Is VR necessary when shooting motocross and car racing?
- Thread starter sparti
- Start date
At 1/1000th you're shooting at the same speed VR is working so even if it detects movement, the shot is taken before it can do anything. It stops being effective before 1/1000th but I wouldn't know at exactly which shutter speed. If I had to gamble I'd say 1/500s at best.
At lower speeds it can be handy but the only advantage I find worth it, is it stabilizing the viewfinder. I like that most. Personally I don't buy a lens for the VR. If it is included fine but it is no priority.
At lower speeds it can be handy but the only advantage I find worth it, is it stabilizing the viewfinder. I like that most. Personally I don't buy a lens for the VR. If it is included fine but it is no priority.
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sonicbuffalo_RIP
Senior Member
not to change the subject, but putting aside motorsports, which I love too; just remember too, that if you do have VR, turn it off when shooting on a tripod.
Whiskeyman
Senior Member
Nikon's explanation can be found here: Nikon | Technology | VR (Vibration-Reduction)
For your lens, VR should help you at 1/250 of a second at 300mm, but shouldn't be needed at 1/1000 of a second. In fact, there is advice from several sources to turn VR off for any shutter speed of faster than 1/500 sec.
Of course, Nikon's sheet also caveats that VR effectiveness is dependent upon the photographer's skills, and is based upon the premise/example that the photographer can "get it right" 70% of the time before seeing a 70% chance of four-stop hand-held improvement. I take that to mean that if the photographer has a 10% chance of getting right without VR, then they have the same 10% chance of getting right with the VR engaged at four stops slower exposure speed.
Either way, your technique is extremely important to the final outcome, and VR cannot be depended upon to create great images. If you have questions about how they do it, read up on the subject, and the next time you visit an event, go early and try to find a pro and ask for a few pointers. Most will be very happy to provide a few tips. Just don't get in the way of them doing their job, i.e., don't ask them these questions during the event they are shooting. Just try to observe them during the event to pick up on their techniques.
WM
For your lens, VR should help you at 1/250 of a second at 300mm, but shouldn't be needed at 1/1000 of a second. In fact, there is advice from several sources to turn VR off for any shutter speed of faster than 1/500 sec.
Of course, Nikon's sheet also caveats that VR effectiveness is dependent upon the photographer's skills, and is based upon the premise/example that the photographer can "get it right" 70% of the time before seeing a 70% chance of four-stop hand-held improvement. I take that to mean that if the photographer has a 10% chance of getting right without VR, then they have the same 10% chance of getting right with the VR engaged at four stops slower exposure speed.
Either way, your technique is extremely important to the final outcome, and VR cannot be depended upon to create great images. If you have questions about how they do it, read up on the subject, and the next time you visit an event, go early and try to find a pro and ask for a few pointers. Most will be very happy to provide a few tips. Just don't get in the way of them doing their job, i.e., don't ask them these questions during the event they are shooting. Just try to observe them during the event to pick up on their techniques.
WM
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I used to shoot motorcycle races a few years ago using a D200 and a 55-300 lens. The odd time I would use a monopod to pan/shoot, but mostly hand held, and at no time did I use VR. It's just not necessary at faster shutter speeds ( I was shooting usually between 1/500 to 1/1000).
BackdoorArts
Senior Member
VR's designed to stabilize the image, so if you were shooting a non-moving object at 1/250s then it would help you at 300mm. But panning it could actually work against you (though some lenses have an "Active" version of VR that will help with up/down motion while effectively ignoring the lateral movement). That said, for what you're doing I wouldn't worry about VR at all if that's all you're going to use the lens for. When I started I used VR all the time, but I was surprised after learning that it could actually have the opposite effect on sharpness when shutter speeds get faster and, sure enough, after much experimenting I've learned to keep the VR off and only turn it on when I need it instead of the other way around.
I have the 70-300 vr 2,
great lens.. I always read the reviews of a lens before purchase. This site will show the deference in lenses
Camera Lens Database - DxOMark
great lens.. I always read the reviews of a lens before purchase. This site will show the deference in lenses
Camera Lens Database - DxOMark
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Don Kuykendall_RIP
RIP :(
I shoot the old school way that I learned 35 years ago. Shoot with the shutter speed equal to the focal length of the lens. I fact I now shoot closer to the effective focal length of the lens since I shoot DX. I turned off the VR a while back and I think this method gets me sharper photos. I either crank up the ISO or shoot on a tripod.
i do have the Nikon 70-300 VR lens and shoot bird in flight with it all the time. I shoot a fast shutter speed when I am doing this.
i do have the Nikon 70-300 VR lens and shoot bird in flight with it all the time. I shoot a fast shutter speed when I am doing this.
BackdoorArts
Senior Member
Just for the record, the modern school of thought is that once you hit 24MP's then you may need to be 2X focal length, and at 36MP's and more it may be 3X, just to ensure sharpness. I tend to agree with this thinking and have my Auto ISO settings set in a way that will give me 1 stop more than I need on my shutter speed when shooting in Aperture Priority. Better safe than sorry.
I shut it down much earlier. The sensors detect at 1/1000th of a second, then they send a signal to the VR unit to respond to shake and that compensates. So if the signal from the sensor to the unit and its response work at the same rate as the sensor detection, you're already at 1/500s before it has adjusted.
Personally I doubt the second part is even that fast.
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Funny you picked this picture as an example because it was shot at 1/180 sec.
I think i will proceed with buying the non-VR version ($120 on ebay) at this time just to learn and save money towards a better and longer focal length lens. Also our local photo store rents the Nikon 70-200 AF-S or the older 80-400 for $30 per day maybe I will rent those and go to a local karting circuit and play around. Appreciate all your input.
Rob Bye
Senior Member
Motorsports is best shot at slower shutter speeds (relatively speaking) to allow for wheel blur. If you freeze the image at a high shutter speed, it takes away the impression of fast movement. So, VR may actually serve you well.
LOL...yeah, I noticed that after I posted the pic, grandpaw...but it was just for illustrative purposes.
Thanks for pointing that one out though.