Unfair expectations of Tamron 24-70 lens, or issue?

[Bingo76]

Hey,
Would really appreciate any thoughts or advice. I normally buy my kit from MBP, but this time bought a Tamron SP24-70 from a local seller via a classifieds site. I've never quite gelled with the lens - I find it far too soft. I normally shoot sports photography using a 100-400 Sigma that I love. Occasionally I like to use the Tamron for end of game close-ups and team shots. Without fail the team shots always end up soft. (I use Aperture priority and static focus mode for these - for sports I use full manual).
I also have a small Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 35mm f/1.8G lens which I don't use much, but I'm wondering if this is a mistake. I just took the below pics (sorry aware one is f8, one f9). I've taken an intentionally messy pic to help identify detail (focussing on the rugby ball and the bin writing is helpful). I took a similar range to a group team shot. The difference is startling, the 35mm prime is soooo much clearer

1) Am I expecting too much of the Tamron, or just using it incorrectly, or could there be an issue with the lense that I'm not aware of?
2) Should I be using the 35mm for team shots going forwards?
Presume the exif is accessible but if not, both taken on a d500 Nikon, F8/F9, 1/4000s, 35mm focal length, ISO 1250

I should also state I'm a relative newbie / in danger of being all the gear, no idea type, so if I'm doing something odd assume stupidity

Big thanks in advance for any thoughts

https://flic.kr/p/2saCKA4 https://flic.kr/p/2saCKzT

 

[BF Hammer]

I have to ask where you set focus on? The only sharp area on the Nikon 35mm I see is the extreme right inside the garage door. I think the Tamron is focused on the white bags in front of the hay bales. I have no idea of what you intended to focus on.

 

[Bingo76]

Hiya, thanks for the response. I set the focus in dead centre middle of the frame in both. But what you're saying tallies. Maybe I need to retake them again

 

[Bingo76]

So I re-took them, focussing on the grey bin (dead centre). Obviously light levels have now dropped, and there doesn't seem to be as much difference in them. I'm trying to replicate the distance and width of photo of a group of 20-30 players for a team shot (I realise it's a very random pic, but it's obviously harder to take test pics of live team/group shots!)

Tamron 35mm:
https://flic.kr/p/2saxgEr
Nikkor 24-70:
https://flic.kr/p/2saDWjb

 

[Bingo76]

Maybe it's easier to start with an example pic I'm disappointed with. This is untinkered with. I probably should have stepped up the aperture a bit more to let in more light, but I was hoping that the faces would be clearer and sharper, particularly when zoomed in a little. Maybe I'm just expecting too much from the lens?

https://flic.kr/p/2saxHLE

 

[Clovishound]

Well, the last two you posted were taken at 1/40 sec, and appear to be very soft center to edge. My guess is camera shake. The first two were both sharp in the center, and were taken with a rather high shutter speed, which would overcome camera shake. The first posted Tamron image looks sharp in the center and soft on the edges. That could be the lens, or could be focus. The Tamron gets good reviews from this review:

Ken Rockwell

Of course, you could always have a bad copy of a good lens. I would recommend testing the lens at F/8 or F/5.6, and try for a lower ISO, around 100 or 200. You will either need a fair amount of light, or use a tripod to make sure that camera shake isn't inducing blur. I would prefer a tripod to ensure no shake. I would shoot a subject that is flat, say a fence or wall, and is parallel to the camera. That way you can make sure that the lens is sharp from center to edge, without focus being different between the two.

It's also possible that the Tamron needs to be adjusted for your camera. There is a procedure where you can fine tune auto focus of a lens. This is a one time procedure, and once you do it, the camera will automatically apply this adjustment whenever you use the lens with that camera.

 

[Bingo76]

Well, the last two you posted were taken at 1/40 sec, and appear to be very soft center to edge. My guess is camera shake. The first two were both sharp in the center, and were taken with a rather high shutter speed, which would overcome camera shake. The first posted Tamron image looks sharp in the center and soft on the edges. That could be the lens, or could be focus. The Tamron gets good reviews from this review:

Ken Rockwell

Of course, you could always have a bad copy of a good lens. I would recommend testing the lens at F/8 or F/5.6, and try for a lower ISO, around 100 or 200. You will either need a fair amount of light, or use a tripod to make sure that camera shake isn't inducing blur. I would prefer a tripod to ensure no shake. I would shoot a subject that is flat, say a fence or wall, and is parallel to the camera. That way you can make sure that the lens is sharp from center to edge, without focus being different between the two.

It's also possible that the Tamron needs to be adjusted for your camera. There is a procedure where you can fine tune auto focus of a lens. This is a one time procedure, and once you do it, the camera will automatically apply this adjustment whenever you use the lens with that camera.

Thanks for this. You're right I should have used a tripod, this could well be camera shake.

I'd done a lot of research about this lens - probably too much, maybe I was hoping for more lol
I'd actually shared my concerns with Perplexity (AI) a month or so back, and it took me through very similar steps. including setting up a tripod and taking picture of an ISO 12233 resolution test chart. I then sent these pictures back and it suggested the lens was fine - it seemed ok to me. I also did the fine tune tweaking as you suggested - for this lens I think my setting is -2 which gives the sharpest image.
Maybe I need to improve my camera holding position for group shots - I'm always shooting at 1:1600 / 2000 for my sports shots, so its never an issue there. As I say I just have this nagging feeling the lens isn't as it should be, hence why trying to get other more qualified opinions!

 

[Clovishound]

When shooting a group shot, you need to be as close to parallel to the line of the group as possible. Also, you want to focus about one third of the distance from the front of the group to the rear. This may require you to use manual focus. Fortunately, with group shots you should have plenty of time to set things up. You should be using a smaller aperture, like F/11 or F/16 if possible for maximum depth of field. I see you did this in your posted group shot. I would recommend a tripod for a group shot if practical, unless you have enough experience to ensure you will not have motion induced blur handheld.

It looks to me that in the group shot the right hand end of the line is sharper than the left hand side. This may be due to not being parallel.

 

[Bingo76]

Thank you for this. I don't typically have a tripod to hand, as these are spur of the moment end of game shots. And (silly I know) if I were to grab a tripod I feel it would imply I'm more of a professional than I am (just a hobbyist dad).
Interesting about the parallel-ness. I was pretty sure I was, but will pay more attention next time. The one side being sharper than the other is why I have the nagging 'something isn't quite right' feeling about the lense - but as you say maybe I just need to sharpen my attention to detail in framing the shot.
Thank you so much for your help - one last question, if I may? Should I continue to persevere with the Tamron for group shots or is the 35mm prime actually better for these? Maybe it's just a matter of trial and error, but a steer would be great. Thanks again!

 

[BF Hammer]

Kind of agreeing with Clovis here. On the 2nd batch, 1/40 sec is too slow really to judge. You have motion blur on those.

I asked the focus point on the first batch because the composition kind of shifted. If you were centered, the center did shift and focus different. I actually believe you had a different focus point going between the photos which made the difference.

A more positive test would be to set some obvious object in the scene and aim the camera putting the focus point directly on it. Get that shutter speed to 1/200 or faster to reduce the camera shake. You may want to switch to manual mode 1/200, f/8 and put the ISO to Auto so the camera can still adjust the overall exposure.

I bet the 2 lenses will test a lot closer to each other once the focus point is controlled to a specific object.

 

[Clovishound]

Thank you for this. I don't typically have a tripod to hand, as these are spur of the moment end of game shots. And (silly I know) if I were to grab a tripod I feel it would imply I'm more of a professional than I am (just a hobbyist dad).
Interesting about the parallel-ness. I was pretty sure I was, but will pay more attention next time. The one side being sharper than the other is why I have the nagging 'something isn't quite right' feeling about the lense - but as you say maybe I just need to sharpen my attention to detail in framing the shot.
Thank you so much for your help - one last question, if I may? Should I continue to persevere with the Tamron for group shots or is the 35mm prime actually better for these? Maybe it's just a matter of trial and error, but a steer would be great. Thanks again!

If you are shooting in daylight, a tripod should not be necessary, just make sure to use a fast enough shutter speed, and pay attention to shutter release technique. As to which lens to use, I would say that the 35mm prime would be the lens of choice for me, assuming you have enough room to get everything in frame without needing a wider lens. It should be the sharper of the two, being not only a prime vs a zoom, but also a Nikon brand. I'm not being Nikon snobbish here, it's just that across the board, Nikon brand lenses are often sharper than their 3rd party counterparts. Of course it comes at a higher price point. Having said that, many 3rd party lenses are excellent performers.

 

[Bingo76]

That's great - appreciate both your replies. I'll use the 35mm for the next team pic, and see how I get on.
Thanks again folks!

 

[BF Hammer]

If you are shooting in daylight, a tripod should not be necessary, just make sure to use a fast enough shutter speed, and pay attention to shutter release technique. As to which lens to use, I would say that the 35mm prime would be the lens of choice for me, assuming you have enough room to get everything in frame without needing a wider lens. It should be the sharper of the two, being not only a prime vs a zoom, but also a Nikon brand. I'm not being Nikon snobbish here, it's just that across the board, Nikon brand lenses are often sharper than their 3rd party counterparts. Of course it comes at a higher price point. Having said that, many 3rd party lenses are excellent performers.

I once had that 35mm f/1.8 lens. It's not that outstanding. Probably in the same class as the Tamron SP 24-70 f/2.8 Di