Rugby Team Photo
- Thread starter Welshy74
- Start date
Thank you
Don Kuykendall_RIP
RIP :(
The D7200 and the AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G
The thing you need to watch is Depth of Field. So if the light is great it would be best to have as high a aperture as you can while still keeping the ISO as low as possible.
At a subject distance of 20 feet and a aperture of 5.6 then the near limit is 13 feet and the far distance is 45 feet so that should be good for a group depending on how they are arranged. AS you probably already know the closer you are the less DOF you will have so you would need a smaller aperture like F8. I have a nice little app on my iPhone that helps me determine DOF since most lenses don't have the markings on them now that tell me that info https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/f-stop-calculator/id344976830?mt=8
The thing you need to watch is Depth of Field. So if the light is great it would be best to have as high a aperture as you can while still keeping the ISO as low as possible.
At a subject distance of 20 feet and a aperture of 5.6 then the near limit is 13 feet and the far distance is 45 feet so that should be good for a group depending on how they are arranged. AS you probably already know the closer you are the less DOF you will have so you would need a smaller aperture like F8. I have a nice little app on my iPhone that helps me determine DOF since most lenses don't have the markings on them now that tell me that info https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/f-stop-calculator/id344976830?mt=8
Thanks Don, i should really have explained why i suggested f5.6. I'm trying to do a few things at once here, and, well you know what women say about men multi-tasking
Don Kuykendall_RIP
RIP :(
Thanks Don, i should really have explained why i suggested f5.6. I'm trying to do a few things at once here, and, well you know what women say about men multi-tasking
I miss the days when lenses had DOF scales on them.
Thanks Don. Dont think the light is gonna be great as its due to be cloudy/rain tomorrow. So if I stick around 5.6 at 20 feet or so I should be good i.e not blurring anyone out on the edges
Don Kuykendall_RIP
RIP :(
you should. but if you have lots of light then f8 as long as you can keep it at least 1/60 sec or faster with the 35mm lens and stay at ISO 100. This all depends on the light. 1/60 so you don't get movement. f5.6 or f8 to get the DOF and ISO 100 to get the least noise as possible. ISO can be raised to get the other values is necessary but try to keep as low as possible. With the D7200 you can go to ISO 400 without seeing much difference and even ISO 800 you can get acceptable noise. (But lower is always better)
I would put your camera on a tripod. It is much easier to scan the crowd when you're not looking through the viewfinder to make sure the whole is ready or to catch something that is just off.
You could use either focus method, single point or manual. I lean towards single point focus so long as your aperture is, as mentioned above, wide enough to have everyone in focus.
You could use either focus method, single point or manual. I lean towards single point focus so long as your aperture is, as mentioned above, wide enough to have everyone in focus.
kevy73
Senior Member
If it were me and I had your choice of lens, I would go with the 70-200 f2.8 every time. But that is just me, it is what I am used to. But in reality, you want a lens that is wide enough or you have enough room to move further back so you can get them all in - simple as that. You will be shooting f5.6 or higher to ensure they are all in focus, so really, any of your lens will suffice. Go with what you are more comfortable with and what you think is your sharpest lens.
You will have to think about posing - ie, will they be on stands so you can have a front row, middle row back row etc or will you be shooting them on the field - if so, you will need to get height. Take a ladder or something similar.
Being an ex rugby player also - try and keep the players in their positions and roles...
ie front rowers together, flankers on their outsides, locks either side again etc... that way as well you should have relatively similar sized bodies all together plus some symmetry which normally I would hate, but for this it could work.
Hope that helps.
You will have to think about posing - ie, will they be on stands so you can have a front row, middle row back row etc or will you be shooting them on the field - if so, you will need to get height. Take a ladder or something similar.
Being an ex rugby player also - try and keep the players in their positions and roles...
ie front rowers together, flankers on their outsides, locks either side again etc... that way as well you should have relatively similar sized bodies all together plus some symmetry which normally I would hate, but for this it could work.
Hope that helps.