Why background.

[donaldjledet]

In this photo why is background and sky so bright?
Even the sky isn't blue?
Thanks

 

[Don Kuykendall_RIP]

is the horse black? It looks like you possibly had spot metering on and the horse was black or at least very dark. The camera had to overexpose to make the horse lighter.

 

[donaldjledet]

Yes the horse was black

 

[donaldjledet]

See here is another one just a few horses later.

 

[BackdoorArts]

While matrix metering is supposed to consider the entire frame, it places heavier weight on the focus area. So I suspect the black horse caused the camera to over expose the image.

 

[480sparky]

Camera Maker: NIKON CORPORATION
Camera Model: NIKON D7100
Image Date: 2014-03-09 17:04:54 (no TZ)
Focal Length: 35mm (35mm equivalent: 52mm)
Aperture: f/4.5
Exposure Time: 0.0031 s (1/320)
ISO equiv: 100
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No (enforced)
Orientation: Normal
GPS Coordinate: undefined, undefined
Creator: DONALDJLEDET PHOTOGRAPHY
Copyright: DONALDJLEDETPHOTOGRAPHY
Software: ViewNX 2.9 W

 

[donaldjledet]

While matrix metering is supposed to consider the entire frame, it places heavier weight on the focus area. So I suspect the black horse caused the camera to over expose the image.

I had the focus point on the horse. So it should be off of matrix metering?

Wow ya'll are good yes

 

[Don Kuykendall_RIP]

I had the focus point on the horse. So it should be off of matrix metering?

Wow ya'll are good yes

We have all had it happen to us in the past. Still do on occasion.

 

[BackdoorArts]

I had the focus point on the horse. So it should be off of matrix metering?

Wow ya'll are good yes

It's not so much that you should be in another mode as it is that you're going to have to expect results like this when you have contrast like you do. It happens a lot to me with birds in trees, so when I see it I'll usually hit up the exposure compensation and darken it a couple notches (-0.7). I also look at the histogram and as long as I'm not pummeling the high or low side I know I can tame it in post.

 

[donaldjledet]

Well what would be the right metering setting for cases with dark horses?

 

[Mike D90]

What I do sometimes is meter the ground, some green grass or something kind of neutral colored that is in the same light as the scene I am shooting. Hold the exposure using the half press of the shutter button, or take note of the exposure values and set manually, or use the exposure lock button function and then recompose/focus as you want to see the shot framed.

That way you meter something that is neutral and not some thing dark or super bright.

The camera wants to expose everything it meters as a neutral gray (called 18% gray). If you meter something really dark it bumps up the exposure to make the dark object 18% gray which blows out your sky. If you meter something really bright, like the sky, the camera bumps down the exposure to make the sky 18% gray and makes your dark objects really dark or even black.

As said before matrix metering tries to consider the information that is in the entire frame but, as Jake pointed out, will usually bias its decision towards whatever was/is in the focus area which is usually never the neutral part of the scene.

This is why some people use a gray card (18% gray card) to use as a metering target. Placed in the same light as what is hitting your main subject , fill the lens/viewfinder with the gray card, half press the shutter button and you will see what the correct exposure should be for that scene. Compare that reading with a reading taken off of your subject or off the sky. Adjust accordingly or bracket some shots that average the values from all readings.

Once you have done this a few times you will have a better understanding of exposure. Then learn your exposure compensation button. When you meter something dark with a very bright background or sky you will know to dial in possibly +1.5 to +2.0 EV to adjust the exposure. If you are shooting something bright against a dark background or sky you would dial in maybe -1.5 to -2.0 EV.

 

[donaldjledet]

OK Thanks

 

[Mike D90]

I think I added to the post after you read it. Check it again

 

[480sparky]

On a cloudless day, you could easily set exposure to manual, adjust shutter speed & aperture to taste, and shoot for an hour and not worry about exposure.

 

[Scott Murray]

Set your exposure compensation to under expose a stop or two, this is what I had to do with black mountain gorillas in Rwanda.

 

[WayneF]

Well what would be the right metering setting for cases with dark horses?

It is not really the metering mode (however Spot would be worst case). Both Center and Matrix will do that too.

Beginners like to imagine they can simply point the camera and the camera meter will always get it right (point & shoot).

But in real life, it simply does not work that way. Reflected meters (in cameras) simply try to put everything in the middle, not too dark, not too bright.

A scene with much black or dark subject will overexpose (your first picture is simply overexposed).

A scene with much white or light subject area will underexpose.

The meter is too dumb to recognize a black horse from a pink elephant, it just sees a blob of light. Which it can meter, but both cases are simply aiming for a middle ground, not too dark, not too light.

See How light meters work for the idea. (information very necessary to learn)

We just watch what it does, and we correct a bit as needed with Exposure Compensation (or Flash Compensation).

A little experience (and a little thought) will easily learn to predict this in advance when we first see the scene. Which is the skill that photographers learn.

 

[BackdoorArts]

Wayne has pretty much nailed it - there are just some scenes that are not meter friendly. In my experience, on a bright day shooting a little dark is far preferable to shooting a little bright, so I'll usually set the Exposure Compensation down a click or two, knowing that I can brighten dark areas far more easily than I can darken blown-out whites. When you see all these great photos everywhere you need to realize that they have been properly "developed" afterwards. You don't get magic from a DSLR, but you can make magic. (I think I need to put that on a t-shirt)

 

[STM]

Why? Because the image is at least a full stop to a stop and a half overexposed. If you were metering off the black horse, he meter will attempt to try to set the exposure of that area to Zone V (18% gray). The horse here is at least Zone IV or even Zone III in the areas which are not reflective. This is easily fixed in post processing:

 

[ShootRaw]

Everyone has pretty much said it..Go a few clicks to the left of the light meter..You could invest in a polarizer for your bright days as well(to retain color in the sky)..As long as the sun is coming in at the left or right of the scene..

 

[donaldjledet]

Yes thanks for all the replies.
Learned something again.
Thanks guys