Nikon D7100 and Yongnou 560iii

Vixen

Senior Member
Please help......

I am trying to use a Yongnou d7100 flash with my d7100 and I am only getting half an image when I take a photo.
1. Is it possible to use this flash with this camera?
2. How do I stop the 1/320 flash synch restriction? If I use a shutter of less than 1/320 I get a full image so I suspect this is what is causing the problem

I'm having no luck finding the answer anywhere online, so I hope one of you can help me out
 

Geoffc

Senior Member
Please help......

I am trying to use a Yongnou d7100 flash with my d7100 and I am only getting half an image when I take a photo.
1. Is it possible to use this flash with this camera?
2. How do I stop the 1/320 flash synch restriction? If I use a shutter of less than 1/320 I get a full image so I suspect this is what is causing the problem

I'm having no luck finding the answer anywhere online, so I hope one of you can help me out

It doesn't support high speed synch so that's your max. You can do tricks with pocket wizard radio triggers but the real fix is to get a Nikon flash that supports it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

rocketman122

Senior Member
1/250 is as high as you can go that is max sync speed , just shoot auto with the flash

what AUTO? AA flash mode? thyristor auto? or camera P auto?

OP-the flash is a great manual flash and can also work with the worse-slaves-created-ever yn603/II as it has it built in.
 

John P

Senior Member
Vixen,
I don't know what your shooting condition were. I have found that 1/250 sync. speed works for most of my shooting needs.
But if your condition requires a faster shutter speed. You can use an ND filter to gain slower shutter speeds.
 

Vixen

Senior Member
Vixen,
I don't know what your shooting condition were. I have found that 1/250 sync. speed works for most of my shooting needs.
But if your condition requires a faster shutter speed. You can use an ND filter to gain slower shutter speeds.

I was hoping for slightly faster shutter speed for macro work. But being totally new to flash photog I understand you get distortion with higher flash speeds????
 

yauman

Senior Member
Please help......

I am trying to use a Yongnou d7100 flash with my d7100 and I am only getting half an image when I take a photo.
1. Is it possible to use this flash with this camera?
2. How do I stop the 1/320 flash synch restriction? If I use a shutter of less than 1/320 I get a full image so I suspect this is what is causing the problem

I'm having no luck finding the answer anywhere online, so I hope one of you can help me out

Vixen,

Read this page here about Nikon's Flash system and why the limit of 1/250 for manual flash and what Nikon's High Speed Sync is all about. I have a SB700 and with my D7100, I can go to 1/8000 shutter on highspeed sync (It really drains the batteries fast!)
 

WayneF

Senior Member
I was hoping for slightly faster shutter speed for macro work. But being totally new to flash photog I understand you get distortion with higher flash speeds????

Just out of interest......what shutter speed is the fastest you can use on your Nikon flash? I can't afford Nikon prices, which is why I don't have one.

Shutter speed limitation does NOT depend on which flash is used. The issue is the focal plane shutter, with ANY flash.
The D7100 at 1/250 second maximum shutter sync speed with flash is one of the few fastest ones.

The first thing to be understood is that the Speedlight is called a speedlight because it is VERY fast.
At macro distances (low flash power), the flash duration is much faster than any shutter speed.

The 1/250 second shutter duration may seem relatively slow, but if the flash light duration only lasts 1/20,000 second and then it is dark the rest of the time, then the flash stops any motion, with an effective 1/20000 second exposure duration.

A speedlight is the way High Speed Photography is done. See Capability of flash units for high speed photography

My suggestion is that your macro photos have absolutely no problem with motion blur, because the speedlight flash is fast enough to prevent it. If you had FP flash, it is continuous light (no longer a speedlight) and you give that up. And continuous sunlight can blur it too, but give the speedlight a try, it will be great.

See Four Flash Photography Basics we must know - Maximum Shutter Sync Speed about Maximum shutter sync speed with flash.

There are flashes than can do FP flash mode... which is NO LONGER a speedlight.
See Four Flash Photography Basics we must know - Auto FP and HSS about FP flash mode (which is faster shutter, but very slow flash (no longer a speedlight). This Yongnuo cannot do FP, but if imagined important, the YN568EX can do FP flash. There are major downsides to FP flash, a very different flash mode, with much more to it than shutter speed.
 
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yauman

Senior Member
Vixen, here's something you can try. Set your flash in manual mode - than use the flash power setting to determine the "speed".
I understand you are doing macro photography and yes when you are really close up in macro mode any slight vibration will cause blurr and that's why you want high shutter speed. When speedlite is set to manual mode, the power setting determines how long the light pulse last - from 1/1000 sec at 1/1 power to 1/10,000 sec at 1/16 power to 1/40,000 sec at 1/128 power in the case of the Nikon SB700 (other brands differs.) Now, use that fact to capture the image at high speed.

1. Set your aperture for the depth of field you need for the subject and in macro, you don't have much leeway.
2. Set your ISO at the lowest setting (100 in the D7100)
3. Set shutter speed at anything below the FP limit - 1/200 or 1/250 is good. When using Flash in this mode, your shutter speed controls only the exposure of the background and not the subject of interest.
4. Remove all room light or background light.
5. Turn OFF speedlite and take a shot. You should see a black or almost black frame (you'll need to turn off AF also and manual focus.)
6. Now, turn on speedlite, set to manual mode - start at 1/8 power and then go up or down in power in subsequent shots to get the right exposure. If you go all the way up to 1/1 power and still is underexposed, up the ISO by 1 stop. and repeat.
The time length of the light pulse given off by the speedlite determines the exposure time of the image - not your shutter speed and given that even at the max power (longest time) the pulse is only 1/1000 sec, you are effectively capturing the image at 1/1000 sec to 1/40,000 sec speed - guarantee no blurr!! This is how high speed photography is done - we leave the shutter open (B-setting) in a dark room and some event (sound of gun etc) fires the strobe and capture flying bullets at 1/250,000 sec!!!

Now, this method works only if your background is far away - further than the coverage range of your speedlite or if not possible, have a plain grey or black seamless backdrop - sheet of felt is good.

Have fun experimenting.
 

FastGlass

Senior Member
Just out of interest......what shutter speed is the fastest you can use on your Nikon flash? I can't afford Nikon prices, which is why I don't have one.
The camera is what determines the flash sinc speed not the flash. On most cameras the sinc speed is either 1/200th or 1/250th. When ever mixing brands together ( nikon camera, Yongnou flash, sigma lense or any other combination you will loose some features that will give you the full benefit of all the features. Most people can live with out some of the features and settle on third party accessories to save money. And depending on what your buying, you can save alot. Problem is you may not know what will be effected until doing so which is why I always stick with Nikon everything.
 

Ironwood

Senior Member
Just out of interest......what shutter speed is the fastest you can use on your Nikon flash? I can't afford Nikon prices, which is why I don't have one.


The D7100 has a sync speed of 1/320th, I don't see why you can't use it at that with your YN560.
What is it you are wanting to photograph ?

I have the YN568 which has HSS, and I can use up to 1/8000th shutter speed on my D7100, but I have found for macro insects etc. any faster than 1/800 and I am far too underexposed. Maybe I can improve this if I spent some time experimenting with diffusers etc, but I never seem to be able to find the time to experiment too much.

I have actually found I am getting the best (easiest) results with macro insects using just the cameras onboard flash, shutter speed at 1/320 and a homemade diffuser stuck on the end of the lens.
With this simple, no-cost method (I got the foam for the diffuser out of the skip-bin) I am able to get results like these,

DSC_4879 (1).jpg


DSC_4507.jpg


DSC_4829.jpg


There are a few threads relating to this sort of thing over in the macro section of the "learning photography forum".
If you are interested, check them out, and don't be afraid to ask questions.
 

Vixen

Senior Member
Ah....Don....handheld macro of tiny insects plus unsteady hands. Was sorta hoping if I could get faster shutter speed I may get more chance of in focus shots and freeze moving targets.

Maybe I also just don't know what I am talking about coz I've never used flash before. My thinking may be all wrong :(
 

Vixen

Senior Member
Thanks everyone for the answers. I will have a good read of them tomorrow and play with the flashes a bit and see if I can sort myself out with them.

I'll be sure to let you know how I get on and will definitely stick my nose in and look around at the other sections of the forum to see what everyone is up to :)
 

Ironwood

Senior Member
I just had a memory about when I was first trying to use flash on my insect shots, I was getting frustrated by the shadow of the lens cutting off half of the insect if I was too close in.
This was caused by a combination of my 55mm macro and no diffuser out on the end of the lens. To get 1:1 magnification with the 55 macro, I had to have the lens only an inch or so from the subject which caused the shadow.
Maybe your problem is similar to this ?
 

Vixen

Senior Member
I just had a memory about when I was first trying to use flash on my insect shots, I was getting frustrated by the shadow of the lens cutting off half of the insect if I was too close in.
This was caused by a combination of my 55mm macro and no diffuser out on the end of the lens. To get 1:1 magnification with the 55 macro, I had to have the lens only an inch or so from the subject which caused the shadow.
Maybe your problem is similar to this ?

Not quite my problem. I'm using a Nikkor 105mm macro lens with an SB300 at the moment. It is quite good and works reasonably well for me at 1/320. I don't seem to suffer lens shadow. No....my main problem is I am unable to stay perfectly still. Doing handheld macro out in the bush means I am often twisted at odd angles, perched on rocks etc and as I can't be perfectly still on flat ground it's just harder in some situations. I just thought I might be able to get faster shutter speed to combat that. BUT....it looks like some of the advice & info I've been given will help me either overcome not being able to go over 1/320 or perfect using 1/320 to help eliminate the problem.

I'm feeling more hopeful than I was when I asked the initial question. ;)
 
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