So it begins!

This thread will hopefully document my trip through learning my new D7000. There appears to be one, maybe two options on this camera.

I'll be learning for years to come with this camera!

So enough jibber jabber.

After reading through Darrel Young's Mastering the D7000 book, off I went for a trip around the house!

First I found this angry looking Greater Antillian Bullfinch sitting in my tree.


Then I wandered out to the chicken coop to find a chicken! Shocking I know...


This is when I realized I really had no control over where the camera was focusing. I thought you were able to control it with the control pad. I'm doing something wrong here. So back to the books!

Turns out I was trying to the move the focus point while I had the shutter button held halfway down. (Which I thought was a rather hard trick to do in the first place!) I find out you move the focus point BEFORE touching the shutter button! (Yes, it's much easier that way!)

So off to practice my new found skill!

I probably took twenty pictures trying to focus on the eye here. I finally set the camera down and took a close look. OH!!! The eye isn't out of focus, it's just drawn that way!
When I blow this up to 100% everything looks out of focus though. I think it might just be regular noise as this is at ISO 640. I'll try again when the sun comes up with a lower ISO.

Welcome to the world of the D7000!! What I'm seeing looks familiar from my early experiences with the camera, so while I may not have the exact answer I can offer a couple things. I'm going to focus (pun intended, Doc) on the Bugs Bunny photo.

From the Exif data I'm assuming you've got a Sigma 17-70mm on there, so question one is do you have the Optical Stabilization turned on? If not, given that you're shooting with a shutter speed that is "slower" than your focal length (1/60 v. 70mm - the rule I've always used is that any speed lower than 1/focal length is prone to movement) you could be getting minor movement, so turn it on. Even with it on, I've noticed that the D7000 has a much harder mirror slap than my D90. Try shooting in Q mode and see if this makes a difference. I use this all the time when I am not using a multiple exposure mode. It just makes sense to take out any factors that can lead to a missed shot. OS will only help so much. The rest is technique, and I'm not the only D7000 user here who has mentioned that it takes some work getting used to the slap.

The other thing with the D7000 (a bone of contention among some) is that it has been known to have some "focus issues". Be sure that you're up to the latest firmware release on it (see sticky at the top of the D7000 forum). Also, fine tuning the focus of certain/all lenses may be necessary. I found that all of my lenses had a back focus issue (when locking a focus point the actual area of focus is slightly behind where you want it to be). I took an hour one morning and did all my lenses and immediately noticed an improvement. Here is a thread that talks about all of these things, and while you will notice the contention among some as to whether or not it is a problem, if you decide that it is you will find links to the tools you'll need to do the adjustments yourself. It's not that difficult, and it's nothing that cannot be undone - just reset the value for a lens to 0. I'm fairly sure the Young book does a good job of walking you through the process as well. If you take a good look at the bride's ears you can see that they seem to be slightly more in focus than the faces (i.e. back focus).

You're doing a good job just getting to know your new tool. Keep it up and keep us posted.

These high pixel density sensors seem to benifit from faster shutter speeds. Unless you are using a tripod, I'd try to stay faster than 1/80th. You should see sharper images. ISO of 640 should not be noisy. Over time, technique and VR will help with slower speeds.

Thanks for all the info! I'll try and digest it more when I get back. I was just informed by the boss that we're going to see The Hobbit in 3d in IMAX. I'm pretty sure they frown upon cameras in there.

Enjoy!! With IMAX you'll need a fisheye to grab it all anyway. LOL The boss and I have our tickets for a 3:30 show with dinner to follow. We're avoiding 3D as she gets real sensitive to that. I'll wait for the Blu Rays to come out and watch it at home that way.

I have a 12 volt brain. At my age, I can only produce about 6.7 volts most days. So if I am speaking out of line here, sorry.

I just looked at some D7000 Tips, written by a *very* knowledgeable photographer. I have a 5100, and some of the tips will work for me. Probably one of the best "Tips" sections I have seen, and I have looked at a whole bunch. The author evidently has grandchildren, so is obviously a mature photographer...

While this information will work great for beginners, it seems to me that even experienced shooters may find a nugget or two.

Nikon D7000 tips

If you are starting with a D7000, it seems to me you owe yourself some good stuff. Go check it out.

And, if every single person in this forum already knows about this, I apologize for duplicating information. Good stuff always bears repeating.

Carroll

Finally made it home! Not good for trying to shoot more bugs as it's dark out again. There's always tomorrow. I was informed we also had a birthday dinner to go to. So, an hour and a half drive to the IMAX, a really long movie, then an hour drive to dinner, then a half hour drive home.

I must say the movie was pretty good! Me and 3d IMAX usually don't get along very good. It may be the higher frame rate The Hobbit was filmed in, but I had no problem with this one!

I took 129 photos at the birthday dinner though. Not really knowing what I needed for settings, I just did a whole bunch of shots with various settings. I just figured I'd see which photos came out the best, then I'd study the exif to see what I did. They're slowly moving into lightroom right now, so we shall see!

Thanks for all the tips! I shall digest them ever so slowly!

Out of 129 pictures, this is probably the best one. Sad really. I just took a slew of pictures at various settings some with flash, some without. (Totally lost on using that flash, but I'll learn that later) It was sorta dark in the room, so I did the best I could.

Here's the newest member of our growing family, Ella being held by Sarah. If you happen to live the in the Grand Rapids, MI area. Yes, that's Sarah the morning news anchor on Fox. No need to rack your brain trying to figure out where you've seen her before. We need to concentrate on the technical aspect of my picture, not who's in it.

1/13
f/4.0
70mm
ISO 1000
No Flash

The one thing that jumps out at me is I should've closed the aperture a little more to get both of them in focus.

Again, there I go with a slow shutter speed. The stabilization is on, and I read with this lens, it's suppose to help for 4 more stops, but I haven't gotten my brain wrapped around exactly what that means yet.

But wait! If I needed to close the aperture, that means I would've had to slow down the shutter even more, or pump up the ISO. Lots to learn, lots to learn. I better get a handle on that flash thing next. Ha!

I'd let the flash do the work in this type of setting. I just had my son's Bday party and it wasn't worth missing a shot or loosing depth of field in order to go without a flash. Once you get the flash settings down it's good to use it as a deflault unless you are lucky enough to get good indoor lighting.

Here's one where I just let the flash do it's thing. I really hate not knowing what it's doing, ya know?

My homework tonight... Read the chapter on flash settings and see if I can make any sense of it!

First off, the "Helps for 4 more stops" on vibration reduction. What that means is if you take the minimum shutter speed that you would normally use handheld (as is the case with this photo - 1/13 for your f4.0) you can technically close your aperture 4 add'l stops to around f8. This will bring your shutter speed well below what would be considered normal for handheld - probably around half a second. This is around where I think the VR 4-stop rule really doesn't hold water because there is little it can do to prevent camera movement across that span of time. Where it really plays, for me at least, is with longer lenses. If I'm shooting with my 28-300 at full extension at an indoor concert I've successfully shot at 1/60 and 1/30 with the VR on.

As for the flash, I can't help you with that as I tend not to use it at all, and when I'm shooting indoors at family events it's usually with my point and shoot. The on-board flash is useful, but can definitely be a bit jarring. If you are going to be using it fairly regularly for family events and photos you are probably better off with an external flash that will allow you to bounce and diffuse the light. It's going to give you a softer, more natural look to the photo. Truth be told, I don't see much "wrong" with the attached photo from an exposure point of view. Light is a bit harsh, as the young one seems to be attesting to, but it would appear that the TTL (thru the lens) metering worked properly. There are definitely adjustments you can make to make it work better with your particular situation, but a speedlight with an angled diffuser would likely have given you more the effect you're looking for.

Thanks! That's some math I can grasp, and I'm with you, there's no way that lens could stabilize my caffeine induced body for half a second. Unless there's a $30,000 gyroscope inside that $400 lens.

Well, maybe I'll get to go outside today and take some pictures! But right now, the sun is not up yet and I've been busy in the barn. Lacking a real tripod yet, I did the next best thing. I made one!

Grabbed one of my speaker tripods, rated for 110 pounds... Figured that'd be enough to hold the camera. Modified the top cap, and there we go! Instant camera tripod.



So, back to Bugs and Lola...

I did grab another light and pointed it from the bottom/forward a bit. With all the little halogen flood lights I have on the ceiling pointing at them from the front, and the back. There is no lighting pointing directly at the tree.

Camera on the tripod.
VR Off.
ISO 100
1/3 second shutter
f/4.0
70mm (I'm starting to notice the majority of my pictures are at 70mm. Maybe I need to get outside.)

I also found I had long exposure NR on. Not sure at what speed that kicks in, but I shut it off.

The camera on Manual, the release on Mup... I know there's another way to do this, but I couldn't remember. So, I hit the shutter button, the mirror went up, I walked away, and 30 seconds later when the Mup timed out, it took the picture.

Finally, here's the picture, and I can live with it. If I zoom in 100% I can make out the individual pieces of dust on their arm!

I know my histogram is suppose to look like this:


What the heck is this one?



I'm out in the field right now having fun. (literally in the field) I'll read up on that when I get back.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

I'm back! Soaking wet. Not that it rained, but I laid down on the wet muddy ground more than a few times. All to (try and) get that shot!

The train shots were a dud, so I'm going to go back out and try again shortly. It's such a nasty looking day out. Dull and colorless. Oh well, I'm trying!

My wife's favorite plant, the Hen and Chicks. ...or if you're from down south, Hen and Biddies.


A lonely drop I found while walking in the field.


I managed to find a little bit of color outside!


Through a little computer manipulation, one can turn a dismal day into a complete dreadful day.


Time to get back outside!

Giants are on, so I'm running away from the computer and over to the TV. One quick recommendation. You seem to be shooting at the extreme of the lens - max focal length and minimum aperture. Many lenses can be a little "soft" in that spot. Try bringing the aperture up above 5.6 and shoot some stuff. Or play with a couple different apertures with the same subject and focal length and see if and where you see a difference.

Thanks! I had just read this lens likes f/8 over the entire range so that's what I'm out doing now.

Well, right after I finish stalking the train tracks that is.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

Back, and dried off!

The train stalking was a disaster. I'll have to go back out there on a weekday when they run every fifteen minutes like clockwork. They seem to be running every hour or so today. That makes for some LONG waiting. I'm trying to get a train with motion blur... That's tough, and I'm definitely going to need lots of practice! I sped up the shutter speed a tad and waited for the next train, but alas, it's been 2 hours and still no train. Here's the best I could come up with today.



Here's my way over the top post processed photo, but I like it in an artsy fartsy kind of way.



I do believe this is probably the last of any color outside for miles around. At F/8 and 42mm, I do believe it is a lot sharper.


Another at F/8 and 42mm, I call it Hanging On for Hope

Nice angle and composition on the second train shot. You're a bit over the top with the ISO and shutter speed. Around 1/500th will stop the train giving you a lot of room to lower your ISO and increase your f stop to f8-f11 depending on the DoF desired. Great job, keep shooting! Every outing we learn a little more!

I noticed all that after the fact. I was sitting there playing with the buttons and dials and whatnot because the last train was a complete blur, when out of no where, this train shows up! So I jumped up and got ready!

Here's a quick screen grab of the original...



So I'm out trying to learn the camera, then I come inside and try to learn Lightroom. I'm nuts!