Lens and converter ????
- Thread starter JH Foto
- Start date
Nikon Photographer
Senior Member
I'm not sure going down the TC route would be much use for you when using this lens, which has a max' aperture of f4 on the 70mm side and f5.6 when using the 300mm, the TC will add one stop on that, so your max' aperture will be f5.6 - f8, your going to need very good light to get a good exposure without putting the iso up to a high level, the AF function will be very slow to repsond, so manual focus would be the better option, personally I'd look out for a better option .....
I wish I could find a better option that I could afford
Other than a 500 prime or more expensive zoom, the 80-400 is a bit cheaper than the current 150-500's and 150-600's. It is 'only' 400mm, but them's the choices I think. Either that or the Sigma 120-400 is more reasonable in price.
I am not familiar with this lens, what is the maximum aperture at the longest focal length? If the +1 stop correction takes you past f/5.6 your camera might have trouble auto-focusing. Not that manual focusing is a bad thing, far from it. As it stands, with the DX crop, that 300mm focal length is the equivalent to a 450mm lens of FX. Although for certain shots you may need more, 450mm is not a bad focal length to start. One thing I have found with nature photography is it is better to get as close to your subject as possible without spooking them. It is better to get close to them than to have to rely solely on optics to get the shot. Of course there are times when that is impractical. I put on my Army BDU's, boonie hat, Nomex gloves and cammie up my face when stalking subjects in the woods. All my years of hunting and Army Sniper School training have made me skilled at stalking. I approach it as if I was going hunting, only instead of shooting it with a rifle I am shooting it with a camera.
For the image below I got up around 3am and drove to this area where I have hunted buck before and set up a makeshift blind using camo netting, set up the tripod, camp stool, D700 and 600mm f/4 AIS and waited for the sun to come up. For deer (and other animals) you have to make sure you are downwind of them because their sense of smell can be extremely acute. Deer do not see all that well but they have extraordinary senses of hearing and smell. Sure enough, this gorgeous 9 point (irregular) came out around 8am. I was maybe 50 yards from it when I took the photo. He was not aware of my presence because I had concealed my position well. I managed to get off two shots (the D700 is not the quietest camera on the market) before he heard me and wandered back to the wood line.
[/URL]
For the image below I got up around 3am and drove to this area where I have hunted buck before and set up a makeshift blind using camo netting, set up the tripod, camp stool, D700 and 600mm f/4 AIS and waited for the sun to come up. For deer (and other animals) you have to make sure you are downwind of them because their sense of smell can be extremely acute. Deer do not see all that well but they have extraordinary senses of hearing and smell. Sure enough, this gorgeous 9 point (irregular) came out around 8am. I was maybe 50 yards from it when I took the photo. He was not aware of my presence because I had concealed my position well. I managed to get off two shots (the D700 is not the quietest camera on the market) before he heard me and wandered back to the wood line.
[/URL]
Because when you focus at f16, the focus acquisition happens with the lens fully open. It only closes to f16 after you depress the shutter before the shutter opens. But when a lens has a widest opening of f8, the camera's focusing sensors don't do a proper job because there isn't enough light coming in for it to detect contrast.
iamntxhunter
Senior Member
What kind of wildlife are yu after?
The Nikon 70-300 does a decent job on larger animals and the distance is really the problem with smaller animals or birds. You are going to find out that developing a system of being able to close that distance the cheapest route in most situations. I have the Nikon 70-300 and I also have the Nikon 300 f/4 AF-S which is superior in quality and image quality but also heavier. With the 70-300 having VR there are situations where it will give you a better image when having to use slower shutter speeds in low light being hand held. In low light with the 300 f/4 a tripod is mandatory or a solid rest with excellently technique. This is just my opinion and I wish you success no matter which way you go.
This was shot with the 70-300 at about 130 yards or so with some cropping.
The Nikon 70-300 does a decent job on larger animals and the distance is really the problem with smaller animals or birds. You are going to find out that developing a system of being able to close that distance the cheapest route in most situations. I have the Nikon 70-300 and I also have the Nikon 300 f/4 AF-S which is superior in quality and image quality but also heavier. With the 70-300 having VR there are situations where it will give you a better image when having to use slower shutter speeds in low light being hand held. In low light with the 300 f/4 a tripod is mandatory or a solid rest with excellently technique. This is just my opinion and I wish you success no matter which way you go.
This was shot with the 70-300 at about 130 yards or so with some cropping.
In general consumer grade zooms do not have good IQ with TC, and then, at times AF slows down or fails completely. With 24MP DX sensor it will be better from IQ point of view to crop rather than magnify with a TC. You may find that the IQ degrades to an extent that crop would be preferable. There are quite a few sites which give detailed testing of lenses, many with a TC. Check them on the net to find if a TC on your lense is worth it.
I have the sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 and just bought a 2x sigma converter. IQ is pretty good, but at 5.6 or higher I find it is hard to get shutter speed up without jacking the iso up so high that you lose IQ. So I guess a bright sunny day is required. I don't like to shoot wide open so I aim for f/8..
