot of the time. My notion is that many beginners seem to imagine the cameras job is to always get it right, and that they need not get involved, but of course, that does not always work. It is not a good understanding of the details that get messy. The thing to know for TTL flash exposure is that Flash Compensation is the tool you use to adjust what the automation failed to get right. It will be pretty close, but not always perfect, until you help a little, sometimes. And when the flash does not have sufficient power for the current situation and settings, watch for the three warning blinks of the Ready LED immediately after the shot. That tells you that you need wider aperture or higher ISO, for this situation. [/QUOTE]
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At what point is it over kill for me?
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