Dark edge on the photo and exposure setting

W

wordlesstu

Senior Member
Hi everyone,

I have two questions. I used Nikon D750 to shoot and I use lens hood attached to my lens. However, there are times the photo shows a dark edge in the corner of the photo. Can anyone advise what cause the dark edge?

1. Dark Edge in the corner of the photo

YT_20181013_0034.jpg

2. No dark edge

YT_20181013_0025.jpg


The other issue I have is the exposure. I was shooting in a bright day light and used matrix metering mode. But the background is over exposed. Can any one provide tips for getting the right exposure for both the subject and background?

1. Situation 1: Background overexposed

YT_20181013_0105.jpg

2. Situation 2: Subject underexposed but background is proper exposed.

YT_20181013_0194.jpg


Your feedback is appreciated. Thank you!
 
Last edited:
4

480sparky

Senior Member
As for the dark corners, it's the natural physical vignetting of the lens.

Exposure issues are the bright background fooling the meter. Learn how to recognize backlit scenes and manually adjust exposure.
 
hark

hark

Administrator
Staff member
Super Mod
If you're using Lightroom or Camera RAW, are you selecting your lens profile? That helps alleviate vignetting and corrects some distortion. I use center weighted metering which I find is more accurate for the subjects I shoot. When I used Matrix metering, I had to override the metering with the +/- much more than I do with center weighted metering.
 
B

Bikerbrent

Senior Member
Your last two photos are a limitation of any camera. It is called exposure dynamic range. You may be able to help this in post processing, or in the case of the last photo, a fill flash could help it greatly. High dynamic range photograph would be another approach, but would not work with moving subjects per your examples.
 
W

wordlesstu

Senior Member
Hi,
Thank you for for your response. I am using Lightroom but I don't know how to select lens profile to correct lens distortion. I will look into it. I will try weighted metering next time. Thank you!

hark said:
If you're using Lightroom or Camera RAW, are you selecting your lens profile? That helps alleviate vignetting and corrects some distortion. I use center weighted metering which I find is more accurate for the subjects I shoot. When I used Matrix metering, I had to override the metering with the +/- much more than I do with center weighted metering.
Click to expand...
 
W

wordlesstu

Senior Member
Hi,

Thank you for your response. It is very helpful to know that is my limitation of my camera so I can look into post processing method. Thank you.Oz

Bikerbrent said:
Your last two photos are a limitation of any camera. It is called exposure dynamic range. You may be able to help this in post processing, or in the case of the last photo, a fill flash could help it greatly. High dynamic range photograph would be another approach, but would not work with moving subjects per your examples.
Click to expand...
 
hark

hark

Administrator
Staff member
Super Mod
wordlesstu said:
Hi,
Thank you for for your response. I am using Lightroom but I don't know how to select lens profile to correct lens distortion. I will look into it. I will try weighted metering next time. Thank you!
Click to expand...

It looks like you are using the Nikon 24-120mm lens. Here is an example within Adobe Camera RAW. Sorry...I tried to find my way around Lightroom but couldn't. The same tools are available in ACR as are in LR. It's the layout that is different. You should be able to find the lens profile within LR somewhere. Maybe someone who is familiar with Lightroom can point it out for you.

The ONLY difference between these 2 images is the lens profile is not checked in one but is checked in the other. The histogram is slightly different between both images simply because of this. In the image where the profile wasn't selected, the corners are darker than in the one where it is. If you are familiar with Photoshop, you should try having both of these images open and go back and forth between them. You will see a slight change in perspective with the car itself.

OR...if you can right click each image here and open both in new windows, go back and forth between them. You should be able to see the shift in perspective when you do. It's as if the car pops when you toggle back and forth between images.

There is a slight vignette in the first image which isn't visible in the second. The only difference between these photos is the lens profile is either checked or unchecked.

No Profile Correction.jpg


Profile Correction.jpg
 
LouCioccio

LouCioccio

Senior Member
On situation #2 see what the metering was set to. Depending what you want to achieve if its the baton twirlers then change the metering to center weight or spot. As others have suggested you can use software an example is layers one layer for the baton twirlers exposed properly with levels , curves or even in RAW; naturally the background is blown. The second layer exposed background like you already have and then a mask to paint in the twirlers.
You can find other ways but the best is in camera and I realize this is a moving scene.
This is one way of doing it right. Here it is doing it the levels mask.
Lou Cioccio

level mask copy.jpg
 
Last edited:
W

wordlesstu

Senior Member
Hi-

Wow! Thank you for the amazing edit! That is super cool!

LouCioccio said:
On situation #2 see what the metering was set to. Depending what you want to achieve if its the baton twirlers then change the metering to center weight or spot. As others have suggested you can use software an example is layers one layer for the baton twirlers exposed properly with levels , curves or even in RAW; naturally the background is blown. The second layer exposed background like you already have and then a mask to paint in the twirlers.
You can find other ways but the best is in camera and I realize this is a moving scene.
This is one way of doing it right. Here it is doing it the levels mask.
Lou Cioccio

View attachment 297952
Click to expand...
 
W

wordlesstu

Senior Member
Hi!
Thank you so much for your thorough explanation. Yes, I am using the Nikon 24-120mm lens! And thank you for taking time writing such detail explanation. I will look into it and try to play with it myself.

:cheerful: Thank you!


hark said:
It looks like you are using the Nikon 24-120mm lens. Here is an example within Adobe Camera RAW. Sorry...I tried to find my way around Lightroom but couldn't. The same tools are available in ACR as are in LR. It's the layout that is different. You should be able to find the lens profile within LR somewhere. Maybe someone who is familiar with Lightroom can point it out for you.

The ONLY difference between these 2 images is the lens profile is not checked in one but is checked in the other. The histogram is slightly different between both images simply because of this. In the image where the profile wasn't selected, the corners are darker than in the one where it is. If you are familiar with Photoshop, you should try having both of these images open and go back and forth between them. You will see a slight change in perspective with the car itself.

OR...if you can right click each image here and open both in new windows, go back and forth between them. You should be able to see the shift in perspective when you do. It's as if the car pops when you toggle back and forth between images.

There is a slight vignette in the first image which isn't visible in the second. The only difference between these photos is the lens profile is either checked or unchecked.

View attachment 297950

View attachment 297951
Click to expand...
 
T

Texas

Senior Member
"What is DXO?"

It is a software product.

I use it, like it better than fumbling around with ACR/LR/PS combos.

"DxO PhotoLab, a multiple award-winning software first launched 13 years ago, is now the gold standard in RAW photo editing."
 
Top