D3100 Tips and settings

Will V|Photography

Senior Member
There isn't a "mode", just plug the shutter release into the camera and press the button. The D3100 does not support wireless shutter release so if you bought a wireless one then you need to get your money back. You need one that plugs into the side of the camera.

*Side note: they should make a wireless receiver that plugs into the side of the camera so we can use a wireless shutter release on the D3100...
 

Carolina Photo Guy

Senior Member
There isn't a "mode", just plug the shutter release into the camera and press the button. The D3100 does not support wireless shutter release so if you bought a wireless one then you need to get your money back. You need one that plugs into the side of the camera.

*Side note: they should make a wireless receiver that plugs into the side of the camera so we can use a wireless shutter release on the D3100...

Actually, I have a wireless shutter release and it works quite well.

I bought it off of Amazon. Its a no-name that plugs into the side of my D3100 into the wired cable release.

It costs around $15.00 if I remember correctly. :)
 

Iamoilcan

New member
I am trying to get into digiscoping.. I have a Nikon D3100 and three different lenses ... and on Saturday purchased a Vortex Razor HD Spotting scope.. as well as the Vortex camera adapter... I need help on camera settings.. when attached.. I am unable to get the camera to shutter... and have tried various settings... any ideas???
 

HAZNOSHAME

New member
I am trying to find out the appropriate settings for a D3100 for shooting indoor blue screen video. So often the video seems to be overexposed and not consistent from shoot to shoot...any suggestions? Thanks.. HAZ
 

thatbeat

New member
Hi,
Newbie here, just got my d3100 and love it so far, although I expected some better pictures after my old Sony camera was fairly decent, but only in perfect situations.

I was curious about some tips\settings on the following situations:
1) taking photos of a band in a nightclub\bar\concert hall

2) kids playing outside (lots of movement)

3) scenic vista pics- mountain ranges....

any help would be great! thanks!
 
Are you shooting JPEG or raw? If JPEG FINE then you can improve your shots out of the camera by adjusting the sharpness settings.

MENU>>Shooting MENU>>SET PICTURE COINTROL (Decide which option you want) Using right arrow control on picture control option you will see several options. Raise sharpening level to wherever you want.

You will need to do this for each one of the picture controls you plan to use. I would set each one of them just to be safe. Play with the options on the same subject matter to see what difference it makes. I you shoot raw these will not make any difference. You will do all your adjustment in Post Processing anyway.

Another tip is to make sure your shutter speed is high enough. The more you zoom in the faster shutter speed you will need. Keep an eye on it. a easy rule of thumb is the shutter speed should equal the focal distance. with the 18-55 that came with your camera your should try to shoot no slower than 1/60 second. This is something you can play with some as you get more experience.

The most important thing is to shoot lots of photos and look at the data and see what you did on the good ones and what you did on the bad ones and learn from it.
 

J_Murphy

Senior Member
I am looking for a little advice on use of smaller aperatures. What disadvantages can I expect by using very small aperatures of f22 up to f32. For example, I was shooting last night at dusk of a harbour scene with a lot of building, street and ship lights. I was on the other side shooting to try and capture the reflection of the lights on the water using aperature priority mode with low ISO to get a long exposure. However, the photos didn't come out as nice as I would have hoped. I was using a tripod. Any help/advice is appreciated.
 

AC016

Senior Member
Your aperture is far to small. You need to open your lens up alot more. F22 is not going to let a lot of light in. Even with a long exposure, light is going to have a hard time getting through that little hole to trasmit itself to the sensor. Having a low ISO is okay because you are doing a long exposure and there is no reason to have "noise" in a long exposure. There are lots of articles online that you can read to help you with night photography. In the mean time, open up your lens more.
 

stmv

Senior Member
the small aperature allows greater DOF, but as stated less light, and less exposure. every full Fstop is 1/4 smaller, every half Fstop is 1/2 smaller, which is why Cameras make the fstop openings in 1/2 steps, so each click (ok,, I am old fashion),, I mean spin of dial, changes the fstop by 1/2 and needs approx twice as much light for the same exposure. Also, the sweet spot of a lens for sharpness tends to be from F5.6 - F11 or so.. for absolute sharpness.

Yes, there is time to use F22, like when on a tripod, and you are trying to make that waterfall oh so creamy.

just like there are times you want maximum aperature opening like F2.8 or if you have a faster lens, 1.8, or more expensive even faster. 1.4,, or for chuckles 1.2, for that really narrow DOF, but really creamy background.

DOF -> depth of field,, think of it as this band front of the object and back of the object that is in focus.
 

Alecaldi

Senior Member
My experience so far:

I’ve started testing the D3100 with a scoped frame of work, since I had a busy weekend.
I’ve discovered my manual was only on Chinese (or Japanese, for that matter). Solved the problem downloading a .PDF of the manual, but still I couldn’t carry with me to the road. So, much of the time I was doing proof-trough-ballistic learning and common sense.

For the most part, I tested it with the Nikkor 70-300 f4/5.6 G, with no auto focus.

Results were mixed, maybe, due to the lack of proper knowledge about photography. Still happy, tough, but I am not sure if I should.

Observation:

1) Good results with Bokeh, but is not an easy task, and sometimes the relation between good shoot over total shoots is something around 1 to 8, especially if there’s not too much light. Burst mode improves dramatically the chances of taking a good pic (I have no good tripod yet) but a pro photographer told me that programmed obsolescence (or just they useful span of life) on these gears are measured on shoots. He considered that 100.000-150.000 shoots should do to kill it, and that repeatedly use of burst should somewhat lower that number. Still, ha has noted that I’ll be probably been buried six feet under a long time ago by the time this camera reaches those numbers.

2) Video recording with 70-300mm is either impossible without a tripod or of a pitiful quality. For a lots of reasons. Still narrow degree at 70mm and no VR.

3) To my dismay, using the 18-55mm kit lens, with a polarizer, also complicated thing at filming, even with good light (5pm at a beach on a very clear day, on summer). I’ve got to test it again without the C-PL, but I‘ll have to wait for another weekend. Or, maybe, I went for too much of ISO quality, but I can’t remember right now, and I’m not so sure of what I’m saying.

4) Forgot HDR for now. I’m shaking down the basic stuff yet. And I must find that gorilla tripod I bought two years ago and I can’t find now.

5) I overestimated the focus of polarizers, and which is more frustrating, the one that fits with the 70-300mm lens is takes more effort to rotate than the focusing ring of the lens itself. So, I have to do the whole maneuver with three fingers (one supporting the camera, the other stiffening the focus ring and the last one rotating the polarizer), which doesn’t bother me much, but makes the whole operation slower, and there’s a reasonable risk of letting a finger print on the CPL. Another solution I’ve got is to turn the polarizer only in one direction, still bothers, but much less. Btu I’d never imagined this would happen.

6) Quality is fine; I haven’t spent the time on compositing the pic, but rather tested the capabilities of the machine. The pics I post here, really, I don’t know if they well crafted; I like them, but I really don’t know if they were appropriately executed, and most importantly, if it is the top quality I can get with the D3100 and the glasses I have.

All of them were taken 4 - 4.5 mts from target, most of the time at 300mm with either automatic (the camera), or exposures around 1/250, (don’t remember the f right now).

7) Shooting with macro: I didn’t have the proper light, but tested anyways with the 18-55mm. Results were compelling, and I believe that I’m lacking somewhat to get the best; the success ratio was still low, around 1/8 from total pics. Again, I don’t have a macro flash, neither had the proper light. Something, in particular, took me by surprise: Working nearer to 55mm gave better results than working around 18mm. Something odd too me, backwards with my previous camera, a Sony DSC-F828. And being to much glass on the composition, more light only gave enormous amount of reflexion (didn’t have polarizer yet). Again, could be my bad, I don’t have the picture right now with me.

Sorry About the quality, but in the PC I am typing right now don't have a size reduction softwarem so i have to download them from facebook all over again.

1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg
 

MelodyTregear

Senior Member
Yes it does. It has a slot on the side you plug your cable remote into. I didn't have to do anything other than that. It is a big help. Especially if you don't have a steady hand :)
 

daley1

New member
Hi all I'm going to take some photos of the London Marathon this weekend and want to experiment with the manual settings rather than rely on the auto settings. Any hints for good settings for photographs of a runners??
 

Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
Hi all I'm going to take some photos of the London Marathon this weekend and want to experiment with the manual settings rather than rely on the auto settings. Any hints for good settings for photographs of a runners??
Use shutter speed to your advantage; don't afraid to blur your subject a little with a slower shutter. Panning your subject is a great technique that will help blur the background and give your shots a nice dynamic edge and a sense of motion without blurring out your subject. So in short I'd suggest you just be willing and ready to experiment with your shutter speed and panning at different shutter speeds.
 

daley1

New member
Use shutter speed to your advantage; don't afraid to blur your subject a little with a slower shutter. Panning your subject is a great technique that will help blur the background and give your shots a nice dynamic edge and a sense of motion without blurring out your subject. So in short I'd suggest you just be willing and ready to experiment with your shutter speed and panning at different shutter speeds.

Thanks will give it a go, just got into photography having bought the D3100 as my intro to it, must admit finding my way around all the manual settings is daunting but hoprfull of getting some good results.
 

WeeHector

Senior Member
For those getting into Manual mode for the first time, it is easy to forget about ISO settings and you find your shots horribly over- or under-exposed. You find yourself going into the menu to reset the ISO. My tip is to set the Function button to ISO and you have all 3 major settings at your fingertips: Command Dial (CD) for shutter speed, CD + aperture button for aperture and CD + Fn for ISO.
 
Learnt a lot from this thread, thanks to everybody for their input. I jumped straight into manual mode when I first got my d3100 and I realise now that I was in way over my head.

Back to basics it is then. :)
 
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