Basically, it's just adjusting the image to get "what you want" (there are no standards as far as taste) by changing the gamma levels, depth of blacks, midtone contrast, saturation, blend between different exposures, when working with 3 or 5 exposures HDR.
Now I don't know how simple this is, but to compare it with the CS5 image<adjustment<highlights-shadows would be about the closest thing I can think of. If you ever tried to play with this adjustment, it's about the closest thing to tone mapping I can think of.
Hope this helped a little.
Now, how to do it, just get in there and experiment with "Photomatix" or in CS5 the tone mapping filters. You'll have to find the balance between the effect you're after and good taste...