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Whiskeyman
I have always been a little skeptical of computerized focus because it's not the real world. My logic is that the glass focusing at a real world distance will be different than what it would be close up focusing on a chart. I'm not saying it doesn't work, and I know Don loves his program, but for me I want real world focusing. So here is how I did it and the story that brought me to my method.
Yesterday...
I'm sitting in the park shooting various things trying out the lens as it is the first time I have got to shoot my new lens. The crows are making themselves available so I'm shooting them. One crow lands in the parking lot in front of me to pick at some bread and I turn to shoot it. It just so happens that after I shoot this bird and zoom in looking at the picture I realize the parking space lines, from my elevated location, is exactly like the manual tuning system of using a printed ruler pattern. Looking closer I can see exactly where the camera is focusing relative to the bird.
From this EUREKA moment I went home, the park is behind my house, grabbed my tripod and computer to sit down and formally dial it in. Shown in the picture below, I was 115 feet from a black mark that split one of the two parking spaces in half (could be replicated with chalk or a tape line). On my tripod I used that black line in the parking space to split right down the middle of the focus box in my camera viewfinder. From there I used a 2 second time delayed to fire each shot and then pixel peeped on my computer to dial in my focus.
Why 115 feet? From the distance I was at, to where the crow was, it was about the natural distance/limit at which I would shoot something smaller in size.
I found this worked perfectly to dial in my lens replicating a real world shooting distance that I would us it at.
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