Shooting in S mode; getting rid of "noise"?

TheWired

New member
Hi everyone!

I've been able to do some great shots of scenery using the scene mode (always super clean and detailed), recently learned to shoot fireworks using the bulb function (not easy >,<), and even shooting single color / B&W photos.
However, I'm still a newbie to the Nikon D750 and have come across something I don't understand. I work with children and have had to take some photos a few times this past year but them always moving does not always make the task easy!

Basically, I would like to take photos of moving targets and get the "freeze" effect without having any blur.
I have tried auto and scene modes; the image is always very "clear" (detailed?) but the camera does not always shoot fast enough (leading to blurred motion images?).

I have recently tried shooting in S mode (that's shutter speed priority, right?) and got a disappointing surprise after my shooting session.
In a nutshell, all of the shots that I have taken gave me exactly what I wanted: absolutely no blur in any of the photos even while children were running around like crazy or jumping from rocks. That was the great part.

Sadly, all images shot that day have some sort of "noise"; I'm not sure how to explain it, it's almost like there is a "layer of very thin moiré" in all images. It wasn't super noticeable on a small / low resolution monitor (nor on the camera's preview screen) but I saw it right away when I got home and viewed images in 1440p.

Basically, the settings I used for shooting were: 1/4000, F4 and auto ISO sensitivity control was turned on. Other stuff displayed on my screen says HDR was off, white balance is auto, picture control is set to standard, Acting D lightning (I don't even know what that is :S) is off, High ISO NR is normal and image area is set to FX for largest area.
I tried a few shots before with manual iso (12800, high 0.3, high 0.7, high 1/2) but the images were too bright; I didn't have a lot of time to configure my camera so I just put it on iso AUTO.

I'm guessing my shutter speed / F values are wrong?
Would someone be kind enough to explain to me a few basic things about the S mode?

1) How can I get rid of that "noise" effect on my next shots? (I usually shoot RAW+JPG, is it possible to get rid of it by post processing the RAW files with Photoshop or some other program?)
2) What are "white balance", "acting D lightning" and "picture control" used for? I have read the manual but white balance and D lighting is a bit hard to grasp since I've never used either. Should I have picked "portrait" in picture control instead of standard?
3) Could someone explain to me how the shutter speed and F values work? I'm guessing the higher the value (like 1/4000) means that the shutter is super fast and the lower the value (1" and below) means that the shutter will go super slow. How does that work with F values and lighting? Damn, this is making me crazy XD
4) Should I use HDR for this kind of shooting?

Thanks for taking the time to read; any help is greatly appreciated!
 

Dawg Pics

Senior Member
Anybody responding will probably want to see an image. Can you attach one to a post?

I can't answer all of your questions but "white balance" adjusts the light temperature to prevent a color cast. If set incorrectly, you can end up with a blue, green or yellow cast.
"Active D Lighting" is whatever process the camera does to help preserve shadow and highlight details. According, to my manual, it works only in matrix metering mode.
 
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480sparky

Senior Member
Shooting mode has nothing to do with noise. It's all about the ISO used.

As for your 3 questions:
1. Do noise reduction in post.
2. White balance means something that is white is rendered white in the final image. Not with an off-color tint or tinge. Active D-lighting is an attempt to stretch the dynamic range of the camera sensor. Picture control is a slight modification of basic camera settings such as sharpness, color balance, tint, etc.
3. But Bryon Peterson's book Understanding Exposure.
4. By it's unofficial definition, HDR really cannot be used for moving subjects and it requires at least two separate and distinct exposures.
 
1/4000 is probably Way to fast. Birds in flight can be at 1/1500 or so and kids probably aren't moving near that fast. Try it around 1/500 or so to start and then go from there. In auto ISO set the maximum at around 3200 to start with and work your way from there. Unless you are trying to shoot in the dark that should do well for you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

singlerosa_RIP

Senior Member
I shoot totally manual because I started out in film with a manual camera and I'm used to manual. The only time I use Auto ISO is when the light is changing (sun to shade, etc.) and even then I don't mind adjusting on the fly (no Auto ISO).
Agree that shutter speed is way too high.

Shoot RAW, forget Active D and all the other add-on crap. Watch some youtube videos on how to set your camera up/use it or buy a user guide by Thom Hogan or Darrell Young to learn how to use your gear.
 

Blacktop

Senior Member


Picture one (monkey) was shot with scene mode

http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/emailbox911/DSC_4605_zpsacjaqucr.jpg~original

Picture two was shot using S mode with settings mentioned above. Not sure if you can see how grainy it is (can you zoom at all?)

http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/xx287/emailbox911/DSC_5116_zpst5evdynd.jpg~original


Can't seem to link the second photo properly; hope it works

As mentioned before, noise is caused by ISO. The higher the ISO more the noise. Read up about the exposure triangle and see how ISO, shutter speed and f/stop relate to each other.
Without understanding this, you will not understand why your shots turn out the way they do.
 

aroy

Senior Member
Shoot RAW
Switch off - NR, WB, Distortion etc. They can be changed in RAW processing and slow the camera due to extra processing load.

Set Base ISO to 100
Set Auto ISO on
Set Maximum ISO to 3200. The minimum will be the base ISO
Set Minimum speed to 1/500 or 1/1000. The maximum will be the maximum supported
Set Aperture to F4

Now shoot. The body will start with the base settings. If the light goes down it will increase the ISO till it hits the MAX. If the light goes up it will increase the shutter speed. If the light is really low and ISO is at max set, then the shutter speed will keep decreasing (or in some bodies the aperture will open up).
 

nickt

Senior Member
You've been given good advice here, but the key to all of it is to learn the basics of exposure. Specific suggestions can be given, Aroy gave a great settup. But in the end, it is best to know the relationship of shutter, aperture, and iso.

In a short time this will come easily to you and you will be able to quickly adapt your settings to changing situations. You are almost there. You have recognized that auto modes do not always produce what you need and that you must take more control of the process. You just need to learn the how shutter, aperture and iso all come together to make a good exposure. The balance can be shifted to favor one parameter over another, but there are benefits and downsides. You will learn to make quick decisions based on your needs and the amount of light. You dont have to go full manual. Shutter or Aperture priority will do fine and still give the control you need.

Shooting RAW will give you better ability to make adjustments after the shot, but I would wait a few weeks until you are comfortable with the exposure triangle. The Understanding Exposure book mentioned above is good and there is plenty of free stuff to get you started.

Try:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8T94sdiNjc

Camera Exposure: Aperture, ISO & Shutter Speed
 
It would be better if you posted the photos here so we can see the EXIF data and we don' have to go to another site.

Guidelines to adding a photo to your post.

1. Resize photo to 1000px on the long side.
2. Resolution set to 72ppi (Pixels Per Inch)

These guidelines will be good for viewing on a computer but will not be good for printing. This will help safeguard your copyright.







 

480sparky

Senior Member
DSC_4605_zpsacjaqucr.jpg



Camera Maker: NIKON CORPORATION
Camera Model: NIKON D750
Image Date: 2016-03-26 16:39:33 (no TZ)
Focal Length: 120mm (35mm equivalent: 120mm)
Aperture: ƒ/11.0
Exposure Time: 0.0025 s (1/400)
ISO equiv: 400
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No (enforced)
Orientation: Normal
Color Space: sRGB
GPS Coordinate: undefined, undefined
Software: Ver.1.01



You think ISO 400 is 'too much noise'?










DSC_5116_zpst5evdynd.jpg



Camera Maker: NIKON CORPORATION
Camera Model: NIKON D750
Image Date: 2016-03-30 12:01:53 (no TZ)
Focal Length: 24mm (35mm equivalent: 24mm)
Aperture: ƒ/20.0
Exposure Time: 0.0003 s (1/4000)
ISO equiv: 12800
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto)
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No (enforced)
Orientation: Normal
Color Space: sRGB
GPS Coordinate: undefined, undefined
Software: Ver.1.01


F/20 for shooting at 24mm is way to small, and 1/4000 is way way way too fast. You can easily shoot that at f/8 and 1/250 and get your ISO down to 125.
 
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scarrabri

Senior Member
Hi the EXIF data is showing on my Picasa photos but as soon as I upload them to this forum, then nothing lol time to call it a day I think thanks for your time and trouble ,Brian.
 
Hi the EXIF data is showing on my Picasa photos but as soon as I upload them to this forum, then nothing lol time to call it a day I think thanks for your time and trouble ,Brian.

It is matter of sizing them correctly before you upload them.

Guidelines to adding a photo to your post.

1. Resize photo to 1000px on the long side.
2. Resolution set to 72ppi (Pixels Per Inch)

These guidelines will be good for viewing on a computer but will not be good for printing. This will help safeguard your copyright.







 

TheWired

New member
Thanks a lot guys; this is all great advice. I'll try to play some more with the S function and grab one of the books from the authors mentioned. Really appreciate it!
 
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