Post your Firework Photos

Whiskeyman

Senior Member
Lots of great shots posted. I did notice that no two seemed to have the same shutter speed even though ISO and aperture were the same. My question to anyone who posted here, are you using a cable release and a bulb shutter speed set? Hold the shutter open as long as there is "sparkles" in the air and then close it. I am assuming that is why the various shutter speeds.

I have to admit that I was too lazy to travel the 30 miles to try my hand at fireworks shots.

I also used bulb and a cable release. I tried using a set 4-8 second shutter release before, and it just didn't work.

WM
 

salukfan111

Senior Member
untitled (3 of 151).jpguntitled (9 of 151).jpguntitled (10 of 151).jpguntitled (20 of 151).jpguntitled (21 of 151).jpguntitled (23 of 151).jpguntitled (24 of 151).jpguntitled (27 of 151).jpguntitled (39 of 151).jpguntitled (40 of 151).jpguntitled (52 of 151).jpguntitled (53 of 151).jpguntitled (59 of 151).jpguntitled (62 of 151).jpguntitled (63 of 151).jpguntitled (75 of 151).jpguntitled (87 of 151).jpguntitled (94 of 151).jpguntitled (95 of 151).jpguntitled (97 of 151).jpg
I got stuck way too close and had to use a 10mm Roko. It turned out ok but the Zeiss 35mm f/2 Distagon is much better lens. Next Corn Festival I will be better prepared and secure a better spot.
 

salukfan111

Senior Member
I did last year and got light pollution from street lights along the bottom of the image, so tried to avoid that, it didn't work like I expected. I knew better but tried it anyway.
Your 24-85 and 18-35 are what you want. If you look towards the end of the thread I got stuck very close to the show and the only thing that saved me from my decision to just shoot with a 35 or 58mm was me throwing the 10mm Rokonin in the bag because I had room. In the future all I'll have is a 10mm Roko, 20mm f/1.8, 28mm voightlander, and Zeiss 35mm f/2. I shot a fourth with a 80-400G and ending up having to go back 6 blocks and missed half the show.
 

AxeMan - Rick S.

Senior Member
I have to wait till Sunday. Our town is having a fest July 4th - July 7th and is ending the fest with Fireworks. I'm going to be on a roof top shooting over roof tops about a 1/2 mile away. Did it last year and didn't turn out that bad
 

hark

Administrator
Staff member
Super Mod
Contributor
Bumping this thread in case anyone is interested in taking fireworks photos tonight. For those from other countries, here in the USA we celebrate July 4th (our Independence Day) with fireworks.

Here is a link to Scott Kelby's blog with some helpful info. https://scottkelby.com/how-to-take-great-fireworks-photos-this-weekend/

In that blog is this recent video. In a nutshell, he recommends starting with ISO 100, f/11, 4" shutter speed, a tripod, and a cable release. When the first fireworks go up, press the shutter actuation button halfway to focus. Then switch to manual focus since all the fireworks should be at the same distance. OR manually set your lens to infinity then back off the focusing just a little. He also says Dehaze in Lightroom/Camera RAW helps during post processing.

If anyone has other suggested settings, please feel free to post them. Some people might have their own preferred settings.

 

hark

Administrator
Staff member
Super Mod
Contributor
I asked in a Facebook photography group about sparkler photos with rear curtain sync and a rim light. Someone asked me if people don't tend to do steel wool fireworks for that sort of thing. So...I searched for it. *gulp* Wow!

Definitely do NOT attempt it around anything flammable. The guy wears cotton and eye protection as a precaution.

 

hark

Administrator
Staff member
Super Mod
Contributor
My harddrive is FULL, and since Photoshop is a big RAM hog, I'm not finishing my edits right now. But when I did attempt one, I quickly hit a hiccup with the brightness. Then I came across this Scott Kelby video which gives info on combining images to make what appears to be a finale as well as a couple different ways to edit individual fireworks images. One quick edit is to duplicate the image as a second layer then change the blend mode to screen (I think it's right before the 3-minute mark). He also explains how to edit them in Camera RAW.

 

hark

Administrator
Staff member
Super Mod
Contributor
Cindy, I'm not seeing anything other than a black box in your previous 2 posts. Are you able to see the vids on your end?

Yes - I even just logged out, went to the home page, then came back here and could still see both videos. Even after logging back in, they are visible. But it would be helpful if one or two other members let us know if they can see them.
 

cwgrizz

Senior Member
Challenge Team
I see them

Yes - I even just logged out, went to the home page, then came back here and could still see both videos. Even after logging back in, they are visible. But it would be helpful if one or two other members let us know if they can see them.
 

Dangerspouse

Senior Member
Yes - I even just logged out, went to the home page, then came back here and could still see both videos. Even after logging back in, they are visible. But it would be helpful if one or two other members let us know if they can see them.

Huh. I just checked the site on my wife's iPad and the videos are showing up there, so it must be a setting on my PC. Sorry 'bout that!
 

Marilynne

Administrator
Staff member
Super Mod
Contributor
My harddrive is FULL, and since Photoshop is a big RAM hog, I'm not finishing my edits right now. But when I did attempt one, I quickly hit a hiccup with the brightness. Then I came across this Scott Kelby video which gives info on combining images to make what appears to be a finale as well as a couple different ways to edit individual fireworks images. One quick edit is to duplicate the image as a second layer then change the blend mode to screen (I think it's right before the 3-minute mark). He also explains how to edit them in Camera RAW.


I see a grey box with a cloud and two circles under it, like it's thinking.
 
Top