Help! I still am having such a hard time with focus!

picturegirl

Senior Member
(I have read so many different things asked tons of people and I still cant get the focus right. What am I doing wrong! I have no problem up close its when Im outdoors with a large family. I have the 17-55 lens and d7000 camera. heres 2 pics from the same session
Chevyonne family 052.jpgChevyonne family 133.jpg
 

picturegirl

Senior Member
Upon further inspection Im wondering if its because my shutter speed is only 200 in the family pic, ugh so many settings I keep getting mixed up on.
 

Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
Upon further inspection Im wondering if its because my shutter speed is only 200 in the family pic, ugh so many settings I keep getting mixed up on.
Well the first shot is nice and sharp and the shutter speed for the chosen focal length is good on the second shot so I don't think it's a shutter speed issue. It could be that your lens is simply "soft" wide open as it is on the second shot. It could be that your "crushing" the shutter button as you take the shot. Try to make sure you preeeessss the shutter, not "stab it" when you take the shot.

If I were you I'd do some testing. Do a series of, say 5 or 10 shots in good, bright light at 17mm using f/5.6 of f/8 or so. Use a shutter speed of 1/250 or better if possible. Use the center-most focus point and make sure you're not crushing the shutter button when you take the shot. After you've taken these shots zoom the lens to say, 50mm or so and do another series of shots just like you just did at 17mm. Now sit down and compare them side by side: If all your shots at 17mm come out looking soft, but they all look sharp at 50mm you know the lens is soft when shooting wide.

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Moab Man

Senior Member
Agree with what fish said, I would add... mount the camera on a tripod or set it down with stabilization off. Use the self timer to trigger the picture. By 100% removing yourself from the equation you can definitively know if it's the equipment or yourself.
 

Bill16

Senior Member
I agree! It's best to find out the lens and camera limitations before assuming your causing it! Often lenses soften in the extreme end of a zoom, even on good lenses! Running the test on a tripod and timer is an excellent recommendation too! :D
 

Woodyg3

Senior Member
Contributor
It looks like the light is quite diffuse in the second shot. Soft light means soft focus. I'll add that I'm looking on a small monitor, so it's tough for me to gauge focus sharpness.
 

picturegirl

Senior Member
Yes lighting wasn't great so that's where I'm getting confused I'm not sure where to shoot. I've heard In the light or I've heard in shade I'm so confused sometimes 😳
 

nickt

Senior Member
Like the others suggested, do some testing. To add to those suggestions, I'll suggest using a cereal box or similar product for a target. Use one with various sizes of printing on it. This will make it easier to judge sharpness by how well you can read the printing. If you have a tripod, use it as suggested, but also be aware if it is a flimsy tripod, it will introduce a new set of problems.

Do some handheld testing too. After checking sharpness at various zooms and apertures, start dropping your shutter speed and see at what speed is too slow for YOU to hand hold. When you find that shaky point, start working on your release as horoscope suggested and try to get better. Zooming in on the printing on the box will help you identify camera shake. With camera shake, the printing on the box will look smeared rather than just out of focus or soft.
 

Lawrence

Senior Member
Having been through this curve of confusion I feel your pain.
The 1/200th of a second is plenty fast enough.
It may be your release technique or a "soft" spot in the lens as suggested but I would also try shooting with a smaller aperture (bigger f stop #) for greater depth of field, with a slower shutter speed to compensate for smaller aperture.

Oh and having been through this I can assure you it will all come right. The best way to learn and improve and REMEMBER is to have these issues - as insurmountable as they probably seem right now.
 
Everyone seems to have forgotten the most basic thing. The D7000 allows you to Fine Tune the auto focus. This is not super easy and it does take some time but I have found with both my D7000 and D7100 Fine tuning all the lenses really did make a big difference.

Also are you shooting RAW or JPEG? IF RAW the what software are you using to do the post processing.

IF JPEG then you might want to set your setting to get sharper photos by doing the following


If you are shooting JPG I would suggest that you use the Fine>>Large setting and also set your camera for better sharpness.



Go into your Menus and highlight the "Shooting" menu (the camera icon)

Drop down to "Picture Controls" and click right one time.

From here, highlight "Standard" and then click right one time.

From this settings menu, increase the "Sharpness" setting to "7".

Drop down and increase the "Saturation" setting +1 notch on the slider.

Press "OK" to exit the menus and you're done.



 

rocketman122

Senior Member
this has happened to me many times when I shoot weddings and ill tell you the reason why. its a few things. camera and human error. its the size of the sunject youre focusing on. in closeups the focus spot (the eye) has a nice big area to have enough contrast to focus on. when youre using the af on a picture like the second, the area youre focusing on is sourrounded by other things inisde it and if you didnt know the true af area isnt exact to the square you see in the viewfinder. meaning, the little square you see isnt exactly the exact size and placement of the black af area. its sometimes a bit off center then the specified shape. but this is only critical in certain situations.

this is my guess and is based on my experience. the problem in the 2nd picture is the focus slipped between then to the background. im assuming you used single af point and used the center one. you put the focus point on their faces but the area where their faces is so jumbled up with minute contrast areas that the accuracy can be off because the focus point is trying to focus on something there, but since theres so much info thats tiny and not exact it took a guess at the trees behind them. this has happened to me many times, but only when I shoot family formals when there are groups of people. the focus is much better when the area youre using your af spot on is big compared to the focus. the first one, the af has a nice large eye to focus on. the second, their heads and the baby and the trees are all jumbled up together. thats why when I shoot groups of people, I shoot, refocus, shoot, refocus, shoot refocus. and I focus on a different person each time. that way im certain to get a nice picture. they always ask me why are you moving the camera all over the place to take a picture? because I focus, hold the shutter half pressed, recompose and then shoot.

so the answer is you not being accurate with where you placed your focus and the camera because it has certain limits and when there are a lot of minute contrast points together its going to get confused.

btw, this is also true of the other end of the focus scale. when the sunject has too big of a focus area and the focus is off by a tiny margine. when I shoot family formals, I will shoot each and every family member by himself as well. full body, half body, then face, once in a lanscrape orientations and once in portrait orientation. but I have noticed the my focus point is sometimes off just slightly because I wasnt accruact on focusing the eye because the eye is bigger than the af spot in the camera. so my being slightly innacurate makes the camera focus more towards the nose or ear in the focus plane (if you know what im talking about)

its not the camera only. the camera can only do so much but it has limitations. you need to know its limitations and work around it. if you would have done a few shots with focus on the man woman and the baby, you would have had a properly focused shot.

Chevyonne family 133.jpg
 

picturegirl

Senior Member
Thank you, I shoot in raw and post process in photoshop. I also have continuous focus. I am going to attempt to remember everything you have all told me it's a lot of info. My biggest thing is to slow down and make sure I'm getting everything right that's an issue for me sometimes especially with kids I feel like I'm always rushed if I take my time and remember what I'm supposed to do I will have a better time. How do I adjust when I shoot in raw the fine tuning for sharpness?
 

Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
Thank you, I shoot in raw and post process in photoshop, <snip> How do I adjust when I shoot in raw the fine tuning for sharpness?
If you're asking about a an in-camera sharpness setting, like there is when you shoot JPG, there isn't one. All RAW image files require sharpening during post-processing; it's just another part of the job when you shoot RAW. Since you're using Photoshop I would suggest you create a new adjustment layer and then use Unsharp Mask. There are other options (High Pass Filter, Smart Sharpen, etc.) but I keep coming back to Unsharp Mask for sharpening my RAW files. Rather than try and teach you how to use USM in a post, I'm going to suggest you Google it, or hit Youtube, where you'll find lots and lots of video tutorials that will explain it better than I can.

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nickt

Senior Member
How do I adjust when I shoot in raw the fine tuning for sharpness?
I'm just keying in on two words here, 'fine tuning'. I want to be sure you are not confusing in camera sharpening of jpg with the 'fine tuning process that Don mentioned in post 12. Don was talking about fine tuning your auto focus. The need for focus tuning might come up in your testing. It is possible for your camera to focus slightly in front of or behind where the focus point lies and this can be adjusted if needed.
 

Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
Oh I know how to use it in photoshop I have before
Okay, good... That was easy.

In looking at your photo again, I stand by my prior assessment that we're looking at either a soft-shooting lens (my primary suspicion) or a technique issue. If it were some other problem I think I'd be able to find something in your shot that WAS in focus... And I'm not. Try as I might, I can't find a single thing in that shot that appears to be in sharp focus.

Considering the shutter speed, ISO and aperture used, and also the fact your shots are sharp when not shooting at 17mm, pretty much rules out everything but camera motion or a zoom lens shooting soft at it's widest focal length.

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Englischdude

Senior Member
i strongly recommend you print yourself out a focus chart and check the many instructions available with a simple online search for checking the focus. The D7000 had some focus issues (google "D7000 backfocus") and you will see what I mean. My D7000 went back to Nikon once, and then back to the shop for a full refund because of focusing issues. If you can rule out operator error and you can determine that it is backfocusing and you still have warranty, send it in for calibration. the AF fine tuning feature is there for just that... fine tuning, and not for compensating for sloppy factory calibration.
 
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