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7 Rules for CPL Filters
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<blockquote data-quote="Joseph Bautsch" data-source="post: 16207" data-attributes="member: 654"><p>This is a great article for those who want to learn something about scenic photography using a polarizer filter. I recommend bookmarking his web site and visit it often. One thing he does not point out is that a CPL is also equal to a 1.3 or 1.5 ND and needs to be accounted for when making an exposure. The only thing I would disagree with is leaving a CPL filter on the lens rather than a UV or a clear glass filter. I did that with a very expensive Hoya CPL on a four day scenic workshop and damaged the outer surface of the filter. The coatings on a CPL are not as scratch resistant as on a good UV filter and as a result are more prone to being damaged. Replacing a good CPL is a lot more expensive than a UV. Thanks for the post Jack.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Joseph Bautsch, post: 16207, member: 654"] This is a great article for those who want to learn something about scenic photography using a polarizer filter. I recommend bookmarking his web site and visit it often. One thing he does not point out is that a CPL is also equal to a 1.3 or 1.5 ND and needs to be accounted for when making an exposure. The only thing I would disagree with is leaving a CPL filter on the lens rather than a UV or a clear glass filter. I did that with a very expensive Hoya CPL on a four day scenic workshop and damaged the outer surface of the filter. The coatings on a CPL are not as scratch resistant as on a good UV filter and as a result are more prone to being damaged. Replacing a good CPL is a lot more expensive than a UV. Thanks for the post Jack. [/QUOTE]
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