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  1. #31
    Senior Member
    Danno's Avatar

    Re: A trip inside the D810 to fix it.

    Quote Originally Posted by D200freak View Post
    Airshow today. I put close to 3000 shots on the D810 and it never failed to do what it's supposed to do. I put an additional 500 shots on the D800, so I made my task of editing excess photos VERY tough on myself. 3500 in one day? Seriously?

    I might be wise to move the mode dial off Ch and set it to S instead.

    Congratulations. I am glad it worked out so well for you. Look forward to seeing some photos.


    › See More: A trip inside the D810 to fix it.
    Dan~~Kentucky

    "The natural man must know in order to believe; The spiritual man must believe in order to know. " ~ Aiden Wilson Tozer ~ "The Dwelling Place of God"

    Nikon Z 6 Nikon D7200 w/Grip, Nikon D700 w/Grip, AF-S Nikkor 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR, Nikon 14-24 f/2.8, Nikkor 50mm/1.8G, Tamron 28-75, Tamron 70-200 F/2.8
    Yongnuo Speedlight YN568EX, Vanguard ALTA Pro 264AB Tripod, Vanguard
    SBH-100 ball head Beike Gimbal Head, ARCA Swiss B1 ball head

    https://www.dailywalkinthelight.com



  2. #32
    Senior Member

    Re: A trip inside the D810 to fix it.

    Not sure where to put this but this little bit of information should be handy for any of you who find that you never completely trust your camera strap.

    Look carefully at the strap eyelets in the body of your Nikon DSLR camera. If you look very closely, you will see that they actually have a steel insert in them which reduces the diameter of the holes, and is presumably there to make them last longer.

    I'm always seeking a really secure way to attach a strap to a camera. I find that I pretty much don't trust any regular strap attachment system.

    In the firearms accessories department of your local wal-mart, or on amazon, or maybe your local gun store, you can buy a set of Uncle Mike's QD 115 quick disconnect sling adapters for about 10 dollars. They're very, very, VERY secure.

    They can be used as your camera end connectors for a new strap made by your local custom leather/canvas goods shop.

    But the catch is, for you to use the Uncle Mike's QD sling adapters, those steel liners have to come out of the camera strap mounts.

    That will require a certain amount of creativity and ingenuity on your part. I've removed them from my cameras and I've had to drill out some using a tapered pin reamer in a cordless drill, or had to go to a regular (carefully sized) drill bit for another one, and one I eventually just had to kind of break up with a pair of sharp nosed diagonal cutters once I got a grip on the end of the sleeve.

    In all cases, no damage was done to the camera or to the strap mount, but if you wanted to restore it to original condition you'd have to find an exact match for the original spring steel expanding liners, and I'm not quite sure what the industry trade name is for them. They would then need to be slightly swaged on both ends to hold them in the eyelet, which is why they're a bit of a challenge to remove.

    With these QD connectors attached to the camera, and a suitable camera strap made to fit the QD connectors, you now will have a strap system that will be stronger than the mounts on the camera itself, if the person who makes the strap knows how to sew properly.

    For camera strap material, use seat belt webbing. It's incredibly strong AND comfortable. there's nothing better for a camera strap.
    Gear list: Too much! D810, D800, D200x3, D5000, D70S, D40.
    Lenses: Nikon FX; 200-500mm, 14-24mm, 80-400mm, 24-85mm, DX, 18-55mm, 55-200mm, 55-300mm, 35mm, 35-70mm, Tamron 150-600mm, a few random others. Atomos Ninja 2 video recorder, Vello angle grip, Manfrotto quick releases and tripd

  3. #33
    Senior Member
    Danno's Avatar

    Re: A trip inside the D810 to fix it.

    Quote Originally Posted by D200freak View Post
    Not sure where to put this but this little bit of information should be handy for any of you who find that you never completely trust your camera strap.

    Look carefully at the strap eyelets in the body of your Nikon DSLR camera. If you look very closely, you will see that they actually have a steel insert in them which reduces the diameter of the holes, and is presumably there to make them last longer.

    I'm always seeking a really secure way to attach a strap to a camera. I find that I pretty much don't trust any regular strap attachment system.

    In the firearms accessories department of your local wal-mart, or on amazon, or maybe your local gun store, you can buy a set of Uncle Mike's QD 115 quick disconnect sling adapters for about 10 dollars. They're very, very, VERY secure.

    They can be used as your camera end connectors for a new strap made by your local custom leather/canvas goods shop.

    But the catch is, for you to use the Uncle Mike's QD sling adapters, those steel liners have to come out of the camera strap mounts.

    That will require a certain amount of creativity and ingenuity on your part. I've removed them from my cameras and I've had to drill out some using a tapered pin reamer in a cordless drill, or had to go to a regular (carefully sized) drill bit for another one, and one I eventually just had to kind of break up with a pair of sharp nosed diagonal cutters once I got a grip on the end of the sleeve.

    In all cases, no damage was done to the camera or to the strap mount, but if you wanted to restore it to original condition you'd have to find an exact match for the original spring steel expanding liners, and I'm not quite sure what the industry trade name is for them. They would then need to be slightly swaged on both ends to hold them in the eyelet, which is why they're a bit of a challenge to remove.

    With these QD connectors attached to the camera, and a suitable camera strap made to fit the QD connectors, you now will have a strap system that will be stronger than the mounts on the camera itself, if the person who makes the strap knows how to sew properly.

    For camera strap material, use seat belt webbing. It's incredibly strong AND comfortable. there's nothing better for a camera strap.
    Hey, how did the air show go. Is the 810 working ok?

    Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk
    Dan~~Kentucky

    "The natural man must know in order to believe; The spiritual man must believe in order to know. " ~ Aiden Wilson Tozer ~ "The Dwelling Place of God"

    Nikon Z 6 Nikon D7200 w/Grip, Nikon D700 w/Grip, AF-S Nikkor 200-500mm f/5.6E ED VR, Nikon 14-24 f/2.8, Nikkor 50mm/1.8G, Tamron 28-75, Tamron 70-200 F/2.8
    Yongnuo Speedlight YN568EX, Vanguard ALTA Pro 264AB Tripod, Vanguard
    SBH-100 ball head Beike Gimbal Head, ARCA Swiss B1 ball head

    https://www.dailywalkinthelight.com

  4. #34
    Senior Member
    rocketman122's Avatar

    Re: A trip inside the D810 to fix it.

    Quote Originally Posted by D200freak View Post

    I'm always seeking a really secure way to attach a strap to a camera. I find that I pretty much don't trust any regular strap attachment system.

    .
    are you talking about replacing the holes int eh camera
    A trip inside the D810 to fix it.-untitled-1-copy.jpg

    or the triangles
    A trip inside the D810 to fix it.-_35.jpg

    or the straps themselves
    A trip inside the D810 to fix it.-c1004327701_big.jpg

    I dont use QD straps so no worries there. do you think the holes in the camera arent strong enough?

  5. #35
    Senior Member

    Re: A trip inside the D810 to fix it.

    Yes, the D810 has worked great for me for two airshows in a row now. I sometimes wonder if AF is properly calibrated but enough pictures come out razor sharp that I think it's fine. I think it's too much to expect autofocus to be absolutely perfect all the time.

    I have tried MANY ways of making a totally secure strap system and my final answer is to leave the tension sleeves in the strap mounts right where they are. Use the Nikon provided triangle rings and run the connector end of the Uncle Mike's sling swivel adapters through the triangle rings. There's absolutely no chance of any hardware failing before the camera is badly broken with this setup.

    I've been making up a list of product improvement suggestions to send to Nikon. I am sure that I could tell them how to improve their cameras and make them more durable and less likely to get DESTROYED in an accident.

    For one, they need to go back to the magnesium alloy front shell. It'd be better to make the BACK shell out of platic and leave the front in metal, because of the improved stiffness of the magnesium alloy.

    Two, they should make the lens mount so that it can be knocked off in a fall, using screws that are designed to break BEFORE the whole lens box breaks, so repair would consist of extracting the specially designed "safety screw" remains, and screwing the lens mount back on with new safety screws.

    Three, they could stand to apply some waterproofing coatings to at least the main PC board. Conformal coating is not expensive.

    Four, let's see some more liberal use of gaskets to keep water out!

    Five, I want to see more lenses with electronic apertures. With the option to "declick" the aperture via a simple menu setting change.

    Six, time to start thinking about incorporating electronic zoom functionality into Nikon's DSLRs. Zoom with precisely calibrated focus, aperture, and shutter speed tracking, no less.

    Seven, I want to see the 14-24mm F/2.8 lens updated with an electronic aperture and VR. SWEET.

    Eight: If Nano Coat is so great, why isn't it being used in more lenses and on more elements in those lenses?
    Thanks/Like aporodagon, Danno Thanks/liked this post
     
    Gear list: Too much! D810, D800, D200x3, D5000, D70S, D40.
    Lenses: Nikon FX; 200-500mm, 14-24mm, 80-400mm, 24-85mm, DX, 18-55mm, 55-200mm, 55-300mm, 35mm, 35-70mm, Tamron 150-600mm, a few random others. Atomos Ninja 2 video recorder, Vello angle grip, Manfrotto quick releases and tripd

  6. #36
    Senior Member
    Photowyzard's Avatar

    Re: A trip inside the D810 to fix it.

    D200freak......

    You are MY HERO!

    Well done!
    Nikon D850, Nikon D800, Nikon F6, Nikon F5, Nikon F3, Nikon F1, Nikon FM2n w/Grip
    Nikon 24mm f1.8G, 50mm f1.4G, 105mm f2.8G, 300mm f4D, 400mm f3.5, 500 f8 C, 85mm f2, 16-35mm f4 VR, 70-300mm, 85mm f1.4G, 200-400mm f4 VR, 24-70mm f2.8G
    Nikon 200TC, 300TC, 1.4E TC, 1.7E TC || Nikon Speedlite 910, Nikon Speedlite 700
    Nikon 1 J1, Nikon 10-30mm, 30-110mm
    Nikon 1 J4, Nikon 10-30mm
    Tamron 150-600mm

  7. #37
    Senior Member
    Roy1961's Avatar

    Re: A trip inside the D810 to fix it.

    a great read, doing things I would just never attempt.
    Learn to laugh at yourself, everyone else is.
    D500, D7000. SB700.

    Nikkor 18-105mm, 35mm, 70-300mm and Sigma 50-500.

    LowePro 202 Slingshot bag, Wimberley Gimbal head, Benro Carbon Fiber Tripod.

    Vanguard Alta 263 Tripod with SBH-250 ballhead, Vanguard AM 263 Monopod with SBH-100 ballhead.

  8. #38
    Junior Member

    Re: A trip inside the D810 to fix it.

    Excellent thread and bravo on picking up such a challenging project.

    I had question for you, since you seem to have tore down a few cameras by now, have you buy any chance opened up a D750? I'm kind of in a dilemma right now to return my D750 in exchange for a D810 for the better build quality and supposedly longer rating on the shutter mechanism.

    After reading your post ofcourse, I'm a little surpised to see its got a plastic front frame, does the D810 really have any advantage over the D750 as far as build/longevity of the camera (body and shutter mechanism).

  9. #39
    Junior Member

    Re: A trip inside the D810 to fix it.

    Thanks for writing up your 'adventure' into the D810. I was on a bicycling trip with my D810 recently and got a lot of perspiration on the back display. Eventually the display stopped working completely. I continued to take images assuming the perspiration did not affect the image capture functions. Once I got home I found I was right. All the images i captured after the display malfunction were just fine and recorded on the CF card.

    I have now disassembled my D810 using your tips and found salt deposits on the connectors and other areas around the display. I intend to clean this in hopes of restoring the display function.
    After Action Report – No Go. I cleaned and reassembled and tested twice. Display still does not show any signs of life for either menus or file playback. Wonder what Nikon will charge for this repair…?
    DW the Old EW

  10. #40
    Senior Member

    Re: A trip inside the D810 to fix it.

    I haven't been in here for quite some time, sorry. I seem to not get post notifications via email or I'd have answered before.

    No, I don't have any experience with the D750.
    Gear list: Too much! D810, D800, D200x3, D5000, D70S, D40.
    Lenses: Nikon FX; 200-500mm, 14-24mm, 80-400mm, 24-85mm, DX, 18-55mm, 55-200mm, 55-300mm, 35mm, 35-70mm, Tamron 150-600mm, a few random others. Atomos Ninja 2 video recorder, Vello angle grip, Manfrotto quick releases and tripd





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