A Really Basic Question.... about Diopter adjustment.

[Theraphosa]

Getting correct focus is my constant challenge. As I've gotten older, I come to the point that I need reading glasses. However, I don't wear them when I'm looking through the viewfinder.

Instead, I was told to adjust the diopter until everything seemed in focus. Which sounds easier than it is... The problem is that there are a couple of clicks in that area that all look like they are in focus (-ish).

In shooting macro, sometimes the difference between in focus and out of focus is really, really tiny, so I'd like to make sure that I've got as many variables under control as possible. Especially the focussing variables!

Consequently, is there a method or process that you all use to make sure that what you see through the viewfinder is as accurate as possible?

Thanks in advance!

Bob

 

[J-see]

Yes, I cut up some old glasses and produced a correction diopter for the viewfinder out of that. I however have problems with distance, not close (yet).

 

[J-see]

To add. Even with my improvised correction, I find it it a pain to get the focus or DOF right. Me shooting handheld surely contributes to this problem since even breathing shifts everything in and out of focus. But in our world even the weakest wind triggers dramatic changes. Not even mentioning the subject's movement.

I'm constantly struggling to get it right and must say that even while I see sharpness through my viewfinder, it's not exactly a giant HDTV.

Edit; many glasses are some sort of plastic these days. Easy to cut and polish.

 

[Theraphosa]

That's an interesting solution. Ingenious, actually. I would have never thought of that.
I don't think I need that much work though. I can get a sharp focus, without my readers, just by adjusting the diopter. I'm just wanting to find the absolute (if there is such a thing) best way to focus the diopter accurately. To see if anyone has some trick they use to make it simpler and/or more accurate.

Thanks,
Bob

 

[WayneF]

Instead, I was told to adjust the diopter until everything seemed in focus. Which sounds easier than it is... The problem is that there are a couple of clicks in that area that all look like they are in focus (-ish).

My notion is that not distinguishing between a couple of clicks just means it is not critical which you choose. You are adjusting this diopter adjustment to see the viewfinder itself... seeing the the lines and features of the viewfinder. It has nothing to do with focus of the camera lens (although it does help you to see that better, properly). But if a couple of clicks at the correct point don't show a difference, it doesn't matter which you choose, it's all good. The viewfinder lines and features should be sharp and clear at both such clicks. If there were a difference, you'd do it.

Macro focus is simply difficult sometimes, esp when real close. Sometimes the auto focus can't do it well. Sometimes when you try your hardest to get it right, it still works out focus is slightly in front of or behind where you thought it was. Macro focus is just hard sometimes.

 

[Theraphosa]

That is very helpful WayneF, thank you very much.

 

[J-see]

What I do is focus until I get it sharp, then go further until it blurs and then take it a notch back until its back in focus. That should, if all goes well, give me most sharpness where needed.

I assume that's how you're supposed to do it. I picked that up many moons ago but it's kinda vague where or who.

 

[Horoscope Fish]

Take a a page from a magazine with a lot of smallish print on it and tape it to your refrigerator door. The print on the page needs to be readable from about three feet away or so (unless you have tele/zoom lens to use for this). Now stand back about three feet. Look at the print on the page through the viewfinder and adjust the diopter until the print appears as sharp as possible. Having really good, bright light for this a really good idea, too.

....

 

[Tom Grove]

you could get one of these diopter magnifiers... They can be a bit pricey, but I'm sure there are bargains out there ...

 

[aroy]

Nikon suggests that their display in the view finder should be sharp, so adjust it to get maximum sharpness. As the adjustment is only 1 diopter, your glasses should be within 1 diopter (+-0.5) of the correct value. I have distance vision glasses, as well as ones to see the computer screen. The latter with diopter adjustment are just about right. So what you can do is to check a few glasses with varying power (our spectacle shop has an optometrist who helped me out to get the correct power), and choose the one which gives you the sharpest image of the VF data.

 

[Fred Kingston_RIP]

If you're shooting macro... I assume (maybe I shouldn't) that you're using a tripod or some form of fixed holding for the camera???

Try this... set your camera to manual focus
turn on live view
start pressing the magnifier button until the live view zooms all the way in
manually focus the lens

 

[Pretzel]

If you're shooting macro... I assume (maybe I shouldn't) that you're using a tripod or some form of fixed holding for the camera???

Try this... set your camera to manual focus
turn on live view
start pressing the magnifier button until the live view zooms all the way in
manually focus the lens

What he said.

 

[Theraphosa]

All great suggestions, thanks folks.
When shooting macro, I don't usually use a tripod. Mostly I'm sneaking up on dragonflies or crawling up on jumping spiders, so tripods aren't really practical.
I try to prop my elbows or camera against something solid.
I'll start with the fine print focusing and if then try the glasses/magnifier options as well.
Ultimately, I think WayneF pegged best though, ...macro is just hard. Especially if you have wonky vision up close.