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<blockquote data-quote="BackdoorArts" data-source="post: 584991" data-attributes="member: 9240"><p>What you have here is a dynamic range issue. The human eye can perceive a much wider dynamic range than a camera sensor. The human brain can also interpret and "display" a wide variety of light levels so that you can "see" across that huge range. The camera, on the other hand, must display a single interpretation of the light in the frame and generally does so in a way that allows the brightest light to be visible in a way that's not blown out with the rest falling in line. So while both eye and the camera saw all the shadow detail the camera is forced to interpret it based on the brightest light in the photo. On a sunny day, like the one you have here, your brights are brighter and your shadows darker when compared to the median exposure value, which is why shots like this are more easily captured on an overcast day.</p><p></p><p>That said, are you stuck with that? It depends. The sensor has access to all that light information and, in general, will be able to capture light information across a 7 to 10 stop dynamic range (your eye is generally around 13 stops). What it displays is based on the brightest light, but the rest of the information is captured. If you're shooting JPEG all you get is the single interpretation, <em>but if you shoot RAW</em><em> then you still have access to all the light information.</em> So in post processing you can usually/hopefully access that shadow (dark areas) and highlight (light areas) that don't look right in the default interpretation. The farther that light information is from the median exposure value the more you have to rely on sensor quality to get "good light" in those areas. This is where High Dynamic Range (HDR) photography can help by combining bracketed exposures that each center on a different exposure value giving you more "good light" information. Most cameras can do this internally, but only in JPEG mode. Better results are almost always obtained using post processing program and the good news is that Lightroom and Photoshop both do HDR merging for you, and Google's Nik Collection (free!!) has a great program called HDR Efex that does it as well.</p><p></p><p>Here's a good explanation of what Dynamic Range is if you're unfamiliar with it.</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=youtube]ulfILqYI5T8[/MEDIA]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BackdoorArts, post: 584991, member: 9240"] What you have here is a dynamic range issue. The human eye can perceive a much wider dynamic range than a camera sensor. The human brain can also interpret and "display" a wide variety of light levels so that you can "see" across that huge range. The camera, on the other hand, must display a single interpretation of the light in the frame and generally does so in a way that allows the brightest light to be visible in a way that's not blown out with the rest falling in line. So while both eye and the camera saw all the shadow detail the camera is forced to interpret it based on the brightest light in the photo. On a sunny day, like the one you have here, your brights are brighter and your shadows darker when compared to the median exposure value, which is why shots like this are more easily captured on an overcast day. That said, are you stuck with that? It depends. The sensor has access to all that light information and, in general, will be able to capture light information across a 7 to 10 stop dynamic range (your eye is generally around 13 stops). What it displays is based on the brightest light, but the rest of the information is captured. If you're shooting JPEG all you get is the single interpretation, [I]but if you shoot RAW[/I][I] then you still have access to all the light information.[/I] So in post processing you can usually/hopefully access that shadow (dark areas) and highlight (light areas) that don't look right in the default interpretation. The farther that light information is from the median exposure value the more you have to rely on sensor quality to get "good light" in those areas. This is where High Dynamic Range (HDR) photography can help by combining bracketed exposures that each center on a different exposure value giving you more "good light" information. Most cameras can do this internally, but only in JPEG mode. Better results are almost always obtained using post processing program and the good news is that Lightroom and Photoshop both do HDR merging for you, and Google's Nik Collection (free!!) has a great program called HDR Efex that does it as well. Here's a good explanation of what Dynamic Range is if you're unfamiliar with it. [MEDIA=youtube]ulfILqYI5T8[/MEDIA] [/QUOTE]
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