First Wedding In June (Continued from Flashes Forum)

mrpbnm

Senior Member
@rocketman122 I will pick up our conversation from the Flashes Forum here. I'll answer your questions in blue italics font.


@mrpbnm
ok this is going to be long and obviously is from years of experience of trial and error.

see this-it will give you a direction.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INSwZEph8tA very nice

can you write me what gear cameras/lenses/flashes/slaves/stands/umbrella you have please?
there is no need to spend tons of money for flashes or slaves today. $1600. no way. not even a third to spend. those days are over and I have a feeling pocket wizard wont hold for more than two years since the chines slaves give excelletn slaves for very little money.

I have tons of flashes from an old school SB-28 thats a workhorse to an SB700/800/900 to the stellar yongnuo 5600III. its fast and very quick to recycle and when youre under stress sweating and people are waiting, 1 second of recycle time will feel to you like 5. tell me your gear and then well build something great for you.
Nikon D750
AFS NIKKOR 50 1.8 G
AFS NIKKOR 28-70 F2.8 G ED
AFS NIKKOR VR 70-200 F2.8 G
Nikon D5100
50mm f/1.8G AF-S NIKKOR
18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF-S DX VR NIKKOR
55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED IF AF-S DX VR NIKKOR
Vivtar DF 383 Speedlight
Yongnuo YN 560 Speedlight
Yongnuo YN 560 III Speedlight
2X Battery Pack for Yongnuo Speedlight
XCSOURCE® 16 Channel Wireless Radio Flash Trigger SET 1 Transmitter + 4 Receivers + 1 Sync Wire Cable
Cheetah stand 10ft height light stand
Light Stands 6.5ft height
2X Light Stands 10ft height
2X 32" silver reflective umbrella
2X 32" soft white umbrellas
Rogue FlashBender Large with Soft box attachment

what does the venue look like? how high is the ceiling? any website with gallery pics? theres so much to talk about but I will try to direct you with how I would handle it and make it the least expensive and most efficient. Please see the church photo attached from their wedding brochure.

we have time to get (till june) you all set up and talk about everything.

it says youre a pro. this your first wedding or paid event or do you shoot other things? that will tell me how detailed I need to explain. if I say something to a pro hell understand better than a hobbyist. just want to know how experienced so I know what you might know or not. In my day job, I am a videographer also have been taking photos the past 3 1/2 years. Photos of corporate events, newsletter coverage, headshots in studio using strobes, etc. I started my side photography business this past fall. I have done a few paid Family Portrait sessions. This wedding job is a referral from one of those.

regarding your previous post. yes, I use flashes on the dance floor and for the ceremony and family formals. btw Im not in the US. family formals is between 6:30-8. then guests arrive. and the ceremony here usually starts at 9:30 in the evening. then dancing till 1-3 in the morning. are you from the US? events dont go that long and the ceremony usually is in a different place from the reception. you have to check those details of the ambient light there, if you can use flash or the rules they set in the church or wherever it is. I am in the U.S. The contract calls for 8 hours of coverage starting 2 hours before the wedding. The reception will be in the convention center (see photos). Looks like there will be fairly low white ceilings and white(ish) walls.

basically what youll need is
-2 cameras highly suggest FF. not smart to work with one DX and one FF but what you have is what you have.
-lenses 3 are a must/ UWA zoom-midrange zoom-tele zoom and I mean pro level 2.8. a 50 and 85 1.8's would also be great. I will buy a second D750 when they come back on the market and then send mine in for recall repair.
-flashes two for the cameras that can be from the yongnuo 568/565 to the SB910. commander mode is not needed at all. CLS is useless and unreliable. only radio slaves to trigger. HSS..possibly needed, although I havent used it yet for any picture.
-slaves-PW to me are not relevant today with the tons of options from yongnuo pixel king and phottix. nothing the 622n cant do for a 4th of the price. more convenience and more more feastures actually. distance is bullshit. never had a situation where I needed to shoot more than 100ft from my flashes and the 622n can do more than that reliably time after time. plus AF assist beam is excellent if you need it. get back to me and well continue

I look forward to your reply, to understand what more equipment and what techniques I need apply.
Many Thanks! mrpbnm
 

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rocketman122

Senior Member
regarding your gear, youre pretty much set with the lenses and cameras. 2 d750..sweet.

theres a few things we need to discuss
-low ceiling which is perfect for on camera bounce flash but not ideal to use off camera flashes on stands. this is far different than venues like they showed in the fstoppers video I linked previously and usually I shoot in those kind. not barns but very high ceilings and dj lights that are everywhere, like in the pics

after its all said and done copy.JPGNKT_3072 copy.JPG

they look more like discoteques then a venue youre going to shoot. there is a great ambient feel that gives a great dance atmosphere. both were shot at the end of the wedding when everyone went.

I did shoot a wedding that had a very low ceiling similar to your setup. it was dark and I used 3 flashes on stands and shot them towards the center at 1/32 power. problem is this, youre going to be shooting people that are all over and no matter how best you try, youll get images of people dancing with the flash creeping in from the back. not much you can do but depending on the height of the flashes, either stand on your toes and angle the lens down a bit or bend your knees and let the flash hide behind them when you shoot.

im guessing the top two are where the food and dancing will take place? if there is a DJ and he brings light then that will help with adding a dance feel to the pictures, otherwise it will look quite bland with flash and the boring light I see they have in the images. you can add gels to the off camera flashes that will paint the area while the flash on your camera will light their faces so you can create a dance feel.

personally, Id play it by ear. if the dj has some lights then setup two flashes on opposing sides to make a square and gel them with a light yellow orange or red. ne on each flash. use your on camera flash bounced straight up with white card out.

flashes. only problem I see is an on camera flash that youre missing. yes the 383 is a decent flash but not fast enough. you have the xcsource transmitter connected to the pc sync port of the flash to fire, correct? Id suggest you get 1-2 more of the transmitter for backup. you never know. personally, I would not feel confident going into this with the 383. it has its place but not in the fast paced wedding world.

I only use nikon flashes on the camera. SB800 SB700 or an SB900. I feel they are the best with exposure accuracy. all due considering, no flash is great and I think MFR still have a LONG way to go with accuracy but thats another topic. youll have to adjust as you see fit. if the flash is too strong, I dont close the aperture, I adjust the exposure from the flash because I want the aperture to let in enough ambient light. my goal is always to blend ambient with flash. keep the ambient by keeping the aperture the same but lower the flash power to match the ambient (as much as you can) and ligt the subject properly.

you can go with a yongnuo 565 568 or you might consider one of shanny's flashes like this
Shanny SN600N 1/8000S i-TTL GN60 Flash for Nikon | ThePhotoGadget.com
the flagship model for nikon will be available around april.

for me though, on camera, only nikon, off camera, doesnt matter. the 560 are fast enough.

church, I have no idea what the rules will be so you will need to ask. take a monopod wiht you just in case you have low lighting and you can only shoot from the back. either the 70-200 on the DX or use the D750 and bump up the iso. I have no idea, youll need to verify.

not sure how comfortable you are but I shoot normally at no less than iso 3200 indoors and the D3s can do 8000 pretty decently. these are dancing pictures and not exactly so important. you might have a situation where theyre going to turn off all lights and youll be shooting in the dark and only with the dj lights there. be prepared to have the flashes setup JIC and put them on the side ready for use. dont worry about remote power adjustments. the venue is so small, you can simply walk over and adjust it. dont know anything about those slaves so will leave it to you to decide if theyre reliable.

stands. I use 13' stands. seems the 10' cheetah will do the job for this venue. just be aware of your surrounding and possible kids running around and knocking them over or getting hurt from them. we dont need a law suite. the 13' one I have are simply heavier but not often I use all of the 13'.

do you have a bracket to mount flash and umbrella on the stands? you can find nice inexpensive ones on ebay for about $8 each shipped.
these are a PITA to deal with
B Type Flash Hot Shoe Adapter Trigger Umbrella Holder Swivel Light Stand Bracket | eBay
hard to tighten the flash mount with the small dial.

I always have 3 of these in my bag
Hot Shoe Mount Flash Bracket Umbrella Holder for Canon Nikon Metz Sony HVL F60M | eBay
ive had various kind and these are very comfrotable to use. just make sure and tighten the tilt knob well. it wont come undone but feels like it wont tighten. not an issue

what kind of stud does your light stands have at the top?

I would also recommend a few of these to always have in your bag
Flash Stand Holder Mount Base Hot Shoe for Flashgun D | eBay
very useful for placing a flash anywhere you might need.

you will need your umbrellas for family formals. my only concern is that I noticed in the US, they sometimes do big groups of people and that will be a challenge to light , pose and setup
 

mrpbnm

Senior Member
@rocketman122 Thanks again for your help. I will study this post over and over until I take in all of the points. In the mean time, my questions/replies in blue italics.


regarding your gear, youre pretty much set with the lenses and cameras. 2 d750..sweet.

theres a few things we need to discuss
-low ceiling which is perfect for on camera bounce flash but not ideal to use off camera flashes on stands. this is far different than venues like they showed in the fstoppers video I linked previously and usually I shoot in those kind. not barns but very high ceilings and dj lights that are everywhere, like in the pics

View attachment 135897View attachment 135898

they look more like discoteques then a venue youre going to shoot. there is a great ambient feel that gives a great dance atmosphere. both were shot at the end of the wedding when everyone went. Nice venues (expensive?) and very nice photos! Did you mean that these were taken after the guests had left? BTW, in what country are you working?

...personally, Id play it by ear. if the dj has some lights then setup two flashes on opposing sides to make a square and gel them with a light yellow orange or red. ne on each flash. use your on camera flash bounced straight up with white card out. Do you mean for me to put my lights on stands across the dance floor from and aiming at the DJ? Wouldn't I have people knocking over my lights?

flashes. only problem I see is an on camera flash that youre missing. yes the 383 is a decent flash but not fast enough. you have the xcsource transmitter connected to the pc sync port of the flash to fire, correct? Id suggest you get 1-2 more of the transmitter for backup. you never know. personally, I would not feel confident going into this with the 383. it has its place but not in the fast paced wedding world. I will get an SB910 for on camera and 4 of the YN622 triggers. Then, I believe I can mount the SB910 on the trigger for pass thru firing. Have you ever done that? ...church, I have no idea what the rules will be so you will need to ask. take a monopod wiht you just in case you have low lighting and you can only shoot from the back. either the 70-200 on the DX or use the D750 and bump up the iso. I have no idea, youll need to verify. not sure how low the ambient light is there. no less than 1/200 at 2.8 otherwise bump up the iso. I will contact the church and get the rules ahead of time. I'm sure you don't always shoot at 2.8 in the church, so please explain this part again.

not sure how comfortable you are but I shoot normally at no less than iso 3200 indoors and the D3s can do 8000 pretty decently. these are dancing pictures and not exactly so important. you might have a situation where theyre going to turn off all lights and youll be shooting in the dark and only with the dj lights there. be prepared to have the flashes setup JIC and put them on the side ready for use. dont worry about remote power adjustments. the venue is so small, you can simply walk over and adjust it. dont know anything about those slaves so will leave it to you to decide if theyre reliable. I can probably shoot the entire reception at 3200 ISO but I may need to reduce noise in Lightroom.

stands. I use 13' stands. seems the 10' cheetah will do the job for this venue. just be aware of your surrounding and possible kids running around and knocking them over or getting hurt from them. we dont need a law suite. the 13' one I have are simply heavier but not often I use all of the 13'. I asked about stands out in the open getting knocked over already. It seems that they would inevitably get knocked over. Wouldn't it be safer to but them near the DJ table? Also, I only have one 10 ft. Cheetah stand. The rest are regular stands. Are you saying to move around with the cheetah stand in tow?

do you have a bracket to mount flash and umbrella on the stands? you can find nice inexpensive ones on ebay for about $8 each shipped.
these are a PITA to deal with
B Type Flash Hot Shoe Adapter Trigger Umbrella Holder Swivel Light Stand Bracket | eBay
hard to tighten the flash mount with the small dial.

I always have 3 of these in my bag
Hot Shoe Mount Flash Bracket Umbrella Holder for Canon Nikon Metz Sony HVL F60M | eBay
ive had various kind and these are very comfrotable to use. just make sure and tighten the tilt knob well. it wont come undone but feels like it wont tighten. not an issue I have 4 of the mounts you call a PITA, but I will order the ones you recommend.

what kind of stud does your light stands have at the top? The same stud as fits in the camera tripod mount (1/4 inch?)

I would also recommend a few of these to always have in your bag
Flash Stand Holder Mount Base Hot Shoe for Flashgun D | eBay
very useful for placing a flash anywhere you might need. Yes, I have a few.

you will need your umbrellas for family formals. my only concern is that I noticed in the US, they sometimes do big groups of people and that will be a challenge to light , pose and setup I will ask the Bride about this.
 

rocketman122

Senior Member
I think those venues are expensive. I dont usually shoot in lower level venues. yes the images were of the last few that stayed. it was just to show you what the lighting looks like and it was just a coincidence I used those. I cant say my location.

Yes, I have an SB900/800/700 the 800 doesnt play well with the flash on the 622 mounted on the camera. as an off camera flash in manual power its great
but yes the SB900/10 works great on the 622 mounted on the camera. no issue. run it in ttl not ittl because there is no ambient light to meter, the light will be inconsistent. if it were outdoor or a constant light then yes. you can bounce it up with the white card out. btw, be aware with the 622 slaves fps drops down to about 3. no matter what camera youre using it will be around 3 because the transfer of the signal takes time and you will notice a lag so play with it when you get it so you know what to expect.

No I dont shoot 2.8 unless I have no choice from low lught. seems youll have ample light though.shutter speed for blur is crucial. so 1/160-200 and no less. you can go down but need to know when. if they are not moving and you have a monopod then go down to 60 if you need to. if you can flash then great get some flashes to boucne up from the edges of the church interior. Wb for that when you shoot with the flashes. from what I see its a bit warm. flash is your friend it. just a TINY bit add to the picture and adds a little pop to make mute colors come up. it will kill that flat ambient light look. but just a bit I would only add about -2 to my metered ambient shot. so if im shooting f/4 at 1/200 then flash at -2 stops of that/ setup your flashes before. obviously the closer you are to the flashes the impression in the picture will be more prominent. have them angled towards the BG. looking at the church picture I see a ledge that will stop you from positioning a light stand on the outer edges. I dont think the church will be completely full (who knows though) so what I suggest is you get the stands back a little just bheind where the guests sit but not under the ledge and where you can extend the flash completely and also it wont bother your WA shot should you want to do an "ambient/atmosphere" picture. find out if you can flash though. fire them at about 1/4 power. charged NIMH batteries. after the church swap them for new ones at the reception.

seting up flashes near the DJ will just give more light to the direction the DJ lights are shooting. you have to play it by ear and see how the situation unfolds. set your flashes though no matter what. you simply pick it up and move it where you need to. adjust on the fly. weight bags come to mind. your flash stands arenet heavy enough. the ones I have are heavy enough and dont get toplled over so easy. btw, you dont need to have them up. you have such a short ceiling. keep them at the shortest height and bounce them up. no problems then for falling over.

yes, 1/4" thats great.

dancefloor.jpgSt. Judes Church.JPG
 

rocketman122

Senior Member
oh another thing about the 622. when you first connect it, it might seem like its not working. the nikon flash wont show the camera setting. make sure you turn the slave and flash on then the camera on. it will then wake up. or if they are all on simply turn the camera off and on and it will rest itself. btw, if you turn the slave off then the flash wont work. it wont send the bypass info. so if you want to shoot without the slave working, simply press the side channel button to something else.
 

mrpbnm

Senior Member
@rocketman122 Awesome info and with drawings too! What more could I ask? I can 't say thank you enough. Now I have to get the additional equipment; get information from the church, and practice. I will read and digest all of your posts and practice what I can. This post may go stale until it gets closer to wedding time. Thanks again for the pointers on how the 622 behaves.

It looks like I may book a college graduation party in May (practice for the wedding - yes!). It will be in what we consider an upscale resort. But I think it will be more like the convention center than your upscale venues. If I book it, would you give me some pointers on that one too?

Many Thanks,
mrpbnm

BTW, for some strange reason, the forum won't let me Like your replies: it keeps saying that I don't have permission to do that. I'll try it from my home computer and see what happens...
 
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rocketman122

Senior Member
@rocketman122 Awesome info and with drawings too! What more could I ask? I can 't say thank you enough. Now I have to get the additional equipment; get information from the church, and practice. I will read and digest all of your posts and practice what I can. This post may go stale until it gets closer to wedding time. Thanks again for the pointers on how the 622 behaves.

It looks like I may book a college graduation party in May (practice for the wedding - yes!). It will be in what we consider an upscale resort. But I think it will be more like the convention center than your upscale venues. If I book it, would you give me some pointers on that one too?

Many Thanks,
mrpbnm

BTW, for some strange reason, the forum won't let me Like your replies: it keeps saying that I don't have permission to do that. I'll try it from my home computer and see what happens...


practice for sure. in the winter months weddings arent abundant so if friends ask me to come shoot something for them, I do it. its great to stay "hot". get some info about the place and well talk about strategy for that as well.

resurrect the post when you need to. cheers!

likes are showing. thank you.
 

mrpbnm

Senior Member
@rocketman122 I got all of the equipment we talked about above except the second camera, which is on back order. I will be re-reading your suggestions and practicing with the equipment - so i should have it down before the wedding. That YN622 manual is a mother!

Also, I found a guy who's agreed to let me get some experience as one of his paid second shooters and maybe, eventually, a contract shooter for events. I'll be training with him soon, so I should have a couple of weddings under my belt before the one I signed comes up in June. I still plan to build my own business too. That's what this is all about. I'm not sure yet how that works (his vs. mine and my day job), but I'll keep you posted. Thanks for all of your help so far and in the future. Yes, I'm sure I'll have more questions for you...
mrpbnm
 
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mrpbnm

Senior Member
@rocketman122 I went to the church and took some test shots. These were taken with a D800 - I'd guess the D750 would be about the same. The church lady said that she doesn't know of any photography rules, but I'll ask the priest on the day of the wedding, just to be safe. I shot some with and without bounce flash - on camera (SB 910). Based on these photos, do you think I need the 2 manual slaves on light stands like you show above? All photos are straight from camera except re-sized in LR. I don't know if exif data will transfer, so here it is:

altar 1f/5.6 1/60 sec. ISO 800 no flash 24 mm
altar 2f/5.6 1/60 sec. ISO 800 no flash 24 mm
altar 3f/5.6 1/125 sec. ISO 800 bounce flash 24 mm
altar 4f/5.6 1/250 sec. ISO 800 bounce flash 24 mm
pews 1f/5.6 1/60 sec. ISO 800 no flash 24 mm
pews 2f/5.6 1/125 sec. ISO 800 bounce flash 24 mm
from backf/4 1/60 sec. ISO 1600 no flash 24 mm

altar (1).jpgaltar (2).jpgaltar (3).jpgaltar (4).jpgpews (1).jpgpews (2).jpg
from back.jpg
 
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RocketCowboy

Senior Member
I'm not rocketman, but I don't think you're going to find bounce flash to be useable with those ceiling heights down the center. That vaulted ceiling looks like it covers the pews and the alter, so other than down the outside aisles it's just not helpful.

The last picture looks best to me, but you both upped the ISO from 800 to 1600 and opened up the aperture from f/5.6 to f/4. I don't think you'll do many shots from back there though, just due to distance, focal length, and obstructed view once the pews are full.
 

mrpbnm

Senior Member
Thanks @RocketCowboy . I don't know from your comment if you read where @rocketman122 suggested I use 2 slaves on stands if the church was dark (see photo). Because this is my first church wedding, I'm asking is this church considered dark enough to warrant using the slaves, or can I get away with on camera bounce only - assuming flash is allowed during the ceremony. I was hoping to get some additional pointers for shooting this church like what settings to use as a starting point.
136705d1422349191-first-wedding-june-continued-flashes-forum-st.-judes-church.jpg

I would probably try F 5.6 1/60 ISO 800 or 1600 with on camera bounce flash w/white card out. This might require bumping exposure up and removing noise in LightRoom. But I want to do the best I can and minimize what I have to fix in post, so I'm looking for suggestion of a better way from an expert. Of course, if flash is not allowed, I think I'll have to go to 3200 ISO...
 

RocketCowboy

Senior Member
Sorry for the confusion. Yes, I would go with @rocketman122's recommendation and try to get strobes on stands if that's allowed. Rocketman122 has shot more weddings that I've even been to, so he's the pro at this, but that's how I would tackle the situation if I were in your shoes.
 

rocketman122

Senior Member
ok first thing, that church is very nice so do the best you can to do nice pictures for the church as well. maybe get an enlargement done on some kappa and a simple elegant thing aluminum frame around. just get it done in a place where they use high quality kappa boards because low quality ones will warp in time.

2nd, I myself love using high iso if I need to. I would go right up to 6400 if I need to but since I do have flashes I would shoot at 3200 and use the flashes to add extra light so I can get my shutter up higher

1/60 is fine for wide shots all over when people/couple arent moving. like an atmosphere shot. you could probably go down to 1/30 if you have good technique. but for the ceremony when the preist does his hand gestures, no less than 1/160. and that sets you up with not enough exposure in your shots from the images you posted above. f/4 is "ok" and you can even go down to 2.8 for specific wide shots @the 24 end. but youre on the edge of "good" and not in the "great" work results.

you dont have any other flashes besides the SB910? if no is the answer, then thats what you have to deal with. if you dont plan on getting any, then again, one SB910 is all you have so you deal with what you have. I dont think youll even have time to buy the flashes and get them in time. maybe from adorama or amazon can get it to you in time but you really should have external flashes and triggers in your gear arsenal if you plan on doing this more. the idea with flash is to make it look as natural as possible and mix ambient light with flash. you dont have enough ambient( ur using lowish iso) so in pictures like 5 and 6 the difference is clear how flash affects the results. and here it looks quite nice although under exposed. but heres the thing. youre shooting them at 1/60 which might not be fast enough to freeze movement and if you up the flash power the flash impression will be stronger and youll get results that look like flashed images. in those two images the non flashed image looks flat actually. so flash is good to add but you need to balance it with the ambient. once youll shoot at 1/160 there will be less ambient light and the flash will work harder to get the proper exposure by shooting even more light

another thing to consider is that one 910 flash has a hard job to do. theres a tall ceiling and its pumping out a lot of light. if you up the iso, recycle will be faster since it doesnt need to dump so much light and it will look more pleasing. ifg you would have used external flashes then each flash wouldnt have to work so hard to get you the proper exposure and recyling would be fast and you can shoot faster. im certain there might be parts of the ceremony that you will shoot one shot after the other and the SB910 wont be fast enough to recycle and you may miss a shot. so be aware. and pace your shots. under stress you may fire non stop wanting to get the shot and u wont notice the flash isnt ready.

if you do plan on getting flashes/slaves then we can talk strategically where to place the flashes (u dont need light stands here) but if not then nothing else I can add besides that youre going to have to make a decision on high high iso youre willing to go. im not afraid of high iso. in film times photographers shot with iso 3200BW and 800/1600 and it looked grainy as shet and todays camera can do 6400 and look great if you make sure to overexpose 1/2 stop. youre WB is also off in the last one. a bit warm. btw, be aware when you use flash the WB does not stay neautral. it will nudge to the warm as well. not many pay attention to this but its true. I dont know how profficient you are and how fast you work or how you work udner stress.

shoot a lot and move around a lot. shoot high low wide tele. perspective from the guests POV from the side, if hell let you from the preists POV to the people with couple and to the couple by themselves.
thats all I can offer at this time. ask questions if youd like

dont mind the picture. cant remove it for some reason
 

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the

New member
I got an email saying I was mentioned in this thread. I had no idea what you guys were talking about, then I found it.

you can even go down to 2.8 for specific wide shots @the 24 end.


You have summoned me. What is your bidding?
 

mrpbnm

Senior Member
@rocketman122 That was a lot to digest! I've read it twice and feel like I need to read it again. First question: What is kappa? I will definitely try to get some nice photos of the church - I assume that it should be empty of people for those shots.

Per your suggestion, I got the SB 910 to sit on camera (TTL). I also have a battery pack for the SB 910, a Yongnuo YN 560 Speedlight, a Yongnuo YN 560 III Speedlight and battery Packs for both Yongnuo Speedlights - so recycle time should be pretty good for all 3 flashes.

I think that i am comfortable using ISO 1600 with the flashes. So the manual flashes should be at 1/4 power and the SB 910 in TTL? If no flash is allowed, I will have to go as high as needed to get decent exposure - probably still 1600 but maybe 3200 remembering to shoot everything 1/2 stop over exposed.


I'm thankful for all of your help and can't tell you enough how this information is
really appreciated. Just so it is all in one place, would you mind detailing the steps/recipe for the church photos - both with and without the 3 flashes? Then Family formals with flash.


I'll be shooting in RAW with WB at auto, so WB can be fixed in post. Is that what you'd do?


Edited to add: Here are some shots of the reception hall. All of these photos were shot using TTL bounce with the white card out.
Almost 1/2 of the room looks Westward out onto a patio, but I expect the shades to be down at least until sunset. The ceiling is composed of three recessed areas (light traps) where they can play colored LED lighting effects. I don't know how the lighting will be set but they'll probably be darker than they were today. The last shot proves that I'll probably be shooting at ISO 1600 or 3200 if i want to capture the room in the background. So, @rocketman122 what do you say? Thanks in advance!
venue (1).jpgvenue (2).jpgvenue (3).jpgvenue (4).jpg



Read more: http://nikonites.com/wedding/28411-first-wedding-june-continued-flashes-forum.html#ixzz3bRRRtQDk
 
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rocketman122

Senior Member
hey Phil

ok I can understand him. there are many times you dont even need to use stands. take a look at this image. I shot this conference for architects on monday morning. my lady set up this job for me. look where I placed one flash. the other flash (not seen in the pic obviously) is on the other side on the counter as well.
DSC_6412 copy.jpgDSC_6190 copy.jpg

see if you can find a place to place them somewhere. u have the base/stand that came with each flash. you should also consider getting some grips like in the video, including a flash umbrella bracket.


you dont need the battery pack actually. u can use it if youre a quick multiple frames shooter. I never had the need to shoot more than 2-3 pics in a row. and it handled it more than fine, even at 1/16 power.
place them somewhere where they dont bother. if you place them in one of the seating isle (where there arent many people, then people wont walk into them and itll be safe. if you place it in the aisle then sure, people are blind and dont notice anything around them. but I havent seen any ceremony where the church seating is full.

try at f/16. you dont need them to be main/key lights. just a little blanket of light to help keep the light spread all over. look at pic number one above. flash fall off is very obvious. and obvious overexposure on the lady. if you have light bouncing up (multiple flashes) to spread all over, you will get more uniform light. I dont want to complicate things but u may even want directional light at times for creative pics. stay safe and go soft though. not sure how strong you are with having and image in mind and knowing how to configure thiungs in the camera on the fly during stress. some people just piss their pants.

so basically stay at 1/16 power. if its too strong then close your aperture but keep the iso a bit up so the camera can also get the ambient. keep your shutter up also. 1/125-200 depending on the FL. f/3.5 for snipping people (70-200) and 4.5+ when shooting wide. if youre shooting a wa static shot, lower the output of your SB910 (sitting on camera) flash by 1-2 stops and lower shutter (1/60) to let ambient light in. you wrote "pro" so these are things im guessing you deal with regularly. knowing EC and FEC is 101 school.

watch your wb because the wood will bounce off some of that color. make the necessary adjustments later in PP. dont shoot raw so not too familiar. if it goes crazy on you then just set kelvin at 4400 or so.
 

rocketman122

Senior Member
hey Phil

ok I can understand him. there are many times you dont even need to use stands. take a look at this image. I shot this conference for architects on monday morning. my lady set up this job for me. look where I placed one flash. the other flash (not seen in the pic obviously) is on the other side on the counter as well.
View attachment 162590View attachment 162602

see if you can find a place to place them somewhere. u have the base/stand that came with each flash. you should also consider getting some grips like in the video, including a flash umbrella bracket.


you dont need the battery pack actually. u can use it if youre a quick multiple frames shooter. I never had the need to shoot more than 2-3 pics in a row. and it handled it more than fine, even at 1/16 power.
place them somewhere where they dont bother. if you place them in one of the seating isle (where there arent many people, then people wont walk into them and itll be safe. if you place it in the aisle then sure, people are blind and dont notice anything around them. but I havent seen any ceremony where the church seating is full.

try at f/16. you dont need them to be main/key lights. just a little blanket of light to help keep the light spread all over. look at pic number one above. flash fall off is very obvious. and obvious overexposure on the lady. if you have light bouncing up (multiple flashes) to spread all over, you will get more uniform light. I dont want to complicate things but u may even want directional light at times for creative pics. stay safe and go soft though. not sure how strong you are with having and image in mind and knowing how to configure thiungs in the camera on the fly during stress. some people just piss their pants.

so basically stay at 1/16 power. if its too strong then close your aperture but keep the iso a bit up so the camera can also get the ambient. keep your shutter up also. 1/125-200 depending on the FL. f/3.5 for snipping people (70-200) and 4.5+ when shooting wide. if youre shooting a wa static shot, lower the output of your SB910 (sitting on camera) flash by 1-2 stops and lower shutter (1/60) to let ambient light in. you wrote "pro" so these are things im guessing you deal with regularly. knowing EC and FEC is 101 school.

watch your wb because the wood will bounce off some of that color. make the necessary adjustments later in PP. dont shoot raw so not too familiar. if it goes crazy on you then just set kelvin at 4400 or so.

https://youtu.be/ehfnXZWoezg
 
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