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<blockquote data-quote="MrF" data-source="post: 166779" data-attributes="member: 10292">Part of the beauty of iTTL is that you don't have to understand much about it at all if you don't want to.&nbsp; The camera fires preflashes before the shutter opens and measures the exposure and uses that to figure out on what power to fire the flash for the photo.&nbsp; You can actually see the preflashes if you set a long shutter speed (a few seconds) and rear curtain sync.&nbsp; They happen too fast to see otherwise.&nbsp; It doesn't matter if you're bouncing the flash, using a diffuser, etc.&nbsp; If you're bouncing it off a wall behind you for example, the camera will use the pre-flashes to figure out that it needs more power than if you were using direct flash.&nbsp; No need to calculate the distance or use guide numbers or anything.As for avoiding red eye, moving the flash off-axis with your bracket should help quite a bit.&nbsp; For avoiding harsh shadows, bounce the flash or use one of Horoscope Fish's suggestions.&nbsp; There's a lot of good information out there on the interwebs too.&nbsp; If you're a fan of manual flash, check out The Strobist's blogspot page.&nbsp; Great work, and he explains everything he does very well.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="MrF, post: 166779, member: 10292"] Part of the beauty of iTTL is that you don't have to understand much about it at all if you don't want to. The camera fires preflashes before the shutter opens and measures the exposure and uses that to figure out on what power to fire the flash for the photo. You can actually see the preflashes if you set a long shutter speed (a few seconds) and rear curtain sync. They happen too fast to see otherwise. It doesn't matter if you're bouncing the flash, using a diffuser, etc. If you're bouncing it off a wall behind you for example, the camera will use the pre-flashes to figure out that it needs more power than if you were using direct flash. No need to calculate the distance or use guide numbers or anything. As for avoiding red eye, moving the flash off-axis with your bracket should help quite a bit. For avoiding harsh shadows, bounce the flash or use one of Horoscope Fish's suggestions. There's a lot of good information out there on the interwebs too. If you're a fan of manual flash, check out The Strobist's blogspot page. Great work, and he explains everything he does very well. [/QUOTE]

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