Shots with poor contrast

Some of my recent vacation pics came out just right (to my untrained eye) in terms of contrast, colour etc, while other seemed a bit washed out ( like the one below)... but they came to life if I cheated with a little software tweak ( eg auto contrast in Picassa).

Why is that happening (ie some shots need no constrast adjustment, others do , even for similar scenes). How does one correct for it when taking the shot?

I suspect one way is selective use of filters. I currently have only a basic filter on the the lense ( Nikon 72 mm NC), but is one really expected to changes filters that often when dozens of vacation pics?? Or is the issue not related to filters at all?

Original shot:


Tweaked with additional s/w contrast:

but they came to life if I cheated with a little software tweak ( eg auto contrast in Picassa)

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For at least the MILLIONTH TIME on this forum. . . post processing is NOT cheating! Shoot raw and use a good editing program like Lightroom and you'll be much happier with your photos.

What was light metering set at and make sure "active D" lighting is off.

What mode do you shoot in...And as for "cheating" as you call it you have to enhance your images as was done with film in the labs..

I would probably Process it with a different crop and more contrast...Something like this...

Typical shooting modes: Outside - stationary objects, people, etc. - Aperture Mode - Auto ISO
Outside - moving objects, cars, boats, runners, etc. - Shutter Mode - Auto ISO
White Balance: set according to weather conditions - sunny, cloudy, etc.
Do you use a tripod? Monopod? Hand held? These are decisions YOU have to make.

Rather than go on and on about what settings to choose, take a peek in your manual. It's all in there.

I took the liberty of tweaking your shot. Hope you don't mind. It's just to show you what can be done with shots you're not totally happy with straight out of the camera. I used Capture NX2 in this instance. Like Helene says, Lightroom would be better.

Can I play too?

This is just a little tweaking in Aperture 3.

Increased contrast, decreased exposure, increased saturation, vibrancy and definition.

I also straightened it and cropped to fit the level.

Hope you like it.

Thanks for all the good info!

ohkphoto said:

For at least the MILLIONTH TIME on this forum. . . post processing is NOT cheating! Shoot raw and use a good editing program like Lightroom and you'll be much happier with your photos.

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I guess 'cheating' was poor choice of words!! Yes, there is an art and sceince and a need for post-processing. What I was trying to say was, that I didnt undnerstand (its a learning curve) why , out of the camera, seemingly similar scenes, under similar conditions, turned out with great contrast in some cases and washed out in others. Clearly other variables were at play that I did not appreciate.

cnyram said:

What was light metering set at and make sure "active D" lighting is off.

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As it was my first time out, I shot most everything in Auto (without flash). I only used Shutter fo the motorbike shots. As to Active D, ood question. I didnt touch that setting so whatever the default setting was is what I used. Not sure if that is ON or OFF ; Could not find any reference to the default (or a description of the feature) in the manual : http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/dslr/D5100_EN.pdf

fotojack said:

Do you use a tripod? Monopod? Hand held? These are decisions YOU have to make. ... Rather than go on and on about what settings to choose, take a peek in your manual. It's all in there.

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All my shots were hand-held and Auto ISO. Another read of the manual, and a few more years under my belt, I'll be just fine!

I believe the default setting is on for active D. I would turn it off, it tends to produce the problem you are having if it is used in the wrong situation. I have used it in less than 1% of my shots, so it is always off.

Auto ISO is not a good option in my book, by using this setting I think you can end up with some noisy images...

You can change it in the menu to ISO 200

I may be off base here -- but my novice rule of thumb is to take a shot and check the "Histrogram" to see how close it is to my way of understanding the 3 point rule.
1. ISO
2. Aperture
3. Shutter speed.

If the histrogram is bumping into either end of the scale then I make adjustments from there.
Focus, depth of field, composition and stuff like that are after thoughts.

If those main fundamentals are followed, then there isn't much post processing needed.

P.S. That shot screams for a circular polarizer filter.

KWJams said:

P.S. That shot screams for a circular polarizer filter.

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I am using the Nikon 72mm NC neutral contrast filter. Is that circular or linear? To be honest, I dont even if know if its polarized. The description on the Nikon prodcut site and Nikon store dont say much other than "These filters serve as lens protectors and do not affect color balance . Multilayer coating diminishes internal reflections and improves color rendition."

No, That is not a polarizing filter.

Mediaman09 said:

I am using the Nikon 72mm NC neutral contrast filter. Is that circular or linear? To be honest, I dont even if know if its polarized."

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Look carefully at the plug end. If one blade is wider than the other one, it is an American polarized one.

Hope this helps.