Lens mode and Back button focusing
- Thread starter Welshy74
- Start date
I would try increasing your shutter speed or adjust your exposure compensation accordingly. I'm no pro, so if someone suggests other things, listen to them.
Do you have examples w/EXIF data we could see?
Yea, that can be a problem. I will sometimes underexpose in bright situations, which can be done several ways. I would up the shutter speed, that will freeze the action and cut down on the ambient.
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Thanks. What do you mean by cut back the ambient?
Multiple ways to cut the ambient light, which mans the sun in your situation. If the photo is bright you can adjust the shutter speed up, close down the aperture or decrease the ISO. you are already shooting at ISO 100, so nothing to do here. If you are concerned with background compression (out of focus area), then don't close down the aperture. So the first option in sports is going to be the best option. Bump the shutter speed up by 1-2 stops. I can't tell you what that would be on your camera without knowing if you use 1/2 or 1/3 stops. But normally I shoot around 1600.
I don't care for blur in my shots unless there is a rare situation or I can't prevent due the situation. So with this said I always shoot fast enough to freeze the action. Baseball is a little trickier due to the size of the ball, but with larger ball sports like rugby you can do a few other things based on the situation.
The best option is monitor the lighting and take pictures with different shutter speeds and aperture settings. I will use the grass to meter on, take a test shot with the in camera meter sitting at zero and go from there. Point your camera at the grass and adjust the shutter speed till the marker is on zero, this will give a good starting point but remember as the game goes on and the fades you have to adjust. Also on cloudy days the light is constantly changing so keep an eye on that.
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Thanks Kevin, do you mean the + / - chart we have on the camera ?
Yes, look in the viewfinder at the bottom, or start Live View and then start changing the shutter speed. You will see the slider go to one side or the other. A good starting point is for the slider to be zeroed out, but thats really a starting point. So looking through the view finder, if its on the - (minus) side then decrease your shutter speed. Take a picture, if you need to add light go towards the + side. It took me a few times to get the hang of it, so just play with it and take a picture, look at the results.
This conversation seems a little strange to me, I am certainly no expert and would like to understand the thinking behind doing this in manual mode.
If I was shooting action sports I would have the camera in S mode and set a shutter speed fast enough to freeze the action, different for different sports I guess. I would probably use Auto ISO as well with it limited to say 800 max, personal taste depends on the camera. I would then probably choose Matrix or Highlight metering
To have your camera set in manual mode for an environment where the light is constantly changing seems to be asking for over / under exposure issues. Am I missing something - it wouldn't be the first time !
If I was shooting action sports I would have the camera in S mode and set a shutter speed fast enough to freeze the action, different for different sports I guess. I would probably use Auto ISO as well with it limited to say 800 max, personal taste depends on the camera. I would then probably choose Matrix or Highlight metering
To have your camera set in manual mode for an environment where the light is constantly changing seems to be asking for over / under exposure issues. Am I missing something - it wouldn't be the first time !
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Ah that explains it.
For the auto focus to work back button or not, then the lens needs to be in auto mode. Some lenses have three choices. M, A/M and M/A.
When using M/A you can override focusing by turning the ring with immediate result.
When using A/M you must turn the focusing ring somewhat more to override preventing accidental changing the focus by touching the focusing ring.
For the auto focus to work back button or not, then the lens needs to be in auto mode. Some lenses have three choices. M, A/M and M/A.
When using M/A you can override focusing by turning the ring with immediate result.
When using A/M you must turn the focusing ring somewhat more to override preventing accidental changing the focus by touching the focusing ring.
I shoot sports in manual mode, but he was asking about the lens. On few occasions will I use Auto-ISO, thats typically changing light, if its steady then I control the ISO. I also shoot way above 800 at times. As far as metering, I dont like Matrix and not even sure what Highlight is, never heard that. I use spot metering because the subject is the primary focus and I won't metering to be done there. You have spot, center weighted and Matrix metering modes and from my experience spot and centered weighted work best.
It works for me and I shoot a lot of sports pictures with no complaints.
I keep it in manual for full control, but I wasn't going to get into that part of what I do. Just making recommendations and explaining
Another option between spot and center weighted is the metering will follow the active focus point in spot, but not in center weighted.
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Thanks, I told you I was no expert. I misread the OP first post hence went down a rat hole.
Highlight metering is a fourth option on the recent Nikon cameras, it stops you from blowing highlights, works pretty well. The D7200 certainly has this as does the D750.
Gotcha, I have old gear, LOL. I do remember hearing about the highlight metering now that you mention the new new bodies...... Dang it, might be time to upgrade.....Although I might see divorce papers if I do.
There is but thats why you are here. I promise its not that bad after things start to click with you. There is so much I still have to learn but I take things one step at a time. Exposure if the first, from there you can branch out. I had this first one in my bag, well I should say that I still do because someone will ask me questions while in the field.
I take no credit for these, just found it on the web.
Don Kuykendall_RIP
RIP :(
You started off by saying you were using BBF so if you have it set of manual focus BBF is not in use at all. M/A on the lens switches it from Manual focus to Auto Focus. You want Auto focus for sports. Using BBF you must be on AF-C then your BBF button when held is on continuous focus and when you let off the button the focus is locked. As far a exposure mode I think someone already gave you some good advice. Shutter priority, Auto ISO. then if you are shooting and they are a little to over or underexposed then use the exposure compensation to tweak the exposure. Once you set this way you should be able to shoot the entire game/match and get good results on all of them without have to miss the game/match fiddling with the camera.
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Horoscope Fish
Senior Member
BBF is Your New BFF?
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We all know what you mean, but... BBF = Back Button Focus, while BFF = Best Friend Forever.
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