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Photography Q&A
200mm f/4 lens focusing distance and blurry image at 1:1 magnification ratio
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<blockquote data-quote="BF Hammer" data-source="post: 836895" data-attributes="member: 48483"><p>Let's review the EXIF:</p><p></p><p>FILE PROPERTIES</p><p></p><p>[ ./ ]</p><p>Content-type: image/jpeg</p><p>Size: 440545 bytes (430.22 KB)</p><p>Last modified: Wed, 10 Sep 2025 23:39:56 GMT</p><p>Dimensions: 2607x2085 pixels</p><p></p><p>IMAGE META DATA</p><p></p><p>Date: 2000-02-26 00:08:10 (no TZ)</p><p>Make: NIKON CORPORATION</p><p>Model: NIKON D90</p><p>Focal Length: 200mm, 300mm (35mm equivalent)</p><p>Aperture: ƒ/5.6</p><p>Exposure Time: 0.0025s (1/400)</p><p>ISO equivalent: 220</p><p>Flash Fired: No</p><p>White Balance: Manual</p><p>Exposure: Manual</p><p>Exposure Bias: none</p><p>Metering Mode: Matrix</p><p>Focal Length: 200</p><p>Focal Length (35mm): 300</p><p></p><p>From your description, you are using a focusing rail. So, on a tripod I presume. You have up to 30 seconds of shutter speed to use for getting more exposure. I would dramatically slow down shutter, and increase the f-stop to at least f/16, up to f/32 if your lens allows it and it doesn't trash your edge sharpness. You need all the Depth Of Field that can be obtained. When I used a D80 over a decade ago, I shot photos of watches at ISO 200 but hesitated to go to ISO 400 due to sensor noise that was common in that era. But I would go to multi-second exposures if I had to.</p><p></p><p>Also, don't obsess with reaching the minimum focus distance to get as close as you can. Just buy an extension ring or 2 if you must to allow you to move in closer. They are cheap for F-mount, even the kind that have the AI connectors and can allow autofocus. When you push the lens to the edge of it's ability, it will not perform as well. Back off focus a little bit and use the focusing rail to back up the camera until the image sharpens up. Use the LiveView that is available on a D90, it is much easier to see the changes. But cropping the photo down after and resizing it is perfectly acceptable for making the gem fill the photo. But understand extension rings also have the effect of shrinking your Depth of Field.</p><p></p><p>What I see is that the outside edges have the best focus (not quite there) and the front surface is badly out of focus. I think you have the DOF so narrow that only a thin slice of your depth will be focused. The inside center of the gem in this photo's case. The closer you move in with the lens, the narrower that slice of focus becomes. Again, back-off the gear a little. It will make a difference. </p><p></p><p>And I will throw in a reminder for the long exposures to use a 2-second or 5-second shutter delay so you pushing the shutter release will not transmit shake into the exposure. Better still is to buy an aftermarket wired remote shutter release. They are also very cheap on Amazon. A D90 will use the small rectangular connector type, there is another kind with a round connector that only is for a handful of higher-end Nikon DSLR. I use mine always when on tripod.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BF Hammer, post: 836895, member: 48483"] Let's review the EXIF: FILE PROPERTIES [ ./ ] Content-type: image/jpeg Size: 440545 bytes (430.22 KB) Last modified: Wed, 10 Sep 2025 23:39:56 GMT Dimensions: 2607x2085 pixels IMAGE META DATA Date: 2000-02-26 00:08:10 (no TZ) Make: NIKON CORPORATION Model: NIKON D90 Focal Length: 200mm, 300mm (35mm equivalent) Aperture: ƒ/5.6 Exposure Time: 0.0025s (1/400) ISO equivalent: 220 Flash Fired: No White Balance: Manual Exposure: Manual Exposure Bias: none Metering Mode: Matrix Focal Length: 200 Focal Length (35mm): 300 From your description, you are using a focusing rail. So, on a tripod I presume. You have up to 30 seconds of shutter speed to use for getting more exposure. I would dramatically slow down shutter, and increase the f-stop to at least f/16, up to f/32 if your lens allows it and it doesn't trash your edge sharpness. You need all the Depth Of Field that can be obtained. When I used a D80 over a decade ago, I shot photos of watches at ISO 200 but hesitated to go to ISO 400 due to sensor noise that was common in that era. But I would go to multi-second exposures if I had to. Also, don't obsess with reaching the minimum focus distance to get as close as you can. Just buy an extension ring or 2 if you must to allow you to move in closer. They are cheap for F-mount, even the kind that have the AI connectors and can allow autofocus. When you push the lens to the edge of it's ability, it will not perform as well. Back off focus a little bit and use the focusing rail to back up the camera until the image sharpens up. Use the LiveView that is available on a D90, it is much easier to see the changes. But cropping the photo down after and resizing it is perfectly acceptable for making the gem fill the photo. But understand extension rings also have the effect of shrinking your Depth of Field. What I see is that the outside edges have the best focus (not quite there) and the front surface is badly out of focus. I think you have the DOF so narrow that only a thin slice of your depth will be focused. The inside center of the gem in this photo's case. The closer you move in with the lens, the narrower that slice of focus becomes. Again, back-off the gear a little. It will make a difference. And I will throw in a reminder for the long exposures to use a 2-second or 5-second shutter delay so you pushing the shutter release will not transmit shake into the exposure. Better still is to buy an aftermarket wired remote shutter release. They are also very cheap on Amazon. A D90 will use the small rectangular connector type, there is another kind with a round connector that only is for a handful of higher-end Nikon DSLR. I use mine always when on tripod. [/QUOTE]
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Photography Q&A
200mm f/4 lens focusing distance and blurry image at 1:1 magnification ratio
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