Raise your hand, Z owners!

Clovishound

Senior Member
You make me realize I have spent lot $$$ for Z gears with that I can instead buy a good used car!!!

Back in my film days, I bought beater cars and kept them on the road as long as possible so I had enough money to spend on camera equipment. I spent more on my Z5 than any car for (ie not a family car) except the last one. Most I drove for at least 6 years, one I bought for $200 and drove 18 years. I suppose it's just a matter of priorities. It helps that I have been able to do my own car maintenance.
 

TwistedThrottle

Senior Member
I use i button to change focus area modes (z6ii): pinpoint, single point, wide small, wide large, wide large (people), wide large (animal), auto area (you indicate as 3D), auto area (people), auto area (animal). The last three auto area modes can be set to use "auto tracking". The wide large (p & a) are with eye-detecting. This is what I think I know. Please correct if wrong.
Do you have the option to switch between AF-S and AF-C? I believe this is why I programed my FN2 instead of switching focus points via the default i button. There are a few focus area modes you've listed that I dont have and there are some I didnt list because in I was under the impression from your posts you were inquiring about AF-C. My pinpoint mode is only found in AF-S, I have to switch to AF-C in order to get to the group focus points. I'm wondering if you are stuck in AF-S and thats why you dont see group mode.
 
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desmobob

Senior Member
I also use the Function 2 button to enable AF type and group selection with the two command dials. I would prefer the ability to use the joystick and multi-selector center buttons and AF button for instant, one-touch AF settings changes, like on the D500, but using the Function 2 button on the Z is the next best thing, I'd guess.
 

Danno

Senior Member
I have a Z6. It was pretty near the initial release because I did have to install the first firmware update that Nikon sent out for the Z cameras. I cannot remember. I also survived all the talking heads that claimed they were junk. I am just waiting now for the Z6III or the Z8. No, I will not be selling the Z6. I am thinking a bit about glass, but I am pretty happy with what I have right now. I just need to get ou and use it... I actually did use to take photos.

Wild Clouds-1709.jpg
 

blackstar

Senior Member
Do you have the option to switch between AF-S and AF-C? I believe this is why I programed my FN2 instead of switching focus points via the default i button. There are a few focus area modes you've listed that I dont have and there are some I didnt list because in I was under the impression from your posts you were inquiring about AF-C. My pinpoint mode is only found in AF-S, I have to switch to AF-C in order to get to the group focus points. I'm wondering if you are stuck in AF-S and thats why you dont see group mode.

I also use "i" to switch focus modes (AF-S, AF-C, M). There is no difference in focus area modes for AF-S or AF-C. For M, there's only one choice: center point. You (z6) and desmobob (z7ii) both mentioned "group" focus selection that I am not aware of in z6ii so far. Could I miss something?
 

TwistedThrottle

Senior Member
I also use "i" to switch focus modes (AF-S, AF-C, M). There is no difference in focus area modes for AF-S or AF-C. For M, there's only one choice: center point. You (z6) and desmobob (z7ii) both mentioned "group" focus selection that I am not aware of in z6ii so far. Could I miss something?

Yes. I downloaded the manual here and if you head to page 78 of the PDF, they cover group AF, (now called Dynamic area AF) its the square with 4 dots; one at the top, one at the bottom and one on each side. There's a special note saying, "this option is only available when photo mode is selected and continuous AF is chosen for focus mode." This is from the Z6ii manual, so the only explanation is you don't have continuous AF chosen.
 

blackstar

Senior Member
Yes. I downloaded the manual here and if you head to page 78 of the PDF, they cover group AF, (now called Dynamic area AF) its the square with 4 dots; one at the top, one at the bottom and one on each side. There's a special note saying, "this option is only available when photo mode is selected and continuous AF is chosen for focus mode." This is from the Z6ii manual, so the only explanation is you don't have continuous AF chosen.

Oop, my fault to miss and mistaken it! Dynamic area is only for AF-C and Pinpoint is only for AF-S. So now, what is you guy's AF settings for BIF? specifically: what AF area mode and metering you choose?
 

TwistedThrottle

Senior Member
Oop, my fault to miss and mistaken it! Dynamic area is only for AF-C and Pinpoint is only for AF-S. So now, what is you guy's AF settings for BIF? specifically: what AF area mode and metering you choose?
Glad we got it sorted out for ya!
I use that dynamic mode (group af in DSLR's) with matrix metering 99.9% of my wildlife shots. I've also adjusted the "focus tracking with lock on" (A3) to "fast" which helps to reacquire my focus quickly if its been lost. Its just a setting that tells the camera how long you want it to wait after loosing focus to try to reacquire focus. You may want slow or somewhere in between if the focus keeps snapping to the tree the bird keeps flying behind for example.
 

blackstar

Senior Member
Glad we got it sorted out for ya!
I use that dynamic mode (group af in DSLR's) with matrix metering 99.9% of my wildlife shots. I've also adjusted the "focus tracking with lock on" (A3) to "fast" which helps to reacquire my focus quickly if its been lost. Its just a setting that tells the camera how long you want it to wait after loosing focus to try to reacquire focus. You may want slow or somewhere in between if the focus keeps snapping to the tree the bird keeps flying behind for example.

I read some people would set A3 to high (number 5) for BIF to prevent from catching bird's wing covering its head (eye). I thought the number 5 (delayed) is set to help maintain focus on your original object (according to the Manual). Does it make sense? Not sure, and no easy way to find out, I guess.
 

TwistedThrottle

Senior Member
I read some people would set A3 to high (number 5) for BIF to prevent from catching bird's wing covering its head (eye). I thought the number 5 (delayed) is set to help maintain focus on your original object (according to the Manual). Does it make sense? Not sure, and no easy way to find out, I guess.
The easy way to find out is to go and see what works best for you!
 

Roy1961

Senior Member
Contributor
Same request: share your comparison on wildlife AF_C tracking performance between D500 and z6ii. Thanks

wrong person to ask. I dont see a difference between the two (my opinion) i use single point on both and i like the larger single point on the Z6ii.
 

Camera Fun

Senior Member
I have 24-120 lens and like it because it's S version. The 24-70 kit lens is well known for its all around performance. But if you like far reach, you probably want to shoot for 24-200 (if 400mm is out of budget. it is for me). I take 24-120 solely for the S version. Oh, it's heavy too! (for my old hands only :()

Does the 24-120 really feel that much heavier? There is a part of me right now that thinks having the extra reach of the 24-120 might be a better decision than adding a 70-200 someday. Considering selling/trading some of my older gear at the camera store I support to get the 24-120.
 

blackstar

Senior Member
Does the 24-120 really feel that much heavier? There is a part of me right now that thinks having the extra reach of the 24-120 might be a better decision than adding a 70-200 someday. Considering selling/trading some of my older gear at the camera store I support to get the 24-120.

I can't opine your decision on 24-120 or 70-200. But I can give you my answer (or suggestion) to the heaviness of 24-120: from my experience, it is heavier than my old 70-300 DX. I have used 70-300DX with z6ii (with FTZii) and felt quite comfortable just like with D3500. However, 24-120 + z6ii weighs bit heavier than 70-300DX+FTZ+z6ii. It's my only complaint from my old-man hands. For young people, it's nothing I reckon. GL
 

blackstar

Senior Member
wrong person to ask. I dont see a difference between the two (my opinion) i use single point on both and i like the larger single point on the Z6ii.

Hey, Roy. Now I have used my z6ii more. Reading back to your post makes me raise more questions. I have used z6ii+FTZ+sigma 150-600 to shoot moon images by handheld in AF-S. I first set focus area mode "Wide area Large" and it gives a large rectangle focus area to cover the whole moon, from which I usually get good images (if my hands can keep the moon in the rectangle). Then I decided to try focus area mode "single point". It turned out other than the center small square (with a dot inside), there appeared many more small squares spreading out from the center one. I figured that those fan out squares are to cover the whole moon for focusing. I have no D500 and don't know how it shows the "single point" in VF or LV. But your mention "the larger single point on the z6ii" makes me puzzled: do you see one single square on z6ii and which is larger than the square on D500? How big is the "single point"?

BTW, for moon shots, I think "single point" on z6ii may not be the best one to set. From the images I took by "single point", some moons were warped in shape: round full moon becomes oval shape in horizontal, vertical, or any angled way. I think sometimes the camera fails to detect partial edge of the moon and dismisses many focusing squares to cover the whole moon. Since the "wide-area large" rectangle is bigger than the moon, it won't fail to cover the whole moon. My reckoning.
 

Sandpatch

Senior Member
@blackstar ...
On paper, the Z6 wins, it has a higher FPS. In reality, its easier to track a bird (or other small subject) without the blackout that occurs on the Z6 beyond 5 FPS ...

I'm an amateur photographer and have been lightly looking at the Z6 and wasn't aware of this. I shoot mostly passing trains, so a higher FPS is of interest to me. Am I to understand that if I set the Z6 for its full 12 FPS, the viewfinder will go dark as I shoot?

I've read other reviews of this function and am more confused than ever, with it "going dark between frames" or "being jerky".
 

BF Hammer

Senior Member
I'm an amateur photographer and have been lightly looking at the Z6 and wasn't aware of this. I shoot mostly passing trains, so a higher FPS is of interest to me. Am I to understand that if I set the Z6 for its full 12 FPS, the viewfinder will go dark as I shoot?

I've read other reviews of this function and am more confused than ever, with it "going dark between frames" or "being jerky".
Put it simply, you can toggle between 2 modes of viewfinder behavior. Either the viewfinder display turns black as images are being recorded or the view freezes with the image being recorded. Turning black replicates how the viewfinder of a DSLR is blocked while photos are exposed. The freeze-frame option I find makes it distracting to my brain for tracking moving subjects. It is easier to work with if the shutter speed is faster. But the blackout option loses all clues for tracking objects. My brain seems to be wired to handle that better though. Freeze-frame is the default setting in the menu.

This is a necessary evil of mirrorless bodies because the camera is busy trying to capture a photograph so providing smooth video display with the camera sensor is not possible. Just think about it a second if you are using with mechanical shutter active. Shutter is wide open to display video in the viewfinder until you push shutter-release. Then the shutter must close, thus losing the video display. Then the shutter opens and closes at the set shutter speed to take the photo. As you hold the shutter release down to take a burst, the shutter is only open to update the video displayed in the viewfinder during the taking of photos. So you get slow, jerky display like watching an online video stream in 1998.
 

Sandpatch

Senior Member
Put it simply, you can toggle between 2 modes of viewfinder behavior. Either the viewfinder display turns black as images are being recorded or the view freezes with the image being recorded. Turning black replicates how the viewfinder of a DSLR is blocked while photos are exposed. The freeze-frame option I find makes it distracting to my brain for tracking moving subjects. It is easier to work with if the shutter speed is faster. But the blackout option loses all clues for tracking objects. My brain seems to be wired to handle that better though. Freeze-frame is the default setting in the menu. ...

Using the freeze frame option, does the slow and jerky image appearance in the viewfinder fall further and further behind as the shutter release button is held down? In other words, do the images appear in the viewfinder at the same rate they're being taken or does a display backlog build up? Thanks much for your help with this.
 

BF Hammer

Senior Member
I believe this is going to depend on the particular Z body model. I use a Z5, which has the slowest burst modes of the full frame mirrorless. I don't work that way often, really just activate it for birding and sports. Plus I have it set to blank the display instead of freeze-frame display.
 
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