The speedlight would also work on the camera hot shoe, but these are for a fixed studio situation, and slightly more powerful (somewhat less than 2x more powerful), more versatile about mounting accessories (like softboxes, etc), and are AC powered.. Better than a speedlight for that use, but won't mount on camera.
Everyone needs a hot shoe flash for walk around bounce though, and if you have one, it can be used with these, as a third light, like for background or hair. It would need an optical slave on it, either builtin or external.
Unsure of your goals, assuming portraits and tabletop. The 100 watt seconds power is Not high power, but more than a speedlight, and it should normally be sufficient, at least indoors. It will be tremendously brighter and vastly more usable than the first continuous lights. Indoor portraits at (camera Manual mode M, with Auto ISO absolutely OFF) ISO 100 1/200 second and f/8 ought to be easy (very acceptable). You normally will have to turn the lights down some, and without a flash meter, finding that power level is the hard part, but trial and error gets there.. If too bright, turn it down. It does not say what its power steps are, so after getting it into ballpark, you may need to tweak in your camera aperture a third stop or two also. Studio lights (softboxes and umbrellas) are used rather close to the subject (like close as possible), for increased softness, but it also helps power. My own lights are 160 and 320 watt seconds, and I prefer the 160 except in a few bigger cases. There definitely are some bigger cases, but not normally indoor portraits or table top. Do think "CLOSE" however.
It is an economy model, and regarding its features, it says:
Voltage Regulated: No
Fan cooled: No
Auto Dump: No
Those would have been pluses. Auto Dump No means when you change power level on it, you have to flash it one time (to dump the old setting) before it changes to the new setting.
If your camera model does NOT have a PC sync port (and most do not any more), then you will need a hotshoe adapter to add PC sync. The Nikon AS-15 is a very good one (I use it), but there are slightly cheaper ones. Be sure whichever one has the locking wheel on the bottom, otherwise they slide a little, and lose contact and fail to trigger.
Error
You run the PC sync cord between camera and the near flash, and the other flash is triggered from its internal optical slave. There are other wireless ways you can buy, but this PC sync works fine if camera is on a tripod.
B&H is a very reputable dealer, and Impact is their house brand. Warranty is from B&H. That's a big plus, better than the no-name Ebay stuff.
Read the User comments there (on your link page). People seem satisfied with it. You can of course always spend more, and get more features and performance, life is like that.
I don't know your experience, so it's hard to say much. Regarding this type of flash, some people seem to never get it, and others take to it like a fish in water. I think any trouble is just failing to realize it is not point&shoot, but instead, everything is now up to them. If it is too bright, turn it down. That's not hard.
Maybe glance at
An Easy and Standard 45 degree Portrait Lighting Setup about initial setup plans for portraits.
I am talking without knowing the first thing about your situation, and I realize these are not yet your questions. Just trying for a head start.