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Post Processing
Advice Wanted to make sharper better quality photos/prints
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<blockquote data-quote="spb_stan" data-source="post: 645107" data-attributes="member: 43545"><p>As others suggested, f/16 is well into diffraction so images can't be very sharp, for those images, f/8 would be fine. Turn off Auto ISO and set it to 100 ISO for those daylight images. One of those was over 1000 ISO so noise is expected in the blue sky, and noise appears and indistinct edges. You can add sharpening to the desired Picture Control but if too much sharpening, artifacts are generated can appear as less distinct detail. Sharpening is better done in moderation in post processing,where you have more control. Seldom does the whole image need noise reduction so using a selective tool for noise reduction will reduce the visibility of noise or over sharpening artifacts. Keeping the sharpening in camera to the middle of the slider for Picture Control will prevent halos and other oversharpening artifacts. </p><p>Do you see anyone's photos being sharp on your monitor? If you are pixel peeping sharpness will seem poor but when viewed at normal distance and size is the real test of sharpness that matters. </p><p>Are you cropping any of the images? Cropping kills sharpness,frame the subject so the maximum number of pixels define the details of the subject.</p><p>The appearance of sharpness is mostly edge definition and edge contrast, so selective sharpening is best to keep noise less obvious and edges just sharp enough to convey the impression of sharpness without resorting to sharpening bright areas like the sky. After you get images looking sharp on monitor then you can tackle the printing sharpness and you will find different optimum sharpening settings are needed for printing versus screen viewing</p><p></p><p>Other factors in losing sharpness is saving JPG files. Only save an edit once, because each time it is saved and edited in any way, it is compressed all over again losing detail and image quality. That is one reason to process NEF Raw files so the original stays high resolution and every edit when rendered from the RAW file will be compress only once. Saving two versions of the image for print and for screen viewing, by editing the raw(the raw file stays original but edits are lists of instructions saved in a separate file of edits and instructions how the software will render the JPG. If you need other sizes, go back to the raw file and edit it for the size JPG you want and only save it once as resized JPG.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="spb_stan, post: 645107, member: 43545"] As others suggested, f/16 is well into diffraction so images can't be very sharp, for those images, f/8 would be fine. Turn off Auto ISO and set it to 100 ISO for those daylight images. One of those was over 1000 ISO so noise is expected in the blue sky, and noise appears and indistinct edges. You can add sharpening to the desired Picture Control but if too much sharpening, artifacts are generated can appear as less distinct detail. Sharpening is better done in moderation in post processing,where you have more control. Seldom does the whole image need noise reduction so using a selective tool for noise reduction will reduce the visibility of noise or over sharpening artifacts. Keeping the sharpening in camera to the middle of the slider for Picture Control will prevent halos and other oversharpening artifacts. Do you see anyone's photos being sharp on your monitor? If you are pixel peeping sharpness will seem poor but when viewed at normal distance and size is the real test of sharpness that matters. Are you cropping any of the images? Cropping kills sharpness,frame the subject so the maximum number of pixels define the details of the subject. The appearance of sharpness is mostly edge definition and edge contrast, so selective sharpening is best to keep noise less obvious and edges just sharp enough to convey the impression of sharpness without resorting to sharpening bright areas like the sky. After you get images looking sharp on monitor then you can tackle the printing sharpness and you will find different optimum sharpening settings are needed for printing versus screen viewing Other factors in losing sharpness is saving JPG files. Only save an edit once, because each time it is saved and edited in any way, it is compressed all over again losing detail and image quality. That is one reason to process NEF Raw files so the original stays high resolution and every edit when rendered from the RAW file will be compress only once. Saving two versions of the image for print and for screen viewing, by editing the raw(the raw file stays original but edits are lists of instructions saved in a separate file of edits and instructions how the software will render the JPG. If you need other sizes, go back to the raw file and edit it for the size JPG you want and only save it once as resized JPG. [/QUOTE]
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