your instant focus mode?

alaios

Senior Member
Hi all,
for the times you see a great fleeting moment and you wish you had already shoot, which would be your best auto focus mode?
We talk about human based events (grandpa playing with grandchildred in a wedding). In the past I was trying to raise my camera to frame through the viewfinder but I found that most of the time people will notice me and become more "posed". I am talking for times when there is no time to frame or move your focus point.
I am thinking for something like Auto focus with all points and givin priority to faces.

Then I would be able to raise camera and shoot without looking at viewfinder.

What would you do different?
Regards
Alex
 

SkvLTD

Senior Member
Depends on how you shoot, I prefer (on 600, but camera is irrelevant to your question) single, all AF points, release whenever I fully press in button vs focus lock/beep. This way I just stagger the shutter button until I know both I and my subject are exactly in position and focus for the shot.

Now this part is FAR more crucial to your quest - you MUST know your lens/zoom range's frame at every zoom level based on where you point your camera with your hand. Only good way to practice is to look through the VF until you get used to the field of view itself, then perhaps use a flash with the red laser assist to help you memorize where the center of the frame will be based on where you point without looking. Rest is just dumb practice.

I still get occasional head cuts here and there, but on average I have this blind-shooting pretty down. Feel free to look at party shots on my site - Recent Work - Skvora Limited Photography since probably 95% of those were shot blind.
 

alaios

Senior Member
I only use two primes so I know exactly their frame and I am quite good in composition as well.
Question being always in how fast focus can lock and shoot and if are settings to help further with that
Alex
 

SkvLTD

Senior Member
Well with 750's AF itself and assuming at least 1.8G level primes, there should be 0 problems with any kind of AF point selection. You'd always get the fastest lock from single or continuous 5-points, but it's almost negligible to accidentally focusing on the wrong subject.

Again, me with 24-85 kit and on 600 seldom have any trouble landing either sneak or flash-fast drive-by shots at low light events.
 
I shoot the D750 and I like Bird in Flight so fast accurate focusing is a must. Single point is the only way I focus no matter what I shoot. I also use Back Button Focus so I have single and continuous modes just by holding the BBF button or not. The D750 tracks focus so very fast no matter what lens you use.

In case you do not use BBF or know about it here is a quick guide.

Back Button Focus is a great tool for so many photographers and is something I think everyone should try at least once. Below are a few sites that talk about the how and why of Back Button Focus.

Benefits of Using the AF-ON Button for Autofocus by Nikon USA


BACK BUTTON FOCUSING – EASIER THAN YOU THINK! by Improve Photography


Here is a good YouTube video that goes over the why and how of Back Button Focusing.

You can do a search of the forum on "Back Button Focus" or BBF and see the many threads that have been created on this subject.

Try it, You will like it.






 

Horoscope Fish

Senior Member
Hi all,
for the times you see a great fleeting moment and you wish you had already shoot, which would be your best auto focus mode?
We talk about human based events (grandpa playing with grandchildred in a wedding). In the past I was trying to raise my camera to frame through the viewfinder but I found that most of the time people will notice me and become more "posed". I am talking for times when there is no time to frame or move your focus point.
I am thinking for something like Auto focus with all points and givin priority to faces.

Then I would be able to raise camera and shoot without looking at viewfinder.

What would you do different?
Regards
Alex
I tend to use AF-C/Group for most things with my D750 and that would include events like you're describing. I can shoot from the hip if I have to but I prefer not to do that if possible. If I was going to go that route, I'd want to use small enough aperture to get a good depth of field, ISO be damned. Noise I have a shot at correcting in post' but a blurred shot is usually a wasted shot.

When shooting people/group events I tend to do a lot of unnecessary shooting at the start, just so people get used to there being a camera around and someone taking photos. After a while the novelty of having their picture taken will wear off and the tendency to "pose" for shots stops of it's own accord. Once that happens then I start getting the really good, relaxed shots.
 
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TreySpooner

Senior Member
I use the flippy screen. If the camera isn't up to your eye, most people assume you're not taking a photo. Chest or waist height and the screen usually get me by.
 
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