What am I doing right and wrong?

Maxie

Senior Member
It's nice to have a place to go with experts that can give advice to those that are new at all of this. Here are a few photos that I've taken and I would like to know what I'm doing right and wrong. I've been using the "Auto" setting mostly, because I don't know what I'm doing. These shots were taken with a Nikon D3100 and a Nikkor 55-200mm lens.

I am most interested in settings. I'm trying to get away from using the auto settings. I'm still learning. Here are some photo's of my two cats. They are good subjects, I just need to work on my part. I haven't read the "Learning Photography" forum section yet. Which is next on my agenda of things to do.

Don't hold back on what I'm doing wrong, lol.


http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/305961_3603026729081_395106156_n.jpg

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/16123_3606942506973_174823399_n.jpg

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/3505_3623347917098_1032779611_n.jpg
 
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fotojack

Senior Member
Here are a few??? Maxie, I counted a dozen shots posted! A dozen is not a few! 3 or 4 is a few! :)

You say you're most interested in settings. Well....I suggest you read the manual that came with your camera. All the settings are in there.

OK, now....on to what I believe you're doing wrong:

You're trying to rush things. Photography has a learning curve to it, and it doesn't happen overnight, believe me! It takes patience, lots of reading, lots of trial and error, and TONS of practice. A lot of us in here have 20, 30, 40 years of experience...and we're STILL learning!

Your camera has P, A, S, M. In order, that's Program, Aperture, Shutter and Manual. It also has Auto. You want to get away from Auto. I say stick to Auto....but look in your view finder at that the settings are telling you. If you have to, write down the settings for each picture you take. That will help you understand what the camera is selecting so you can apply those settings to the other PASM settings when the time comes.
Most of us in here will tell you that they use Aperture Mode when shooting. Aperture Mode is used for subjects that are stationary....like a statue or a field of flowers or a portrait shot of someone. Shutter Mode is used for anything that has movement.
It's all in your manual, Maxie. You just have to put the effort in and read it :)

You could look up video tutorials on Google and You Tube, too, if that would help you visualize things better. :)
 

Maxie

Senior Member
I sincerely wish to thank you for taking the time replying and will follow your advice. I guess I'll see you all in a few days.

Thank you.

Max
 
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Maxie

Senior Member
Most of us in here will tell you that they use Aperture Mode when shooting. Aperture Mode is used for subjects that are stationary....like a statue or a field of flowers or a portrait shot of someone. Shutter Mode is used for anything that has movement.
:)

btw, this section of your post was most helpful. That is, where I'm at right now in my learning curve.

tkx

Max
 

KWJams

Senior Member
My advice is to take Jack's advice and go to work schooling yourself on those fundamentals.

The fundamentals are the foundation. Without having a good grasp on them your camera in Auto mode is just a point and shoot camera --- that is heavier and cost a lot more.

Learn composition basics and the rule of thirds.

Your shots show motion blur in several from not understanding the fundamentals of shutter speed.

The composition fails to tell a story which is the goal of a great shot. Why is the cat jumping? Is it jumping to catch something or jumping because something is trying to catch it?
 

fotojack

Senior Member
I sincerely wish to thank you for taking the time replying and will follow your advice. I guess I'll see you all in a few days.

Thank you.

Max

Maxie, I hope I didn't come across as too harsh, but the truth of the matter is, photography takes time. Like Ken said, it's just an expensive Point & Shoot camera if it's always in Auto. If you really want to go beyond that, it takes time and patience and a lot of practice and trial and error. We don't hold your hand here. All we can do is point the way, but the rest is up to you. Don't give up, though. Keep at it, and YOU will be the beneficiary of all your hard work and perseverance! :)
 

Maxie

Senior Member
Maxie, I hope I didn't come across as too harsh, but the truth of the matter is, photography takes time. Like Ken said, it's just an expensive Point & Shoot camera if it's always in Auto. If you really want to go beyond that, it takes time and patience and a lot of practice and trial and error. We don't hold your hand here. All we can do is point the way, but the rest is up to you. Don't give up, though. Keep at it, and YOU will be the beneficiary of all your hard work and perseverance! :)

Not at all. I thought it was good advice and I was being a bit lazy. I was talking with a friend and was commenting on what it took to learn this when it was film only cameras and how expensive that would have been. Now, you know almost right away what the shot looks like without the expense of getting the film developed.

Thanks again.

Max
 

fotojack

Senior Member
Well good! I'm glad you have the right attitude about it. :) Now, if you could just finish off your profile.....maybe even a picture of yourself as your avatar, that would be great. :) We really do have fun here while we're learning and helping each other. :)
 

Tami Jo

Senior Member
Welcome Maxie! You are truly going to love your new Nikon. Learning all of the features and functions takes time. Enjoy the process. Ask for help when you are having a difficult time with something. Part of the joy is found in discovering what works and what doesn't It can also be frustrating too. We all are at different levels of Photography here but surely regardless of our experiences can relate to where you are in your photography journey. Feeling lost and overwhelmed is common in those beginning stages. My advice to you is read your manual. I know it's boring, read it several times. Because it will really help you later on. Watch some youtube videos for your model of camera. It will help you become more familiar and comfortable with your new camera. Go through all the posts here for your model of camera You are sure to pick up some helpful information to assist you. http://nikonites.com/d3100/ Pick up a few books to help you. There are a sea of great ones out there. But most of all keep shooting. We learn from our mistakes. You have a cute cat in which to practice shooting. You will soon learn what works best to capture both those still moments and those rapid movements too.
 

Maxie

Senior Member
All great advice, I wish to thank everyone that has replied here. I'm learning so much. I'm still reading up from the CD that came with the Nikon D3100 camera.

I've been focusing on parts of it right now. Single P & S settings for now. Which, I think I'll learn better that way. I started with the "P" setting and then the "S" setting and played around with that with the 55-200mm lens. I've notices that using the "S" setting that if I go with the faster setting it gets a bit grainy at distance. Like I said before, I like taking photo's of planes at altitude.
I was going between 2500 and 4000. I'm assuming there is a balance that I'm not getting just yet that will reduce the graininess.

Also, taking photo's of the cat's playing in the yard had been SO MUCH better after reading the book. If all else fails, read the directions, lol.

I'm a work in progress right now...

Max
 
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Maxie

Senior Member
I just sold the 55-200mm Nikkor lens. Not sure what I'm going to replace it with just yet. I really would like to get the 150-500mm Sigma or the 400mm Sigma lens. But, I might need to settle for the 170-300 Nikkor lens. Time will tell, or should I say ebay will tell, lol. I guess I'll be without a zoom lens for a while until I find a replacement and will be using the 18-55mm Nikon lens.

This might be good for learning the camera a little better until I get another zoom lens. Also, I will be in search of a 18-105mm lens, which seems to be a good all around lens for my needs, after looking at my mothers D90 with the same lens.

I REALLY like the Sigma 150-500 lens. WoW, what a good looking lens!

Once again, you guys have been most helpful.

Max
 

fotojack

Senior Member
All great advice, I wish to thank everyone that has replied here. I'm learning so much. I'm still reading up from the CD that came with the Nikon D3100 camera.

I've been focusing on parts of it right now. Single P & S settings for now. Which, I think I'll learn better that way. I started with the "P" setting and then the "S" setting and played around with that with the 55-200mm lens. I've notices that using the "S" setting that if I go with the faster setting it gets a bit grainy at distance. Like I said before, I like taking photo's of planes at altitude.
I was going between 2500 and 4000. I'm assuming there is a balance that I'm not getting just yet that will reduce the graininess.

Also, taking photo's of the cat's playing in the yard had been SO MUCH better after reading the book. If all else fails, read the directions, lol.

I'm a work in progress right now...

Max

The P setting means you can put the settings you want into the camera for that setting. The S setting is for shooting moving objects.

During broad daylight, set the ISO to Auto or better yet, take Auto ISO off and set it to ISO 100.....or 200 if that's as low as your camera will go.

The brighter the day (more light) the lower the ISO. The darker it is, the higher the ISO (to a certain degree). :) The triangle of ISO, Shutter and Aperture all work together to produce a photo.
 

Maxie

Senior Member
Correct me if I'm wrong here, but as I understand it, the ISO is a combination of both the aperture and the shutter? If so, is there a setting where you can adjust them independently on the D3100?
 

Dave_W

The Dude
No, the ISO has nothing really to do with either of those two. The ISO is the sensitivity of your sensor. When you have very little light you need your sensor to be extra sensitive to what little light is coming in, hence a high ISO. And the opposite when you have lots of light you use a low ISO. As for noise and high ISO, think of how your stereo works when you crank up the volume but have no music playing you will hear a buzz and crackle. Same with your ISO on your camera, when you turn it up high for low light situations you get that same buzz and crackle, only instead of hearing the noise, you see it in your photos in the from of visual noise.
 

Sambr

Senior Member
THis might help....

SO (I.S.O.)
is the abbreviation for the International Organization of Standardization, a governing body based in Europe that provides the standards for a wide variety of subjects.For photographers the key standard is Film Speed ratings. In the past this was known as ASA or the American Standards Association (Now discontinued and replaced by the American National Standards Institute or ANSI), and you could buy your films in ASA 50, 100, 200, 400, 800 and 1600. There were specialist films that would go higher or use infra-red although these were generally known as the standard speeds.Most decent cameras now have interchangeable ISO settings which is especially useful for digital photography because, as discussed in the previous chapter, you can change the ISO setting for every shot you take without the need to change film.So what ARE the settings and how do they affect your photos?The standard I.S.O that most people use everyday, giving accurate colour rendition and "clean" noise-free images is 100 I.S.O.If your camera is able to set a lower ISO of 50 or less, you will notice that the images become a little more saturated in their colours. You won't see too much difference in quality like you do with 50 I.S.O. Slide film, but a slow film speed or I.S.O. with digital photography has its benefits nonetheless.50 I.S.O or lessThere have been occasions when I have come across a particularly bright scene such as a sunny, white sandy beach or a sun kissed bleach-white property on a sunny day where I simply have too much light all around me.I am already on the fastest shutter speed that the camera will allow and the smallest aperture that I wish to use (N.B. I never try to go smaller than F16 or F22 otherwise the image quality can start to deteriorate, or I may wish to create some depth of field with an aperture of say F5.6). By reducing the I.S.O. to the lowest, I can maybe save a few shots whilst enhancing the colours.Also when shooting images that I want to be rich in colour such as a beach scene with blue skies and deep blue water for a holiday magazine, I use the lowest ISO possible (normally 50) coupled with a polarizer filter.You may also want to purposely slow down the shutter speed for some creative shots. If you read enough photography magazines you will have undoubtedly seen images of waterfalls with milky smooth water and pin sharp rocks and foliage?The milky water is created by a very slow shutter speed (normally a matter of seconds), which can sometimes only be achieved with the help of the smallest aperture and lowest ISO setting (note, using a Neutral Density filter will also allow super long exposures during the day to get the milky water effect as in two of the shots of the sea on this page).The small aperture and low ISO block most of the light which means you need to compensate with a long shutter speed which in effect causes the flowing water to "blur" itself onto the sensor. Obviously when doing this kind of shot a tripod is essential.Standard I.S.O - 100As I mentioned earlier, this is the industry standard for most situations and subjects. Whether you shoot weddings, portraits, studio or commercial, 100 I.S.O. will do just fine and create nice, clean colourful images across the board.High I.S.O - 400 and aboveBeing quite a perfectionist myself, as I think most photographers are, I like to produce the cleanest and noise free images as possible. I also like bold, colourful images.Unfortunately, there are some times when you just have to use higher I.S.O.'s in order to get the shots you need:
 

Maxie

Senior Member
The P setting means you can put the settings you want into the camera for that setting. The S setting is for shooting moving objects.

During broad daylight, set the ISO to Auto or better yet, take Auto ISO off and set it to ISO 100.....or 200 if that's as low as your camera will go.

The brighter the day (more light) the lower the ISO. The darker it is, the higher the ISO (to a certain degree). :) The triangle of ISO, Shutter and Aperture all work together to produce a photo.

Jack, I just so happened to pick those two settings to work with today after reading the manual. Therefore, limiting myself to only two settings to work with. Switching between the cats, high flying planes and changing the settings as needed.

I had much better luck with the cat photos then the plane photos. I need to work on the high altitude plane settings. But, the cat settings turned out so much better. Amazingly better. I was very impressed with the difference in quality.
 

Eye-level

Banned
The four major functions of a (digital) camera that make up a snap...aperture, shutter speed, ISO, and white balance. The light and the photographer decides what they should be to get the desired effect.
 
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